I have 2003 x with only 36K on it and it gets regular maintenance(like it should ). Now i just changed the fuel filter last week because the car was surging when cold. The filter was very dirty so I poured a can of seafoam in the tank with some new fuel. last night it threw 4 code p0217 engine over temp condition and p0328 knock sensor high input bank 1. It gave me these 4 codes 2 where redundant. This happened about a year ago when my intake cracked. I bought a new one cleared the code and everything was fine until now. I was wondering if this could be from the seafoam doing its thing or do i have more serious issues?
easterly81
Not sure of what could cause the over temp condition but the knock sensor code is more than likely a result of the first problem. Plus the knock sensor will not set off the check engine light. It simply does what the name implies. It can be tripped by bad gas, bad timing or a result of a lot of things that might cause a ping in the motor that trips the sensor. Focus on fixing the first one you mentioned and I bet it will clear up the knock sensor code. Even if it doesn't, it's nothing to be concerned about unless your X is supercharged.
Just did a google and according to what I'm finding on the temp code, check your coolant levels. If they are good then have your cooling system pressure tested for leaks. If no leaks are found, replace your thermostat. I'm seeing this advice recommended a couple of times so it looks like there's a good chance that will solve your problem.
Another list of possible culprits:
Possible Causes:
Harness or connectors
The cooling fan circuit is open or shorted
Cooling fan
Thermostat
Improper ignition timing
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Blocked radiator
Blocked front end
Improper fitting of nose mask
Crushed vehicle frontal area
Vehicle frontal is collided but not repaired
Blocked air passage by improper installation of front fog lamp or fog lamps
Improper mixture ratio of coolant
Damaged bumper
The ones in red would deal with something caused by a crash or modification that would obstruct airflow to the radiator. If you've had neither happen, focus on the others.
Possible Causes:
Harness or connectors
The cooling fan circuit is open or shorted
Cooling fan
Thermostat
Improper ignition timing
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Blocked radiator
Blocked front end
Improper fitting of nose mask
Crushed vehicle frontal area
Vehicle frontal is collided but not repaired
Blocked air passage by improper installation of front fog lamp or fog lamps
Improper mixture ratio of coolant
Damaged bumper
The ones in red would deal with something caused by a crash or modification that would obstruct airflow to the radiator. If you've had neither happen, focus on the others.
Now im getting really poor fuel economy, about 120 miles per tank. Cleaned the maf sensor today gonna check o2 sensors tomorrow. Any guess?
Does the knock senor codes or over temp throw the ecm into safe mode? codes are cleared now, but still getting really bad fuel economy.
Still stumped on the over temp code. temp gauge in the car always ran normal. No front end damage. Fuel economy got me going crazy.
Does the knock senor codes or over temp throw the ecm into safe mode? codes are cleared now, but still getting really bad fuel economy.
Still stumped on the over temp code. temp gauge in the car always ran normal. No front end damage. Fuel economy got me going crazy.
The over-temp will put the vehicle into a rich condition. The light may not be on, but a 1 timer (what a single event is called, it takes 2 events for the light to come on) may trip a rich running condition.
The computer will do that to attempt to cool the engine off by running it rich.
Clear the codes again with your reader. Even if you don't see anything there, most aftermarket readers can't read history, which is wear a 1 timer is stored.
After you clear the history, start the engine. Leave your reader plugged in, you'll need it again.
Now, with the engine warmed all the way up (temp in the middle of the gauge, not just getting heat out of the vents) and running, unplug the MAF sensor. The engine will probably die (sometimes it catches, but usually not). Now turn off the key, plug the MAF back in and restart the engine. Erase the codes again. There may not be a code in there, but again, just clear it anyway. This will clear any learned behavior stored and put everything back to square one.
The other thing that you mentioned was that you changed out a plugged fuel filter. The computer had to learn to deal with a lower fuel pressure (it has no way of knowing what the pressure is if everything isn't perfect). It did this by increasing the duty cycle of injectors, leaving them open a bit longer because the fuel wasn't pressured up to where it needed to be. So when you changed out the plugged filter, you had increased pressure at the injectors. The computer didn't know that you did this, so it's still thinking it's doing what it needs to do (by the self learn). So, you now have crappy fuel mileage.
Clearing the self learn should do wonders for your fuel mileage now.
The computer will do that to attempt to cool the engine off by running it rich.
Clear the codes again with your reader. Even if you don't see anything there, most aftermarket readers can't read history, which is wear a 1 timer is stored.
After you clear the history, start the engine. Leave your reader plugged in, you'll need it again.
Now, with the engine warmed all the way up (temp in the middle of the gauge, not just getting heat out of the vents) and running, unplug the MAF sensor. The engine will probably die (sometimes it catches, but usually not). Now turn off the key, plug the MAF back in and restart the engine. Erase the codes again. There may not be a code in there, but again, just clear it anyway. This will clear any learned behavior stored and put everything back to square one.
The other thing that you mentioned was that you changed out a plugged fuel filter. The computer had to learn to deal with a lower fuel pressure (it has no way of knowing what the pressure is if everything isn't perfect). It did this by increasing the duty cycle of injectors, leaving them open a bit longer because the fuel wasn't pressured up to where it needed to be. So when you changed out the plugged filter, you had increased pressure at the injectors. The computer didn't know that you did this, so it's still thinking it's doing what it needs to do (by the self learn). So, you now have crappy fuel mileage.
Clearing the self learn should do wonders for your fuel mileage now.
On can of seafoam with a full tank of gas.
Clearing makes sense. Can't you clear it with putting the key to ing (not running) and removing the neg battery terminal for 20 mins. then turning the key off the replacing the battery terminal.
You would think learning system should learn the new conditions? lol what does it only correct bad conditions?
Last question getting a lot of moisture out my exhaust. Could this be from the seafoam? Should i throw some heet in it on next tank? By the time it warmer but ive got a river...
Clearing makes sense. Can't you clear it with putting the key to ing (not running) and removing the neg battery terminal for 20 mins. then turning the key off the replacing the battery terminal.
You would think learning system should learn the new conditions? lol what does it only correct bad conditions?
Last question getting a lot of moisture out my exhaust. Could this be from the seafoam? Should i throw some heet in it on next tank? By the time it warmer but ive got a river...
Does your exhaust smell like coolant?
You could have gotten bad gas that had some water in it and you are burning it off. If you are still on the tank that you put the seafoam in, then it will continue to smoke a little until it's run out or close to running out.
You could have gotten bad gas that had some water in it and you are burning it off. If you are still on the tank that you put the seafoam in, then it will continue to smoke a little until it's run out or close to running out.
No coolant smell. Went to work and check some stuff and ahhh sob, the knock senor is bad or the connection is. I checked it at ecm 4.8 volts at idle and when i unplug it, it reads no resistance 
Would the knock sensor being bad put ecm in safe mode? Oh yeah i clear the knock sensor code and it keeps coming right back.
Would the knock sensor being bad put ecm in safe mode? Oh yeah i clear the knock sensor code and it keeps coming right back.
its not that hard just takes some time. dont go cheep on the k/s or you maybe doing more than once.
The Nissan one is OK. Just make sure you torque it down right. A lot of guys want a cheap knock sensor and either over-torque it or under-torque it. There's a spec, use it and all will be OK.
Clear the self learn like I listed. The other way you mentioned only clears the short term fuel trim, not the long term. Disconnecting the battery for any length of time (unless cross shorting the cables for capacitive discharge is also performed, but I don't like that method). The way I listed only takes a minute.
Clear the self learn like I listed. The other way you mentioned only clears the short term fuel trim, not the long term. Disconnecting the battery for any length of time (unless cross shorting the cables for capacitive discharge is also performed, but I don't like that method). The way I listed only takes a minute.
Only because it dies and kicks a code. Hell, we use the MAF unplugging trick to see if a poor running engine will run better in failsafe (which running the vehicle with an unplugged MAF does). After you plug it back it, all is good. There isn't much you can do to do these things that will hurt them.
Ok i'll give it a shot cant hurt at this point getting about 7-8 mpg right now. Its killing me
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
