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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Final Drive 4x4 Front should be 3 3/4 pt.
As stated before....... these are directly out of my 02 owners manuel... if they are wrong not my fault lol
 
I saw this asked several times, but never answered...and since I'm doing an oil change today, I looked it up:

SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil is preferred for all temperatures. SAE
10W-30 and 10W-40 viscosity oil may be used if the ambient temperature
is above −18°C (0°F).
 
vg33e/er with filter---3 1/2 qt.
vg33e/er withot filter--- 3 1/8 qt.
Does that mean with the filter on the engine and empty, I'd add in 3.5 quarts, right?

^Cuz thats what I've been doing for the past 2 and a half years lol
 
Says the same thing in my manual for the VG33E cooling system - 11 5/8 qt

I just did a full cooling system flush and blew out the remaining water with my compressor. I re-filled and it's full and over flowing at 4 1/2 quarts. Where are they coming up with the additional 7 1/8 quarts of coolant?

I let it run for 20 minutes and it never got above the normal operating temperature range?
 
Says the same thing in my manual for the VG33E cooling system - 11 5/8 qt

I just did a full cooling system flush and blew out the remaining water with my compressor. I re-filled and it's full and over flowing at 4 1/2 quarts. Where are they coming up with the additional 7 1/8 quarts of coolant?

I let it run for 20 minutes and it never got above the normal operating temperature range?
Did you pull the block drain plugs?
 
I had my front end lifted about a foot off the ground and would say I got close to 3 quarts out of mine. hard to judge the exact amount because I put an add on tranny cooler to mine. I ran it for a few days and drained about a quart more and refilled because I had to re-route one of the lines for my add on cooler.
 
it is right about 3.5 quarts....If you think it's wrong, change your own oil. Put 3 quarts in it......check the dipstick. add .5 qt, check stick. simple dude. even with the filter change I put 3.5 qts in it. walmart and most mechanics put too much oil in it causing the rear main seal to leak oil. common issue with these engines when over filled.....DO NOT LET WALMART TOUCH YOUR VEHICLE. =) V6 MT 350,000 miles on mine.
 
thanks for the info, i just wanna know what grade of oil... for the differentials, transfer, trans, and engine.. if syntethic.. what brand?
 
thanks for the info, i just wanna know what grade of oil... for the differentials, transfer, trans, and engine.. if syntethic.. what brand?

any name brand. i switched to full synthetic. 10w 30 works for most of us in america. i live in florida so doesnt get too cold here. if you have an auto trans, use what nissan recommends in the service manual. i cant remember off top of my head. i dont have 4wd or auto trans on mine. so i cant run my mouth about the fluid =)>:D
 
OP's post is great. Maybe add info on what years had those engines, or a link to a vin decoder so people can figure out which engine they have. Its good info, but for those that have no idea what engine number they have the info itself is useless.
 
I still get factory oil changes from the Dealership for the next 2 years, but if I'm in charge I always use LiquiMoly full-synthetic oil in my vehicles. Motul full-synthetic is my second choice.. They are the best oils on the market imo.

In Utah, I use 0-40 at my first winter oil change, and 5-40 or 10-40 heading into warmer weather.

LiquiMoly and Motul are best for avoiding engine sludge. Its used especially in High end German vehicles and in engines that have problems with sludge buildup

I usually buy them and a good filter from Napa and take it to shop to change for me for 20 bucks.. The entire oil change runs around 85 dollars that way, its closer to 100 if I take it to a shop that carries LiquiMoly. It'd only be 60 if I did it myself but I live in an apartment.
 
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