[Tenzen]

Also, I think the factory specs for liquid quantities is what is put inside a brand new engine right off the factory floor thats never been turned over.

That includes what they manually pour in during assembly, and whats initially taken into the entire engine and fuel system and tranny etc when first ran

And when you change your fluids you aren't making the engine and fuel system bone dry..

Those numbers aren't what they recommend you put into the vehicle at a fluid change, but what the entire system holds from the factory, which you'll never even come close to emptying.

And the number for gasoline isnt simply what can be dumped in the tank, but what the entire fuel system can hold, after gas has been drawn through a factory dry system and the tank refilled. Same with the other fluids.

 

[sheffner4]

I still get factory oil changes from the Dealership for the next 2 years, but if I'm in charge I always use LiquiMoly full-synthetic oil in my vehicles. Motul full-synthetic is my second choice.. They are the best oils on the market imo.

In Utah, I use 0-40 at my first winter oil change, and 5-40 or 10-40 heading into warmer weather.

LiquiMoly and Motul are best for avoiding engine sludge. Its used especially in High end German vehicles and in engines that have problems with sludge buildup

I usually buy them and a good filter from Napa and take it to shop to change for me for 20 bucks.. The entire oil change runs around 85 dollars that way, its closer to 100 if I take it to a shop that carries LiquiMoly. It'd only be 60 if I did it myself but I live in an apartment.

I would not use 40 weigh oil in the Xterra. If you wanted to use 0W30 that is fine but 40 weight is European models and the Xterra is not going to be protected as well. Also synthetic for cold weather is the way to go.