Does anyone knows if there are special tools, etc. to change the #6 spark plug in the VG33E engine (2000-2004 model). I heard the dealers only change 5 plugs and leave the #6 in. There is an old post on this subject, i just want to know if there are new tools or techniques on how to change it
#6 Spark Plug VG33E
manny
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I feel your pain - I just did the same. A classic 5-plug change, apparently. This is my first plug change with the Xterra, and from all the info on here, I'm sure I can do it as long as I can get that #6 boot off. I was running out of patience and light so I packed it in. I have a long drive coming up soon (1000+ miles), so I'm hoping to get it done to get the best gas mileage possible. At that distance, each MPG is worth about $12 over the trip (comparing 15 to 16 mpg).
I'll give it another go tomorrow a bit earlier than I started tonight.
My #3 plug didn't look so hot... I'm curious if the #6 going to be one of those "never changed" stories once I get it out...
Anyone know what a plug looking like this means? FYI they're NGK double platinum PFR5G-11 (I'm replacing them with the GP platinum bkr5egp that cost 1/4 the price of what was in there. That's #3 on the left and #5 on the right - the other 3 look like #5 (I haven't gotten #6 out yet).
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Anyone know what a plug looking like this means? FYI they're NGK double platinum PFR5G-11 (I'm replacing them with the GP platinum bkr5egp that cost 1/4 the price of what was in there. That's #3 on the left and #5 on the right - the other 3 look like #5 (I haven't gotten #6 out yet).
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997 Posts
They were in way to long 1,3,5,2,4, are the easy plugs to get to, I would change the double platinum plugs at 105 k miles,and 5 years,on single platinum.and stick with ngk.
#6 done... Easy, once I figured out how to get two gloved hands back there to rip the boot off. The arrangement of 3/8" socket and extensions I used was:
1. spark plug socket
2. 6" extension
3. universal joint
4. 6" extension + 3" extension (longer would work if you had a 12" or so)
5. ratchet
I torqued it to a little below the torque range... It's 14-22 so I set it to about 12. I've done some experiments with angle of attack and torque wrenches at work, and I'm pretty confident that's a good way to do it.
FYI, the relevant experiment I did was with a 100 ft lb setting, 16 degrees of wobble w/ 15" of extension gave an output of 104 ft lb. Once it got worse, we stopped, because our calibration tolerances are 4% and we wanted to find something that keeps us in it. More angle/length increases the output before the wrench clicks. This guy did some experimenting of his own and found the relationship is exponential. Scroll down to (or ctrl+f to) the "Torque Wrenches and Accessories" section about halfway down.
1. spark plug socket
2. 6" extension
3. universal joint
4. 6" extension + 3" extension (longer would work if you had a 12" or so)
5. ratchet
I torqued it to a little below the torque range... It's 14-22 so I set it to about 12. I've done some experiments with angle of attack and torque wrenches at work, and I'm pretty confident that's a good way to do it.
FYI, the relevant experiment I did was with a 100 ft lb setting, 16 degrees of wobble w/ 15" of extension gave an output of 104 ft lb. Once it got worse, we stopped, because our calibration tolerances are 4% and we wanted to find something that keeps us in it. More angle/length increases the output before the wrench clicks. This guy did some experimenting of his own and found the relationship is exponential. Scroll down to (or ctrl+f to) the "Torque Wrenches and Accessories" section about halfway down.
2nd Time Around
My 2000 Xterra has 204,000 miles. I changed the plugs at 104,000 miles about five years ago and had the most problems with the #4 plug. This time, at 204,000 miles, I had a lot of problems with #6 and #4. Getting #6 out is not difficult if you can find the right combo of extensions and universal joints. I used a Husky 5/8" socket, a 3" extension, a universal joint, and then a 10" extension. The boot wasn't a problem and the plug came off easily although my left hand got scratched up pretty bad. The hardest part about changing number 6 was getting the new plug thread started correctly. I could find the hole OK but I had a really difficult time trying to turn the plug once you stand it in the hole since you can't get your fingers around it. I didn't want to use the extension/universal joint to start the threads because of the danger of cross-threading it. I persisted by standing the plug in the hole and trying to spin it by "pushing" lightly with one finger on the side of the porcelain part. After about ten tries, I was finally able to get the thread started about an eight of a turn. That was enough for me to put the socket/extensions/universal joint on it and start turning the combo with the socket wrench. The #6 plug went in fine but it ended up taking me about an hour for just that one plug.
I read some of the posts here where some people skipped the #6 plug and did a five plug change only. Not a good idea! That plug will eventually fail. My second set of plugs (the ones I changed this time at 204,000 miles) lasted about 100,000 miles. My first set lasted about 104,000 miles. I was going to wait until I got to 208,000 miles before changing the plugs this time, but I got a flashing "check engine light" at 204,000 with a P302 code (2nd cylinder misfire). Fortunately it happened when I started the car at home one morning. A steadily flashing check engine light with cylinder misfire code means that you can destroy your three-way catalytic converter if you drive with the misfire. A regular (non-flashing) check engine light with a cylinder misfire code is OK to drive with and supposedly won't harm your cat converter.
One last thing, (I mentioned this in a different thread) the #4 plug was really difficult to remove this time. The socket wouldn't go all the way down the shaft to grip the plug. The shaft seems to get narrower as you go down further towards the plug. I remember the first time I changed the plugs at 104,000 miles I had the same problem. I allowed the engine to cool down completely and then the socket fit all the way down the shaft. This time that didn't work and I ended up having to file and sand about .04 inches around the socket to make it fit. This worked perfectly and the plug came off easily after I "shrunk" down the outer diameter of the Husky socket. The Husky socket started out with about a .865" outer diameter. After filing and sanding, it was .825 outer diameter. Checked it with a caliper before and after.
Good luck!
My 2000 Xterra has 204,000 miles. I changed the plugs at 104,000 miles about five years ago and had the most problems with the #4 plug. This time, at 204,000 miles, I had a lot of problems with #6 and #4. Getting #6 out is not difficult if you can find the right combo of extensions and universal joints. I used a Husky 5/8" socket, a 3" extension, a universal joint, and then a 10" extension. The boot wasn't a problem and the plug came off easily although my left hand got scratched up pretty bad. The hardest part about changing number 6 was getting the new plug thread started correctly. I could find the hole OK but I had a really difficult time trying to turn the plug once you stand it in the hole since you can't get your fingers around it. I didn't want to use the extension/universal joint to start the threads because of the danger of cross-threading it. I persisted by standing the plug in the hole and trying to spin it by "pushing" lightly with one finger on the side of the porcelain part. After about ten tries, I was finally able to get the thread started about an eight of a turn. That was enough for me to put the socket/extensions/universal joint on it and start turning the combo with the socket wrench. The #6 plug went in fine but it ended up taking me about an hour for just that one plug.
I read some of the posts here where some people skipped the #6 plug and did a five plug change only. Not a good idea! That plug will eventually fail. My second set of plugs (the ones I changed this time at 204,000 miles) lasted about 100,000 miles. My first set lasted about 104,000 miles. I was going to wait until I got to 208,000 miles before changing the plugs this time, but I got a flashing "check engine light" at 204,000 with a P302 code (2nd cylinder misfire). Fortunately it happened when I started the car at home one morning. A steadily flashing check engine light with cylinder misfire code means that you can destroy your three-way catalytic converter if you drive with the misfire. A regular (non-flashing) check engine light with a cylinder misfire code is OK to drive with and supposedly won't harm your cat converter.
One last thing, (I mentioned this in a different thread) the #4 plug was really difficult to remove this time. The socket wouldn't go all the way down the shaft to grip the plug. The shaft seems to get narrower as you go down further towards the plug. I remember the first time I changed the plugs at 104,000 miles I had the same problem. I allowed the engine to cool down completely and then the socket fit all the way down the shaft. This time that didn't work and I ended up having to file and sand about .04 inches around the socket to make it fit. This worked perfectly and the plug came off easily after I "shrunk" down the outer diameter of the Husky socket. The Husky socket started out with about a .865" outer diameter. After filing and sanding, it was .825 outer diameter. Checked it with a caliper before and after.
Good luck!
Joined
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208 Posts
Just the opposite really. I did this for the first time this past weekend. Since I could not even reach my hand in far enough to thread the plug bare, I used the 6" extension with the plug socket. Seated the plug into socket and guided it in, keeping the socket snug to the engine side, which is formed to the shape of the socket really...once it is seated, gently turned the top of the extension a turn or 2, and then gently pull up to see if it catches. Mine caught first attempt. It kept turning so I knew it wasnt crossed (usually you know this by first turn). once snug, hooked up remaining extensions and tightened up. I used the socket to seat all the plugs. They all threaded first try except #4. Use duct tape on joints when putting new plug in, since you leave the socket behind when you try and remove your tools!
In the manuals "do it yourself" section 8-20 & 8-21 it shows pictures of the factory tools supplied with the vehicle. This may help either locating or purchasing a similar setup if it makes life easier. I got enough false feedback in the U joints I used to half seat/ almost cross-thread a plug for a day until the sound of an exhaust leak made me recheck. The factory supplied socket with the oblong eyelet in the top of it to be used with the dogleg wrench looks like it could have been the way to go. My wrists are still healing from rubbing my skin off. But me and Aunt Millie (Drinks like a fish (gas) and smokes like a freight train (valve cover leak) ) are bonded, got a little skin in the game. I friggin love this little Gen 1. Her drive train kinda thick.
61 - 67 of 67 Posts
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