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Gas and exhaust, eh? Do you hear the telltale ticking of a cracked manifold?

Are you getting the smell through the vents?

The fact that it cut right out like that means you're either completely losing fuel or completely losing spark. I gonna guess that since you smell fuel, the likely culprit is still something in the electrical system.

If it's not the distributor itself, it's likely something like the ignition coil or alternator, since it cuts out at higher revs as well.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Oh for sure. The manifolds are going to have to be replaced. When you first start it up it sounds like its cracked however as the engine heats it acts like the crack is sealing (due to heat) and it sounds much better. Anyway...

I think the best thing to do at this point is go get a shop to throw it on a big computer and tell me whats wrong as opposed to continuing to dump money into it on "it might be this" directions. I know how to test the knock sensor so I'm going to do that tomorrow. Other than that, the manifolds are something I planned on doing anyway along with a new exhaust system. I just wasn't planning on doing it before Christmas...I have three kids!!!
 
Well, if you're handy with a miltimeter, and have a little extra time, you can try to follow the electricity from the alternator through the system to see if it will show you the component that's interrupting it.

Your alternator should be producing about 14 volts at idle, definately no less than 12 volts. A healthy alternator should produce 14.5 or 15 at normal idle, and more as the engine speeds up. The voltage regulator will control any excess produced by the alternator, so the system isn't overloaded. From there, you can follow the wires, and watch on the multimeter where the energy is being lost.

That's just a quick little check you can do yourself for free, if you feel like it.

If the problem is related to fuel delivery, the electrical will likely check out, but you'll get bank 1/bank 2 lean codes, or O2 sensor faults.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Well the crazy thing is that it only starts happening after it warms up to standard operating temperature. If its the fuel pump, that would be a consistent problem wouldn't it? Not to mention it would be happening all the time, not just when it gets warmed up. I thought of the exhaust because I've seen where the catalytic converter gets blocked up and would cause it to stall. By the way, which device is the catalytic converter? Is it the device thats about half way through the chassis...right before the muffler? Just wanted to check that too. Hit it with a rubber mallet. I don't have to worry about emissions so that's no biggie to try either.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
AutoZone told me how to check the knock sensor to see if its bad. I've read all kinds of threads saying that the knock sensor can cause the vehicle to stall...I've also read where on a non supercharged X its no big deal and to not worry about replacing it.
 
Yeah, it's almost impossible for a knock sensor in any condition to cause an engine to stall.

As for the catalytic converters, there are four (yes, FOUR) cat's. Two on each side, stacked right after the manifolds. When you look down beside the engine you can see them. The little round canister-lookin thing close to the muffler is a resonator. It's like a mini-muffler. It's just there to reduce noise.

As far as I know, it would have to be an extreme exhaust problem to cause a stall, something like the exhaust being crimped shut.

The fuel sending unit on these rigs is electrical, not mechanical, so it's as susceptable to shorts and poor connections as anything else, and can therefore cut in and out. It could be responsible for the problem.

How long as this been going on for again? Is it possible you just got some really rotten fuel?

I'm sorry, it's just a difficult problem to troubleshoot when you haven't identified whether it's fuel or spark related.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Yeah, it's almost impossible for a knock sensor in any condition to cause an engine to stall.

As for the catalytic converters, there are four (yes, FOUR) cat's. Two on each side, stacked right after the manifolds. When you look down beside the engine you can see them. The little round canister-lookin thing close to the muffler is a resonator. It's like a mini-muffler. It's just there to reduce noise.

As far as I know, it would have to be an extreme exhaust problem to cause a stall, something like the exhaust being crimped shut.

The fuel sending unit on these rigs is electrical, not mechanical, so it's as susceptable to shorts and poor connections as anything else, and can therefore cut in and out. It could be responsible for the problem.

How long as this been going on for again? Is it possible you just got some really rotten fuel?

I'm sorry, it's just a difficult problem to troubleshoot when you haven't identified whether it's fuel or spark related.

Ok...lets get all the info out here again including what I've done and the symptoms.

This started happening about a month or so ago. At first it was few and far between. My X would just stall when stopped and in gear (automatic). Since then it has become very frequent having an episode one or two times during my daily drive. Two days ago it stalled as I was going 45 down a street.

This is what I've done so far:

Replaced the fuel filter. Replaced all six (yeah...even number 6) spark plugs. Replaced the rotor button. Replaced the wires. Replaced the battery. Cleaned the MAS. I have run fuel injection cleaner through it. I have run water remover through it. I have "tapped" the condenser on the distributor. I have checked the distributor for any metal shavings or any clue that there might be an issue with it.

I have not seen a check engine light however I had my local Auto Zone guys hook up their computer to it. It shows a knock sensor error. That's it. That's all I got...I have no clue where to go from here except to some shop so they can run a full diagnostic on it.

Having said all that, I did find a recall on the first gen X's for the fuel pump. In some states its mandatory for the dealer to replace the sending unit however, in my state all that they are required to do is inspect it and put some sealant around it. Go figure.

Ok. Now something else has come to light tonight that I was unaware of. We have Passtime installed on the car. Yeah yeah last wife screwed my entire world up including my credit...anyway...we found this excerpt:

"The devices (Passtime) used in the subprime market have spawned lively debates about their value and appropriateness, along with Internet chatter about how to disable them -- a move sure to send the repo teams into action. There have been a few lawsuits and scattered complaints about devices SHUTTING DOWN THE ENGINE WHILE THE OWNER IS DRIVING. Manufacturers attribute the incidents to mechanical problems unrelated to the devices."

Tomorrow I'm going to the dealer to have a chat about the X...it might not go so well.
 
Well, I'm totally unfamiliar with that Passtime thing...I couldn't even google it. It seems like you've taken all the appropriate steps tho. I think the diagnostic is a good idea. That'll at least narrow the field considerably.

Good luck at the dealership, post your results. :)
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Well...went to the dealer...there shop was closed but the manager agreed to look over it and find the issue. If they do me right I'll post it on here...if they don't, I'll post it on here and every page I can find...

Till then...keep it runnin'
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Well update...I saw this coming about 50 miles away...the dealership pushed me off to noe of their "offsite" mechanics who wants to charge me up the ass to diagnoss the problem. Go figure on that one. I'm going to take it to the Nissan place and have them take care of the fuel pump recall and see what that does. If it doesn't fix it, I'm sure they will be giving me a list of things that are wrong with it so they can make more money. I truly hate dealerships.
 
If you wind up going to a private place, they should only charge you like an hour or hour and a half of shop time to do a scan on your engine.

I took mine in to diagnose the missfire I had, and they charged my for 1 hour of time, and gave me a few printount from the scan.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Well...lets wrap this thread up! After sinking a few (ahhh yeah) dollars into the problem...and being sent in a hundred directions...the problem has finally been solved and taken care of...MAF...why in the hell car manufactures put a hundred sensors on your vehicle is beyond me...well...regardless of what I think...the problem is finally solved. I want to take a minute and thank everyone that contributed to this issue. Thanks a lot! I'll be around!
 
If it also affects other instruments inside the truck, like your interior lights, compass, power-locks, etc. Then I would say you've got an electrical issue with your Body Control Module.

If it's isolated to just the main gauge cluster, then it's probably fuse or relay related.

And when you say the panel blinks, do you mean the service engine light? all lights? eyelids that actually close over the gauges? More detailed info would help.
 
my 2003 xterra keeps stalling at idle,cleaned the throttle position sensor and the MAF still stalling also does not shift into 2nd gear and while driving the od does not turn off, the light comes on but it makes no difference. any ideas ?
 
Well...lets wrap this thread up! After sinking a few (ahhh yeah) dollars into the problem...and being sent in a hundred directions...the problem has finally been solved and taken care of...MAF...why in the hell car manufactures put a hundred sensors on your vehicle is beyond me...well...regardless of what I think...the problem is finally solved. I want to take a minute and thank everyone that contributed to this issue. Thanks a lot! I'll be around!
This thread saved me so much money! I was having the EXACT same problem as you, after reading through this it was obviously the MAF. I ended up buying a can of MAF sensor cleaner and this did the trick! Thanks fellas!!
 
ummm.. CEL on? or have you checked for soft codes yet?

Sound like a sensor failing or a possible vacuum leak on the I/M, not necessarily an issue with your rig there.
 
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