I pull a 6x12 converted Cargo trailer 2400 lbs. I'll be looking at a 2012 and the dealer said and my research it has the capacity to handle 5,000. How do they do going over mountain passes? I currently pull with a 2006 Hummer H3 manual and it bogs down to 5 mpg over Vail pass. I'm just curious as to if this get the job done.
Jersey
does it have the 4.0 is it supercharged? might do ok if those are the variables, I'd be looking at a 96-99 tahoe / suburban 1500 with a 5.7 (only 5.7 there is a 5.0 too) 19mpg hwy and it'll pull 8k easy
Thank you it was just too small for my needs. I'm back to looking at F150 or Ram. But I'd love an Xterra for just overland fun.
Gen2 Xterra offered only the 4.0L in a non-supercharged version.
Superchargers were available on the Gen1 models after the front end make-over that put a bump in the hood to provide the extra room for the optional supercharger, so only 2002-2004 had the option from the factory.
Superchargers were available on the Gen1 models after the front end make-over that put a bump in the hood to provide the extra room for the optional supercharger, so only 2002-2004 had the option from the factory.
This may be a little late, but...
None of the xterra's are huge on power, thought the gen2 is about 80 hp more than the gen1. The 2012 has about 261 hp. It has a rated towing capacity of 5000 lbs, but if you're going up high altitude/steep mountain passes you may find that it's a little on the slow side. It will do it, but you're going to have to be patient and you may piss off some other drivers that get stuck behind you in stretches where the road drops to one lane.
Keep in mind that with altitude, vehicle hp and gas mileage tends to drop due to less oxygen.
Regardless of which vehicle you choose, do make sure that you have an auxiliary transmission cooler installed. It will greatly increase the life of both your transmission fluid and you transmission.
None of the xterra's are huge on power, thought the gen2 is about 80 hp more than the gen1. The 2012 has about 261 hp. It has a rated towing capacity of 5000 lbs, but if you're going up high altitude/steep mountain passes you may find that it's a little on the slow side. It will do it, but you're going to have to be patient and you may piss off some other drivers that get stuck behind you in stretches where the road drops to one lane.
Keep in mind that with altitude, vehicle hp and gas mileage tends to drop due to less oxygen.
Regardless of which vehicle you choose, do make sure that you have an auxiliary transmission cooler installed. It will greatly increase the life of both your transmission fluid and you transmission.
Many of our mountain customers pull horse trailers with their armadas. I relocated the trailer brake controller on a 11 pathfinder the other day that also pulls horses around. If your trailer is less than 3,000 lbs then the smaller truck should do just fine but if it gets any bigger or you’re doing any unpaved roads then you’ll probably want a full size. Anything on I-70 is fine because the semis are usually going 35 anyway. No one is usually moving very fast at 11,000 feet+.
Last year. I bought an rv with a dry weight of 3250 and with gear over 4 and it’s low and slow up any sort of hill. It surpassed my very low expectations via the research but I’m very honestly contemplating keeping the X for my quick camps and buying a decent truck to haul the rv. If I was stuck behind me, I’d be pissed too 😡 😂 I have an gen 1 ‘04, 3.3, not turbo.
Well I have a 2003 Xterra four-wheel drive supercharged. And maybe it was stupid but two days ago I hauled 6300 lb of hay on a trailer that probably weighs 5 to 800 lb so I was over 7,000 lb. The trailer nor my vehicle have trailer brakes on them so I just took it slow about 10 miles on gravel road and 35 miles on pavement it really had no problem I made sure that overdrive was turned off and just started slowing down very early before I had to make a turn or come to a stop. I'm going to need to do it a couple more times to get enough hay for the winter I hope I have no problems.
Disclaimer: this got a little long (cause I never write long posts... 
)
And perhaps rent or borrow a higher capacity truck for towing.
Your loaded trailer is getting towards double the weight of your actual vehicle (3589 - 4075lbs).
The max rated towing capacity is 5000 lbs for an X with an auto transmission and 3500 lbs for a manual transmission. The gen1 and the gen2 have the same capacity rating.
Know that there is no criticism in this post, just plain concern for your well being and a desire to get the info out there.
You are running a high risk of the brakes overheating, jack knifing and also for the trailer to drive you, meaning that the extra weight can make your brakes useless, but also if it starts to swing you will have no control over the direction your vehicle goes. A swinging load could also cause you to roll over. All of this happens a lot faster than most people think. You also have to recognize that the trailer hitch on the vehicle is only rated for a certain amount of weight. If you are only using a bumper ball, the towing capacity is greatly reduced due to the very real danger of the ball tearing out of the relatively thin bumper steel. I'd highly recommend a proper frame mounted trailer hitch with an appropriate rating.
You should also be sure to use safety chains, which will keep the trailer connected to you should the hitch ever fail. Once again, most common safety chains are only rated at about 3500 lbs, unless they were bought with/for a larger trailer. Safety chains also need an appropriate rating for the load they may possibly encounter.
Mechanically, you risk overheating not only your engine (which there is a light for), but the transmission, which there is no extra cooler or temp light for on the gen1. A blown transmission will be about a $5K bill (possibly more) to repair. Let's not talk about the liability/legal issues if you get into an accident with a vehicle that is well over the legal towing/carrying capacity, but you could end up having nowhere to take the hay to in the future.
Nissan strongly recommends that you use trailer brakes for larger loads (SUV's and heavy trailers).
Not trying to be the doom and gloom guy, but you're running a lot of risks that could affect yourself and others now, and well into the future.
If renting or borrowing a more appropriate vehicle is not in the cards you could try carrying a lighter load of hay and make more trips. I know that it may not be in the cards if the hay is in a large round bale vs a bunch of cubes or loose.
If you do continue as you are, please be sure to stay off any highways and use back roads only. If the highway patrol sees you, they will likely pull you over. Especially if you're swaying at all and if they see your trailer doesn't have lights (and possibly no license plate). Also, don't get cocky and don't rush. I wouldn't suggest going over 35 mph with that load, less on gravel. If you have kids, leave them at home. You don't need the distractions and if something happens you don't need the guilt (poop happens).
)And perhaps rent or borrow a higher capacity truck for towing.
Your loaded trailer is getting towards double the weight of your actual vehicle (3589 - 4075lbs).
The max rated towing capacity is 5000 lbs for an X with an auto transmission and 3500 lbs for a manual transmission. The gen1 and the gen2 have the same capacity rating.
Know that there is no criticism in this post, just plain concern for your well being and a desire to get the info out there.
You are running a high risk of the brakes overheating, jack knifing and also for the trailer to drive you, meaning that the extra weight can make your brakes useless, but also if it starts to swing you will have no control over the direction your vehicle goes. A swinging load could also cause you to roll over. All of this happens a lot faster than most people think. You also have to recognize that the trailer hitch on the vehicle is only rated for a certain amount of weight. If you are only using a bumper ball, the towing capacity is greatly reduced due to the very real danger of the ball tearing out of the relatively thin bumper steel. I'd highly recommend a proper frame mounted trailer hitch with an appropriate rating.
You should also be sure to use safety chains, which will keep the trailer connected to you should the hitch ever fail. Once again, most common safety chains are only rated at about 3500 lbs, unless they were bought with/for a larger trailer. Safety chains also need an appropriate rating for the load they may possibly encounter.
Mechanically, you risk overheating not only your engine (which there is a light for), but the transmission, which there is no extra cooler or temp light for on the gen1. A blown transmission will be about a $5K bill (possibly more) to repair. Let's not talk about the liability/legal issues if you get into an accident with a vehicle that is well over the legal towing/carrying capacity, but you could end up having nowhere to take the hay to in the future.
Nissan strongly recommends that you use trailer brakes for larger loads (SUV's and heavy trailers).
Not trying to be the doom and gloom guy, but you're running a lot of risks that could affect yourself and others now, and well into the future.
If renting or borrowing a more appropriate vehicle is not in the cards you could try carrying a lighter load of hay and make more trips. I know that it may not be in the cards if the hay is in a large round bale vs a bunch of cubes or loose.
If you do continue as you are, please be sure to stay off any highways and use back roads only. If the highway patrol sees you, they will likely pull you over. Especially if you're swaying at all and if they see your trailer doesn't have lights (and possibly no license plate). Also, don't get cocky and don't rush. I wouldn't suggest going over 35 mph with that load, less on gravel. If you have kids, leave them at home. You don't need the distractions and if something happens you don't need the guilt (poop happens).
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