You are braver than I to go through the roof, but it looks like you're doing your homework. You might look at some basic trailer wiring for the plugs. Should be able to run 12 gauge wire and offer the indoor outdoor protection you want. Just where to mount them on the light bar would be the question. Maybe customize something to the back of the foot on the support.

Good luck and please post your results, solutions etc..

 

In your diagram you don't have any power to trigger your relays (85 & 86), right now they are both grounds (one needs to be +12v). Also 85 and 86 can use smaller wire if you want (like 16ga), because the relay coil itself doesn't draw hardly any current.

Also you want your grounds as short as possible, so no you don't need to go all the way back to the battery itself.

 

You are braver than I to go through the roof, but it looks like you're doing your homework. You might look at some basic trailer wiring for the plugs. Should be able to run 12 gauge wire and offer the indoor outdoor protection you want. Just where to mount them on the light bar would be the question. Maybe customize something to the back of the foot on the support.

Good luck and please post your results, solutions etc..

It seems like through-the-roof is the most widely used method. If that many people are doing it, there must be a reason. I have silicone sealant to plug the hole, plus it will beneath the rack foot, which also has a rubber seal around it.

Also, the plugs I picked up were, in fact, 2-pin trailer connect plugs. The problem is that they only come on 14ga wire, and the packaging says they're only rated for 7.5 amps.

In your diagram you don't have any power to trigger your relays (85 & 86), right now they are both grounds (one needs to be +12v). Also 85 and 86 can use smaller wire if you want (like 16ga), because the relay coil itself doesn't draw hardly any current.

Also you want your grounds as short as possible, so no you don't need to go all the way back to the battery itself.

Thanks, good catch. I actually meant to put that in, but simply forgot. I have updated the diagram in the first post to reflect the power source through the switches.

The 85 & 86 pins are 12ga simply because that's what I already have purchased. No sense in buying additional wire when a 12ga will be fine. I don't mind it being a bit beefier than strictly necessary.

Where would be the best place to ground them on the roof? Can I go to the steel bar, or will that not be a strong enough ground? This is all new to me, so I don't really know what would (or would not) be a sufficient method for grounding.

I have posted some shots of the bar setup and how it will sit on the rack in the original post, if that will help you.

 

Any update on this? Looks good so far.

 

How are you liking these lights? Are they bright enough to tell a difference? 60 bucks for 4 roof lights is a steal. Just hoping theyre not cheaply built.

 

Hey guys, sorry for the long hiatus. I haven't been on the forums much thanks to a hectic work schedule.

Anyway, the roof lights have been working out great! They are very bright and do a great job of illuminating the back roads about 150-200' down the road. They're great for spotting deer and other roadside critters in plenty of time to react/avoid them.

I also use them in the fields up at my mountain house to spot deer from a couple hundred yards away. The focus/beam is very long-range, which is great.

As for the construction, they have held up very well, with no issues whatsoever in the past 8 months.

I had a bunch of photos posted in my build thread, but my web hosting was canceled after my site got hacked. I'll have to re-upload them elsewhere so I can share them on here.

I am hoping to be more active now that things have calmed down at work, so I am happy to answer any questions regarding the lights (or anything else for that matter).

- Dave

 

When going through the roof how did you waterproof everything?

Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

Hey... Share your work. Im planing to do te same in my X... Remobable Ligth Bar !

 

I know this response is quite late, but hopefully it may be of use to anyone who stumbles upon this thread...

When going through the roof how did you waterproof everything?

I did two things to help keep everything watertight. First, I drilled the hole directly beneath the foot of the roof rack which has a rubber grommet running around the bottom of it. This keeps the hole out of any direct rain, snow, etc. Second, I insulated the wire running through the hole and held it in place with a rubber grommet to help prevent any surface moisture from making it inside the roof.

Hey... Share your work. Im planing to do te same in my X... Remobable Ligth Bar !

For the light bar, I used a straight piece of square steel bar stock that I picked up from a local supplier. (In hindsight, I should have gone with aluminum for lighter weight and easier drilling/cutting.) Anyway, I cut the bar to fit down inside my roof basket to keep the installation as low-profile as possible. Then I used some 1/8" steel strap pieces and hammer-formed them to bolt onto the bar and then up and onto the roof rails where the stock basket Torx bolts are. I used these bolts to secure the bar in place. To make the wiring removable, I wired the lights in two circuits and connected them to the truck wiring using 2-oin Weatherproof connector plugs which I was able to source from my local NAPA Auto Parts.

 

I know Pro-X models have a hole in the roof already for lightbars. Does anyone know if it's the same for 2nd generation xterra offroad version. I'm trying to avoid making a hole in the roof.