So Im new here because I have questions. Driving to work today at a stop sign looking to turn right, I hit the gas and the xterra didnt move, it had stalled. i tried to start it a few times no go, so called a tow and got it to a garage, they then tell me timing belt broke and probably valves are shot. I didnt hear any noise, it just stalled. $350 to replace the belt and do a compression check to see if it will run again, if not they say either a valve job or new engine. how much does either of that cost? and what the hey,why is there no warning when those are going to break?i just bought the thing a few months ago, so how are you to know?
Jocasta
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My approach would be to (legally) assume that as the truck had 165 k on it, all required maintenance up to that point should have been performed (Oil changes, belts, whatever...)....so its the SELLER'S responsibility to make it right.
If it was sold, "as is", with no maintenance records, and no warranty, well, then they ARE saying that they DON'T KNOW if all that had been done, or not....and you took a chance because (hopefully), it was cheaper than other comparable choices (Because it was a crap shoot maintenance-wise...)
In that case, you took a chance, and lost....but, with any luck, the repairs won't be TOO much more than the money saved by not getting one with a warranty.
Good Luck!
If it was sold, "as is", with no maintenance records, and no warranty, well, then they ARE saying that they DON'T KNOW if all that had been done, or not....and you took a chance because (hopefully), it was cheaper than other comparable choices (Because it was a crap shoot maintenance-wise...)
In that case, you took a chance, and lost....but, with any luck, the repairs won't be TOO much more than the money saved by not getting one with a warranty.
Good Luck!
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5 Years after the post before...I guess you DO read up before posting.So many have gotten lucky when their timing belts broke on the 3.3 it makes me wonder if the interference warning on them is stated because the valves "might" come in contact with a piston not stating as it always "will".
My Isuzu Rodeo 6cyl stated Interference but I know a Isuzu shop mech says he's never seen damage from any valves on the Isuzu after breaking belts and its only "recomended" by Isuzu to replace it? Could be the same here??
Most valves bend when engines turned over again trying to restart them more times than just stauling fyi. Standard shifts in gear until completely stopping too get them easier.
Its my opinion too that they be replaced at 105 too, I wont chance it.
I removed a factory Gates timing belt from my neighbors 300m with over 170k and the belt looked new with teeth/letters/lines like new too. She bought car new had all records, never replaced it, never new too. Stretched to its max and hyd tensioner was siezed to its limit. No doubt if it wasnt a Gates that engine would of been toast. China rubber is trash as we know. Its the only brand I buy now after that, its condition was amazing to me....People just dont know to replace these belts but hey we get their car parts so thanks people...
Long post sorry
READ MAINTENIENCE SCHEDULES IN THOSE MANUALS AFTER ANY PURCHASE!!!
I had a belt snap early on me, it went at ~ 95 k or so....and there was significant interference, as I was going ~ 70 mph on my way to a response on route 295 when it blew a hole in the block and sprayed oil and aluminum shrapnel all over the road.
Generally, on an interference engine, its a question of degree....much like with hydrolocking, etc.
IE: If there's not much force on it at the time, it can let go gently enough to stall/die, but not fatally wound the engine....but, the more under load you are at the time, the more likely momentum, etc, will take its toll.
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Belts are designed to go as long as a single row chain will if driven correctly. Over 170k on the 300m was still going, my 91 Toyota chain 2.4 went 177k also interference but toys chains eat into water pump housing when stretched like mine done. 1984 back toys had dual row chains would go 300k before it done it. Ive seen single chains break at 70k my own self from hot rodding alot in my old 289 Ford Mustang & my 351 cleveland Torino too. Ya' Im a lead foot..lol Chevy 350 trucks let loose at 115-125 on average due to streching,breaking or falling off the nylon gears.
Really' It all depends how the engines been treated. If driven hard or used for pulling or hauling heavy loads the chain/belt stretches and they break or fall off around 1/2 their normal life span. Thats why the history of the vehicle is important and one must ask how its been used when buying. Assume the worst if histories unknown and change it out to be safe. Always look at/for a trailor hiches when buying trucks to see if its been towed with because its hard on everything.
5 Years after the post before...I guess you DO read up before posting.
New members and new car owners join/read different sites everyday so even though everything here's old news to old members its all new info to new Xterra owners you know?
Interference engines started at the tracks many yrs ago to gain hp.
Factory interference engines started to show up in the 80s also as a way to increase hp but used more now to save fuel. I could do without them too.
Heres a very usefull link:
Gates timing belt replacement Interval Guide shows replacement schedules for all cars and shows what engines are interference too.....Great to keep around.
http://www.gates.com/~/media/Files/...media/Files/Gates/Automotive/Catalogs/Automotive/TimingBeltReplacementGuide.pdf
The timing belt is a maintenance item listed as needing to be changed at 105k miles....it might be a bit optimistic to assume that if you didn't tow, etc, you can go any particular mileage on them more than that. The NISSAN belt, and the GATES belts, might be a smidge different in longevity as well, etc.
I agree that the SPECIFIC belt life is going to be longer if its had an easier life etc, but, I don't want to mislead the newbs with statements that imply longer intervals are OK.
TOO many have simply snapped at or around that magic 105k mark to ignore.
So, sure, from a a maintenance perspective, I HATE timing belt/interference engines...a PITA.
(BTW - the reference to you reading old posts was a compliment, as compared to newbs who ask questions WITHOUT reading up first. I think you might have thought I meant it differently?)
The solution of course is to buy one of them newfangled 2005+ X's.
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The 2005+ have chains, more horsepower and torque, and better mpg...so, on the X, I'm not sure what we'd be losing on the 3.3 L at least.
If the belts could be made to last the life of the engine, great.
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I don't, but, if having a truck working hard shortens a belt's life, well, mea culpa there.
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In case anybody cares. Here are pics of my girlfriends Isuzu Rodeo when the tensioner snapped. Interference fit engine and it bent EVERY valve. You can see none of them would close while still in the head. Don't risk it. Change those belts and associated parts.
BEFORE Head Repair
AFTER
The after looks better.
On my '01, when I hydrolocked it, it was mostly some bent wrist pins. When the timing belt snapped, it blew a hole in the block.
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