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She's getting up there! 280,000 miles with more to go

1.4K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Jeffrois  
#1 ·
Hey guys,
I have a 2006 4x4 SE.

I've been checking with dealerships about which fluids to get swapped at this point. They all seem to have a bunch of solutions but the packages they offer are kinda silly. There's one that's an alignment/rotation, oil conditioner, brake fluid and radiator flush -- all for the bargain price of $929.00!

Which fluids do you think I need to have a dealership swap out by a certified tech? It seems like the transfer case, rear diff, transmission and brake fluid would be sufficient.

DIY fluids seem like power steering and radiator flush -- with a new oil/filter of course.

What would you guys recommend I do myself, and which should I fork out the massive dollars to the dealership for?
 
#2 ·
I just seems like robbery to me...but it depends on what type of individual you are--the type that can afford it and would rather have the time in your pocket and have someone else do it...or spend the time doing it yourself and save some money.
 
#4 ·
It was just over a year ago when I last took my car or my Xterra to a shop. I got 5 new tires on my X.

Just like you, I prefer to do my own work. It's not just to save money, but also because I've had some pretty expensive bad experiences from what started as simple tasks.

I agree with @Ocala X on doing it yourself if you are willing and able.

Alignment: If the tires are wearing well, rotate the tires (yourself or a shop) and watch them, taking pictures as the miles pile on. If you feel an alignment is needed, take it to a competent shop.

Oil conditioner: I have to wonder about the "conditioner" part. Modern oils are very special brews of oil and other additives, so adding more "conditioner" to the oil could help, or it could do nothing. Your choice, but to pay a shop to pour a bottle isn't my cup of tea. If they say that they'll drain the oil, then fill it with a special cleaner that they pump through it, and then flush that out and fill it with motor oil, you might be getting a pig in a poke. Synthetic motor oil is so good at keeping things clean that you don't need to "condition" the crankcase and oil galleries. If you're not using full-synthetic, switch now and you'll love it. When your rig was new, it probably required plain old dino oil. Since then, specs for most cars have been upgraded to a synthetic blend or full-synthetic.

Brake fluid: You can flush (not just simply bleed) the brake fluid pretty easily, and all by yourself. I did it to my 2011 Chevy sedan. 1) Use a turkey baster or other means to extract as much fluid from the reservoir as possible. 2) Slowly pour new fluid in. "Slowly" will reduce how much of the old fluid mixes with the new. 3) Bleed the brakes as usual. I used a hand-operated vacuum pump. When I saw clear fluid, I moved to the next wheel. 4) Check the fluid level often and make sure it never sucks in air. 5) Top off with new fluid. Done. You now have new fluid throughout your system, except for the ABS module, which would take a dealer service tech to be able to cycle that.

Radiator/Coolant flush: My experience in the past with 2 different vehicles (much older ones) taught me that running a coolant flush/cleaner is not bad, but be prepared to replace the water pump. So, my standard action is to do the complete flush, then replace the water pump, t-stat, and all hoses. Drive for a week or 2 with just water to ensure that there are no new leaks, then drain and fill with a proper coolant mixture.
 
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#7 ·
Don't forget to up-sell the blinker fluid as well!
 
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