HOW TO- Replace the fuel sending unit (1st gen)

Silver Dude · Jan 26, 2010

The fuel sending unit going bad is a fairly common problem on 1st gen Xterra's. In my specific case the Xterra would run for 20 minute intervals before choking itself out. After a short while I would be able to restart and drive another short distance before it would shortly die out again.

What wrong?
The fuel pump connector on the sending unit develops corrosion. This corrosion causes a bad connection. The bad connection causes the engine to shut off as it kills the power to the fuel pump. You might drive for a short while building up heat at this connection until it gets to hot and no longer conducts good enough to pass the power to the fuel pump. After you stall out and let it cool it will revert back to its old ways. Of course yours could also be so far gone you get no power to the fuel pump at all.

Before you tear into it. This is a free voluntary recall so call your dealership with your Vin number to check that this has been done. If it hasn't been replaced they should do it for free. In my case my sending unit went bad again for a second time and the dealer would not replace it more then once.

Last one on this page.
http://www.lemonauto.com/complaints/nissan/xterra.htm

You need a new sending unit and gasket if your doing it yourself. Mine ran me $95 with seal at my local dealership.

1. IMPORTANT:Begin the install by disconnecting the battery don't want the chance of any sparks.

2. Remove the rear passenger seat cushion.

3. Under the seat cushion you will find a hidden trap door.

4. Remove trap door cover. (Would make a great place to hide "something" shhh didn't hear it from me.)

5. Remove secondary cover push the grommet in and through.

6. Carefully remove both connectors from the fuel sending unit.

7. Push the green tabs to release the fuel lines. Fuel will spill out have a rag ready. I like paper towel as I can easily safely dispose of it (light it on fire in backyard later, lol) Mark one of the lines I put electrical tape on the rear most line as so I knew where it went.

8. Remove the bolts and ring around the sending unit.

9. Raise sending unit take note of hoses and locations.

10. Tie off a shoe string then thread the string through each line tying a knot at each line and wire. This will prevent the hoses and wires from falling into the tank later. It will allow you to quickly reconnect them later without having to dig for them in a possibly full gas tank.

11. Disconnect hoses and wires from sending unit.

12. Remove unit

13. Remove gasket.

14. Reinstall in reverse order of write up.

TJTJ · Jan 26, 2010

Nice Job!

Luke_AZ · Jan 29, 2010

Fuel Sending Unit (1st gen)

Great write-up!

Here's the recall Info:

=====================================

RECALL: 2000 - 2003 Nissan XTerra
NHTSA Campaign Number: 04V230000
www.nhtsa.dot.gov

Manufacturer NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Recall Date: 05/24/2004
Potential Number Of Units Affected: 586196
Description FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY : FUEL PUMP

Summary

ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH SIX CYLINDER ENGINES AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH FOUR OR SIX CYLINDER ENGINES, THE FUEL PUMP TERMINAL ON THE FUEL-SENDING UNIT CAN DEVELOP A CRACK IN THE PLASTIC MOLDING. THIS CAN CAUSE THE TERMINAL STRIP TO CORRODE UNDER SOME ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS.

Consequence

IF CORROSION OCCURS, THE TERMINAL STRIP COULD EVENTUALLY BREAK CAUSING THE FUEL PUMP TO STOP OPERATION. THIS WILL RESULT IN NOT BEING ABLE TO START THE ENGINE OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING, WHICH CAN RESULT IN A CRASH.

Remedy

IN THE FOLLOWING STATES, DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FUEL-SENDING UNIT. THESE STATES ARE CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, TENNESSEE, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. IN THE OTHER STATES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE FUEL PUMP TERMINAL ON THE SENDING UNIT FOR CORROSION. IF CORROSION IS PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL REPLACE THE UNIT. IF THERE IS NOT CORROSION, THE DEALER WILL APPLY SEALANT TO THE TERMINAL HOUSING TO HELP PREVENT CORROSION IN THE FUTURE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON JUNE 28, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261.

Silver Dude · Jan 29, 2010

Right but I and two to three others have been told they will only replace it once. Thanks for the better TSB report though the one I posted was weak but all I could find on Google.

Nd4SpdSe · Feb 10, 2010

Question tho...where the fuel pump in that assembly?

patatesboy · Apr 5, 2010

OMG MAN I JUST CALLED NISSAN

apparently my car doesnt qualify for this recall, they said my alloy wheels need to be changed and something else. Im down for new alloy wheels, would they be pissed if theyre painted?

SilverZero · Aug 2, 2010

Brilliant write-up. Of course, I already pulled everything out (including the fuel pump - couldn't get the hoses disconnected) before I found this, but my leads on my FSU are definitely corroded. I hope I can get a free replacement, but if not at least I know what to replace and that it won't cost me TOO much to do myself.

Silver Dude · Aug 2, 2010

Yeah if I happens again I might just drill two holes through the plastic cover poke the wires through, silicone and run new weatherpack connectors. $95 for a part that will probably fail again seems silly looking back. But, I guess you know its safe and that is worth some cash just for the piece of mind.

Fuel pump is mounted at the bottom of the tank.

morpheus · Aug 2, 2010

Only thing to add to that writeup, is to carefully inspect the area where the o-ring sits on the top of the fuel tank.

Your pictures above show that it looks in great condition, almost like brand new, however I've seen trucks that the rust has penetrated all the way underneath the rubber o-ring.

You'll need to clean that rust very carefully, and inspect it for pin-hole's through into the tank, or worse.

If it's really bad, you may need to replace the fuel tank too, or try to repair the spots with some jb weld.

If it's left, it will result in evap leak codes.

waterboy811 · Aug 25, 2010

Removing Large Hose

Great post on replacing the FSU. I have broken it down and apart very quickly but as always with one of my projects i have hit a snag that turned a half hour project into a research endeavor. I was able to connect all of the hoses very easily except the one that does not have the colored tabs to squeeze in for removal. I can for the life of me get the last one off and i cant make out anything on it that looks like a release for it. I see two little plastic tabs on the side that appear to be a part of removing it but am having no luck. any help and my bloody knuckles would appreciate it.

Thanks

bryanlee1981 · Mar 11, 2011

Im having the same problem with the last wire on the underside. Can't get the thing off. Anyone have any ideas? I'm sure it's something simple.

TKDX00 · Mar 26, 2011

Being new to this site i'm getting my feet wet. Saw this write-up and had to comment. I've done this (w/o the help of a write-up) and this info is on the money. Great job. Just 1 side note... Make sure all your hoses stay connected BEFORE you close everthing up.

granitex · Mar 26, 2011

Funny thing, I just replaced my fuel pump yesterday. Once you get the sending unit out, the clip that releases the pump was interesting to get off. Lets just say you need a long pry bar, or two hands in the bottom of the tank.

TKDX00 · Mar 27, 2011

No SH*T...keep in mind, nothin about me is small especially my hands. Granite...send me a link so I can see the rear bumper/carrier you did.

jaybo · Jul 9, 2011

I'm in the middle of replacing the fuel tank and pump. I noticed that nobodt got around to explaining the method of detaching that last line from the bottom of the sender. The one with the funny tabs and no squeeze clips. Unfortunately, I had to "work" it off with a couple small flatheads and I'm pretty sure I ruined the connector in the process. I'm hoping the fuel pump that I'm picking up today comes with all new lines. If anyone can explain how to get that last connection off, it may help pthers to avoid the same result. I may be headed to the dealer for this new line.

SeXterra2000 · Sep 5, 2011

wait.....where the heck is the fuel pump???

Silver Dude · Sep 5, 2011

Inside the tank mounted to the bottom. You can see it once the sender is out but I don't have pictures.

wskboarderx · Sep 5, 2011

Yeah the easier way to do this is bring it in for the recall. They also gave me a new gas tank for free when I went in two years ago.

I guess if it fails a second time time this thread would be good to help us do it ourselves.

One complaint about having Nissan do the work was I never had a problem with my X and after they replaced the sending unit my gas gauge became WAY off. When I fill up the gauge reads past full. It drops just below full when I actually have half a tank. It read half at about a quarter and than drops real fast after that.

kolkanee · Sep 24, 2011

Hey everyone, this is my first post on the site. I just got an xterra and found that the fuel gauge only goes up halfway. Thought it might be a problem with sending unit. So I just finished replacing it and noticed that there is a box around the fuel pump that seems to be interfering with the wiper travel on the sending unit. It's making it difficult to remove and install the unit as well, but i managed to fit the new one in. Has anyone else had this problem or know what to do about it?

SeXterra2000 · Sep 24, 2011

kolkanee said:
Hey everyone, this is my first post on the site. I just got an xterra and found that the fuel gauge only goes up halfway. Thought it might be a problem with sending unit. So I just finished replacing it and noticed that there is a box around the fuel pump that seems to be interfering with the wiper travel on the sending unit. It's making it difficult to remove and install the unit as well, but i managed to fit the new one in. Has anyone else had this problem or know what to do about it?

yea I had that problem too. when I gassed up to a full tank, it only said I had 3/4. apparently the shop installed it wrong and had to do it again. sometimes if goes all the way to empty, then back to where it really is. its really annoying.

kolkanee · Sep 25, 2011

So they fixed the problem? I'm wondering if that fuel pump and box was installed incorrectly, or did I just install the sending unit wrong (again). Does anyone else know of any other options? I just want the fuel gauge to read properly. I have a small case of OCD about this lol

granitex · Sep 25, 2011

kolkanee said:
So they fixed the problem? I'm wondering if that fuel pump and box was installed incorrectly, or did I just install the sending unit wrong (again). Does anyone else know of any other options? I just want the fuel gauge to read properly. I have a small case of OCD about this lol

I would put money on you doing it wrong, the plastic box in the bottom of the tank is part of the tank. it is never removed when doing the fuel pump or sending unit. For the fuel pump there is really only one way for it to go in. The sending unit can be touchie in how it goes in. The first timethat I did mine it was a serious pain to do. The second time that I did it the thing slid right into place. The trick is that it goes straight in, not at an angle then twisted to place.

SeXterra2000 · Sep 25, 2011

well this is the 2nd time I have had the shop look at it and "fix" it. whenever I turn the X on, it says I'm on empty, then it SLOOOOOWLY goes up to the amount I supposedly have. Dangerous fault when I do a lot of trail riding.....problem still isnt fixed.

kolkanee · Sep 27, 2011

Thanks, that's exactly what I wanted to know. I'll try to re-install it once the tank has a little less gas in it.

emmdock · Feb 1, 2012

I'm in the middle of this right now and am stuck on the hose inside the tank that goes to the front of the sender - the one without a nice squeeze clip to remove it. Does anyone know how this one comes off? I don't want to pry on the wrong thing and have to replace the hose.

It's the hose closest to the camera in this pic stolen from the first post:

1911fan · Jul 2, 2015

If anyone is doing this now, that fuel line with the different connector is a real mother in law. When you look you'll notice is has four ears, two kinda stick out and two are kinda recessed. The ones that kinda stick out: push the bottom in and the top will pop out and should just stay there unless you bump them and knock them back in. The two that are recessed: I think you have to use a special tool for those really, but if you can pry the tops back away from the housing, the connector should slide off. I got so frustrated that I just snapped the nipple off, removed the FSU and worked the nipple end out of the connector. Why in the crap didn't they make that connector the same as the others?

HOW TO- Replace the fuel sending unit (1st gen)

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