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How to: Xterra Rear Speaker Install

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12K views 47 replies 23 participants last post by  RacerXXL  
#1 · (Edited)
Xterra Rear Speaker Install
Approx. time: 15min - 20min.
Skill level: EASY


Step one: Copy and print the installation sheet (image) below. I received the instructions from Crutchfield

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Food for thought; Use a flathead screwdriver and your hands to remove the plastic panels & DO NOT forget to remove the Phillips screw where the cargo cover hanger is located, as well as the plastic retaining clips which should be removed carefully.


Here are pictures I took of my progress.

Panel removed:

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6" x 9" Speaker I used:

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12V power supply connections:

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12V power supply connection closeup:

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Speaker wire adapter & instructions that Crutchfield will supply to you WHEN asked for:

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Speaker wire adapter partially* attached to the OEM wiring
*I showed the connections partially attached to show a clarity between the OEM wire connection & the wire adapter connection

Also note the wire adapter connections to the speaker itself.

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Short video of speaker playing after installed. I took this with my phones video camera.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/rattfink31/GREEN%20MONSTER/VID00009-20100117-1053.flv">
 
#10 ·
miskywhisky said:
Just pay real close attention to the depth of the speaker because i know first hand there are a lot that don't fit. And the wall behind it is your sheet metal so theres little room to give.
Click to expand...
yeah, i was figuring i'd have to fab something up to give it alittle more room, I just never thought about putting a sub there, i hate the idea of losing cargo space
 
M
#11 ·
Not that, i mean the 6x9's. I went through 3 sets before i got some that fit. First were just plain too deep. 2nd were right there but when bass would hit the metal would rattle against the back of the speaker. 3rd i got a foam baffle, put it in then used some small plastic washers to space it out a bit and the tweeters just miss the grille.
 
#13 ·
rawkerstatus said:
the power outlet clip can be hard to remove.. Dont use a screwdriver to try n pry it out. You'll blow the fuse. Need to have a 2nd set of hands
Click to expand...

lol!!
 
#14 ·
RockMozart13 said:
nice write-up, this is a fix thats been on my list too long, just out of curiosity, how big would you say is the rectangular opening below the speaker?

might be a half decent place to put sub if it was done properly.


...

how many watts are those?
Click to expand...

I was thinking that area would be great for an Amplifier.
 
#17 ·
just a quick FYI too, on the 1st gens you don't need to take the panel the whole way out. pop up the trim along the hatch "hook", pull out the pin on the lower right interior panel (near the top along hatch opening.. it's one of those pin inside of "clip" deals so you pull the middle part and it will come out), undo the screw where the rear cover mounts as this will give you a bit more room without the pressure. pull panel out and you'll have enough room to get a ratchet + 8mm in there to unbolt factory speakers and mount new ones. The only way this won't work is if the screw holes for the new 6x9's are too far off and you have to tap holes in the sheet metal, then you'll have to completely remove to make enough room to work.
 
G
#19 ·
Just want to say thanks again for this write-up. It came in handy this afternoon when I installed my new speakers.

I can't believe the factory 6x9s are only rated at 50w max, most modern aftermarket head units will quickly top them out. I pulled my panels completely out and covered all the metal with sound deadening, for a little better SQ. I also had to clip and re-connect the wire for the rear power outlet because that damn plug just wouldn't give up it's death grip. I hate cutting wires but you gotta do what you gotta do.
 
#22 ·
"I can't believe the factory 6x9s are only rated at 50w max, most modern aftermarket head units will quickly top them out."

You're lucky, mine were rated for 20W max, which is still a heck of a lot more than most OEM speakers back then. Plus you have to remember, after market head units won't ever run that high. Most are 10-14 watts RMS, the max really doesn't mean anything. (That's most solid amps are say 500 max/250 rms, while lesser amps such as Sony's are 1200 Max, 375 rms). Trying to get 52 watts out of just an OEM head unit will lead to major distortion, and it wouldn't be the OEM speaker (or just the OEM speaker) that'd be causing it. The amp in OEM head units are tiny, and lack the caps to store any real amount of power. This causes the output from the source its self to distort a lot.
 
#24 ·
If you don't get the adapters for the speakers from Crutchfield, all you have to do is cut off the plastic connector on the end and wire them up. Black is the ground. You can splice small sections of speaker wire in if you can't get enough slack out of the stock wires.
 
#25 ·
RIXterra said:
Anyone swap out speakers and keep the factory head unit? Just wondering if the sound got better or not.
Click to expand...
My trucks got infintys in it I dont think those came stock on the 2000 SE but i could be wrong... (its got leather with Xtreme Xterra on the seats)

i mean they are cool with the stock head unit but im not really gaining anything lol

I mean i tried researching them and nothing came up on them

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yes ik these are the fronts but i lost the pics of when i dissasembeled the back

number says 632.1i or 652.1i i forgot and pic is blurry couldnt find anything on them

THis could be a help or a thread jack lol which ever it is either your welcome or i apologize u may have your thread back lol
 
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