Nissan XTerra Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
2004 Xterra 4WD Non-Supercharged 3.3L 6Cyl
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently had a lot of issues with my 2004 xterra 4WD non-supercharged 3.3L 6cyl *but as of yesterday I got most of it fixed I believe other than cleaning the egr valve. Other than that though I am having an interesting and troublesome issue.

Relating to transmission, I have had ongoing codes 731 and 732 and ongoing inability to shift out of first gear. I cannot go beyond 1500 rpms at all.

I forget the name of the transmission diagnostic computer but someone mentioned it here and how to use the diagnostic computer and the dashboard lights to get a specific reading on what part/parts are causing the transmission failure. I followed those procedures to a T 5 times with my father, a master mechanic, on the phone reading me off the steps from the website as I did them so I didn't have to read as I did the steps... I could just listen and do at the same time so there was no time for mistakes since some items on the list were time sensitive. Everything was dead on. Each time, the dash board light in question (this was about a month ago so I forget the details) stayed solid instead of blinking the trouble code/s. From what I have read this may indicate that the transmission control module (diagnostic computer), or whatever it was called, may itself have gone bad. That module going bad from what I have also read can cause trouble changing gears and other problems I was having But I don't know how to go about checking to see if that transmission module is bad or not, or if it is bad how to go about changing it out. I know that it is located behind the radio. I have the factory radio so I expect if I have to change it out, I'm probably going to have to take apart the whole dashboard to get the radio out. It seems that way with this truck. They put everything in your way to fix something simple. I love the truck but overall I have had issues since July and by now it's causing marital issues because my wife can't go to her doctors so she's mad. She has a permanent lifelong pain-inducing illness that doctor's ignored for years and late last year and famous rheumatologist said no you bozos she has this and I can prove it and all the sudden the insurance companies started paying for her treatments and doctors started listening and then boom I can't get her to the doctor's anymore because of the truck being broken down and we literally don't know anyone between savannah ga and the NW mountains of GA outside of TN so no one can give her a lift other than uber and they want money we don't have. So the pressure is on and keeps building. At least yesterday was a BIG win. Thanks to a bunch of you folks here in another thread, I was able to solve a huge part of the problem and got the truck from not starting at all to running like a champ.

As a side note, speaking of running like a champ... It will Not shift gears or go above 1500 rpms in Drive, 2nd Gear or 3rd Gear. It will however, go to at least 4,500 rpms (I did not push higher) in park and neutral. It will go into reverse and drive smoothly, it simply will not go with any speed at all.

Before it started having the no start issue, it had no codes other than codes that it had had for 2 months. Then my daughter took the truck knowing it wasn't fully fixed and honestly, I don't know what she did, but she came home said it won't make it up the drive way... fix it. This after I had it almost completely fixed at the time. That was two months ago. I told my wife the truck was partially fixed and driving slowly and somehow my daughter took that as wow I can take the truck to work and hour away. Anyhow, it damaged the truck worse but after her ride I had no knew codes so my father said I needed to find out what the new codes were so I had to drive it until the new codes came up on the code reader.... bad bad bad bad idea I think now but I don't know enough to say he was wrong. There was a new code that came up, a single new code, one that said the cam sensor in the distributor had gone bad and I had to replace the distributor (the other thread that was fixed yesterday) BUT in the driving of the truck to get that code around the neighborhood several times, the truck backfired and misfired both and ended up jumping timing Way off to the point that it wouldn't start. It ended up not being that hard to fix but it had to do with getting several pieces all aligned up manually and the distributor rotor button/gears were the big issue. Anyhow, to get to the point, I dread the idea of having to drive the truck around again to get more codes and possibly damage the truck again in the process. That just seems counter-intuitive but I may not have any other options.

So my questions are this:
1) With the truck starting And running (and staying running just fine) what would cause it not to shift gears or go above 1500 rpms?
2) How can I go about troubleshooting that to verify that is the issue/s?
3) Could it really be the onboard transmission diagnostic module? If so, how can I verify whether that is bad or good?
4) I have read that you can Reset the Transmission Control Module (found the name lol) but it's different for each vehicle. How do you reset it for this vehicle?
5) Is there a way to get more codes to come out without driving the truck and "forcing" them out?

I appreciate all the help very much you folks have been a real wonder
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Take it to autozone get the scanner, plug it, go back in they will give you the codes on a reciept
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra 4WD Non-Supercharged 3.3L 6Cyl
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Xtre, since the codes I had were pre-new distributor they suggested clearing the codes and then letting the engine warm up and then tried getting new codes. All they got was a 328. No code relating to why I can't change gears or increase rpms.

Dkarch78. The mass flow sensor isn't brand new but is recently cleaned thoroughly and since I was at Oriely's (that was where I went Xtre since Autozone's scanner has been stolen) I had them look it over and check it. They said the mass flow sensor was fine. I had considered that that might be the problem as well. Man I wish that was the answer so badly lol.

My father has me trying to check the knock sensor since I have a 328 code and since it says it can reduce rpms and speed as well BUT I even though I found the correct wiring harness for the 328 knock sensor no video that I have found actually shows you which wired to test! everyone's hands are in the way so you can't see what they are doing and they don't describe it well at all. One gent says a large thick grey wire and someone else says a yellow and grey wire but they won't say what readings I should get and one of them is using an advanced scanner Not a multimeter and he's more about selling the scanner than actually changing the knock sensor or so it seems. The scanner doesn't tell me a thing so his video is worthless and the other video guy's got his camera behind his hand's when using the multimeter on the wiring harness so you don't see him actually test anything. You see his range on his meter go up but not what his leads touch. Thats what I need to know and what range I need to reach to know it's bad or good.

Ever since July I have had a 328 code... so right from the very beginning of all of this nightmare and it has been a nightmare so maybe the issue is the knock sensor.

Does anyone know what wiring inside the harness I need to touch with the leads to test for the 328 code and what range would be a verified working knock sensor? I would greatly appreciate that knowledge?
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
Joined
·
1,794 Posts
Since yours is not supercharged, the 328 is not an issue. You can reposition or bypass the knock sensor and get the same result as ignoring the code.
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra 4WD Non-Supercharged 3.3L 6Cyl
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My dad read you can bypass the knock sensor with a 560K resistor is that correct? Is that what you are talking about? What wires would we use to bypass?
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra 4WD Non-Supercharged 3.3L 6Cyl
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I found a great video on how to reposition and bypass it. Thank you very much. Now it's just getting the money to get a new knock sensor.
 

·
Registered
2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
Joined
·
1,794 Posts
The point is actually the opposite.

PO328 does not need to be fixed to get it to crank, start, or run well. It's like saying there's a fly on the windshield of the shuttle during re-entry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Wat did your transmission maintenance look like? every 15k drain and fill for me, mercon 3 (I have a 2000 so I can get away with saying that) every 4th engine oil change tranny filter and poor man's flush.

Code P0732
When the code P0732 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Powertrain Computer or PCM is seeing a greater than a specified RPM difference between the rotational speed of the Input RPM Sensor and the Transmission Output RPM Sensor when the vehicle is in 2nd gear. This can occur during shifting or when driving at steady speeds. It often implies that the transmission is slipping.
Translation: in second gear the material on the clutches is gone and they aint coming back without a rebuild.

P0731 NISSAN code description This diagnosis monitors actual gear position by checking the torque converter slip ratio calculated by Transmission Control Module (TCM) as follows: Torque converter slip ratio = A x C/B A: Output shaft revolution signal from revolution sensor B: Engine speed signal from Engine Control Module (ECM) C: Gear ratio determined as gear position which TCM supposes If the actual gear position is higher than the position (1st) supposed by TCM, the slip ratio will be more than normal. In case the ratio exceeds the specified value, TCM judges this diagnosis malfunction.
Translation: in first gear the material on the clutches is gone and they aint coming back without a rebuild.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top