Nissan XTerra Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
my 3 inch lift got here finally and I was wondering about some of the other parts around there that would be good to replace or give some tlc to. bushings, ball joints... the whole damn lca?! it's an 03 xterra .. had for 5 yrs (80K) and never had them changed or greased. I was hoping to just get new T-bars and call it good w the new left kit. But now I'm thinking lca bushings and ball joints or new Lca's all together.
What you guys think??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,824 Posts
Assuming you are 4wd, getting down to the lower ball joint/LCA is kind of a pain. Personally if you don't have any looseness or noises, I wouldn't mess with them. And the bushings are even more of a pain than the ball joints since they are almost always seized.

Then again, if you like to go to a lot of effort for preventative maintenance, you sure could. Having the upper control arms off gets some of the labor out of the way, but not the majority of it.

THinking back on it, I wish I would have put in different upper ball joints than come with the arms. THey are notorious for failing very early. Mine are good a couple years later but they leak grease like crazy. You want to buy some for a hardbody... you'll have to search to see what year range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I Have 03 xterra. . Here's my thought process.. new ucas, Lca's and torsion bars. . Take off and replace all at once. New front end suspension! Toe rods and steering lil later. My assumption is while I'm there, replace it all not to mention I don't need to try and save anything.
Budget and time have to wait but within 2 weeks I'll have all new parts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So got the sway aways in today and was wondering how I should go about putting it on.. torsion bars then ucas and all or vise versa?
Any tips or suggestions? !
 

·
Sage Mentor/Moderator
Joined
·
12,216 Posts
So got the sway aways in today and was wondering how I should go about putting it on.. torsion bars then ucas and all or vise versa?
Any tips or suggestions? !
Well, the bars go INTO the LCA, so, it makes more sense to put them in the NEW LCA, than to put them in the old one, take thm out of the old one, then put them back into the new one....etc,

If lifting it...you do an alignment afterwards...so, you only do ONE alignment if you wait.

>:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Haha.. indeed, it all makes sense. I start the tbars at 0* so to speak then tighten, raise the front as Needed to match front, yeah?
 

·
Sage Mentor/Moderator
Joined
·
12,216 Posts
Match back not front, sorry
Nope.

You insert the bars with the finger (lever) hanging down at some off-vertical angle, depending on your rig weight/bar stiffness, etc...perhaps 45 degrees, give or take, etc...

...then crank the adjuster to suck the finger back up into the cross member, far enough so the finger won't catch on stuff below, etc.

DON'T make the front/back the same height on a PML...you WANT the rake you were supposed to have when you started to be preserved...so, the front should be ~ 1.5" lower than the rear.

If you adjust the front lift, so after its settled in, the UPPER bump stop clearance is at least 1/2" - 3/4", you got it where you want it.

The larger the gap at that stop, the LESS lift...but if you go smaller than ~ 1/2 - 3/4" of gap, you get bad tire edge wear, etc, because it will go beyond the adjustment range for your wheel alignment.

This also applies with the 3" SL kit's UCA. They are shaped to pull the upper tire back inboard, so, they too, work with that same gap clearance as an alignment limit..even though you will have the front up 3" instead of the PML's ~ 1.5".


So, basically, don't worry about the rear lift when adjusting the front. DO the rear lift first if you can, because raising it changes the front alignment/final lift height adjustment.

IE: The rear lift is from the shackles and/or AAL, its not adjustable (unless the shackles are, etc), so the rear is a fixed variable.

The FRONT is 100% adjustable...so set the rear, then, adjust the front.


Crank up the finger into the cross member util, when its down, resting on the tires, and you've driven it around a bit to settle it, the upper bumps stop gap is ~ 1/2" or more...but less then ~ 3/4" if you want the most lift.




>:D
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top