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Nice. Now, clearcoat them (UV stable paint) (yes, paint) let cure, then high quality wax every 6 months should last for years...
 
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2006 Nissan Xterra, 3" lift, full armor
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509 Posts
I detailed (the inside anyway) my ride after hitting Peters Mill Trail up here in VA. I took the seats out and started cleaning this nonsense
 

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beautiful, very well done
noticed a lot of people have been adding winches recently. saw an X the other day at the walmart parking lot with a winch installed, didn’t look properly done. looked like two metal arms welded onto the frame of the X, then mounted onto the sides of the winch. stock bumper was still on, but had slits in it to allow the metal arms to pass through. was slightly sagging and was off centered
 

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2006 Nissan Xterra, 3" lift, full armor
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509 Posts
beautiful, very well done
noticed a lot of people have been adding winches recently. saw an X the other day at the walmart parking lot with a winch installed, didn’t look properly done. looked like two metal arms welded onto the frame of the X, then mounted onto the sides of the winch. stock bumper was still on, but had slits in it to allow the metal arms to pass through. was slightly sagging and was off centered
thanks man! luckily the Hardcore Offroad bumper was pretty fool-proof and already had the holes pre-drilled for the standard hole spacing of most winches. the hardest part was routing the cables through and around the radiator and between the front clip. I may go back with silicone/rubber sleeving since all the power and ground cables look like they may rub during bumpy off-roading and I don't want to short it out in case it eats through the cable sleeve. Thing claims to be 13,000 lbs, and these synthetic ropes claim anywhere from 8000-15000 lb tensile strength. All things considered I seriously hope to ever test their fill capabilities LOL
 

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2002 Nissan Xterra SE 3.3
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73 Posts
2004 HVAC bulbs: 1 burnt out, 1 missing. Used tiny LED bulbs in wedge sockets that I hot-glued in place and soldered to the board. Each bulb has 3 LED chips.

Red heat shrink on end of each bulb to reduce light output. I used these same bulbs in my former 2001. They were a bit too bright, but not enough to take it apart again.

View attachment 79304
I did the same but i put a blue 168 bulb in my gear indicator housing
 

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2000 4wd 3.3L AT
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110 Posts
I've been tracking down a vacuum leak. I think it's coming from the brake power booster. It's bad when cold, but after the engine warms up, the brake pedal feels firm.

Besides that I ordered AC torsion bars, manual locking hubs, redoing my diy alignment, and adjusting my steering play this weekend.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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2,733 Posts
Are you changing out the thermostat and coolant lines too?
I replaced the t-stat several months ago to get more heat inside the cab. Not sure if I'll put in a colder one or not as it does not overheat no matter how many beans I give it.

Yes, heater hoses, vacuum hoses — everything rubber that I can access — is on the list. When I did the t-belt in my 2001 it got as many hoses as I could reach and a new t-stat. Now I have a 2004.

I've been tracking down a vacuum leak. I think it's coming from the brake power booster. It's bad when cold, but after the engine warms up, the brake pedal feels firm.

Besides that I ordered AC torsion bars, manual locking hubs, redoing my diy alignment, and adjusting my steering play this weekend.
Pull the vacuum hose from the booster and plug the hose. Start the engine. Does it suddenly run better? If so, the booster may have issues; if not, I'd suspect the hose or some other device.
 

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01 Xterra 4x4
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59 Posts
I've been tracking down a vacuum leak. I think it's coming from the brake power booster. It's bad when cold, but after the engine warms up, the brake pedal feels firm.

Besides that I ordered AC torsion bars, manual locking hubs, redoing my diy alignment, and adjusting my steering play this weekend.
Don't know if you're aware, the preload adjuster and lock nut on the steering box are left handed threads. The job went a lot easier for me once I realized that, lol.
 

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2000 4wd 3.3L AT
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110 Posts
I replaced the t-stat several months ago to get more heat inside the cab. Not sure if I'll put in a colder one or not as it does not overheat no matter how many beans I give it.

Yes, heater hoses, vacuum hoses — everything rubber that I can access — is on the list. When I did the t-belt in my 2001 it got as many hoses as I could reach and a new t-stat. Now I have a 2004.
That's good. We recently took our other car to the junkyard because of a P0420 and overheating problem. My better half took it to a shop for a timing belt and water pump job on it (this was when we did not live together), but it still ended up overheating after sometime. Their work order didn't mention anything about the thermostat. At first I thought that the bad cat was making it overheat. Well, the day we turned it on to take it to the junkyard, we realized the cat was gone. It still overheated on the way there. I'm thinking it was the thermostat. Would've been an easy fix, but with the bad cat and the fact that it had 278K miles, it was time to put the car down. Pour one out for Jr.

Pull the vacuum hose from the booster and plug the hose. Start the engine. Does it suddenly run better? If so, the booster may have issues; if not, I'd suspect the hose or some other device.
I will try that out. When I start, RPM stays at about 2k for a sec and then goes down to normal idle after some time. When I step on the brake pedal, I hear air escaping with a cold engine. I can still hear it, but it isn't as severe when the engine warms up. I recently replaced the hose, but I think I got the wrong size. I could not find any sizing information so I got what looked like the right size. I ordered an OEM line with a built in check valve from z1 so we shall see if that fixes it. If not, a new master cylinder it is.
 

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2000 4wd 3.3L AT
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110 Posts
Don't know if you're aware, the preload adjuster and lock nut on the steering box are left handed threads. The job went a lot easier for me once I realized that, lol.
Thank you for the tip. There was only one video I found on the adjustment of nissan frontier steering box. Man it was confusing. The audio and video said one thing, but then he overlayed text that said the opposite. My brain shut down and I decided I would just figure it out this weekend 😂
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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2,733 Posts
I went shopifying at the bestest place for pieces-parts. Found the most important stuff on my list, but not everything. (I think I set the bar too high this time, but ya gotta reach for sumpthin, eh? ;))
  • 4 of the thinner Husky floor mats plus the cargo mat.
  • Both running boards (I call 'em Nerf bars - might not be the same...).
  • Center caps: 2 painted black, 1 still factory — I needed just the solid one for the back wheel, so now I'll have to find a way to remove the paint and not hurt the stock finish, I hope.
  • 2 fog lights for 2002-2004 style bumper cover.
  • Map light assembly.
  • Both tensioner brackets (with 1 tensioner pulley) from the V6. I might be able to use them when modifying to add an electric water pump motor.
  • Center vent assembly.
  • Replacement instrument cluster lens (clear) that I broke when replacing my dash light bulbs. (Not shown.)
  • Alternate style of instrument cluster faceplate, since I need to get in there anyhow and change where the needles are pointing. (Not shown.)
  • Both front seat belts (for another member). (Not shown.)
  • 2 tailgate latch cover trim pieces (for another member).
  • Rear mud flaps, with all of the screws. (Not shown.)
  • 5 of the 6 plastic clips to attach the lower and upper trim around the tailgate. (Not shown.)
  • SCORE! Original Xterra First Aid bag with what may be the original, stock contents!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Includes all 4 straps.)


Just so y'all know that I know that y'all know that the running boards and mud flaps are not likely to last very long when 4-wheelin'. I don't 4-wheel very much at all, and having those running boards on the 2001 that I used to own was so convenient. Each one is 4 bolts at the frame, and the mud flaps take 5 screws each. For the rare times that I'll take it off-road, I will consider removing them so they don't die an ugly death. (Or just be careful...?)
 

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Added a new light bar and switch panel this week.

  • Rugged Ridge X-Clamps
  • 32 inch Rigidhorse single row light bar. 300 watt/30,000 lumens. Not sure if the lumens metric is correct but the bloody thing is bright for a single row light.
  • Auxbeam 6 gang switch panel. So I can add even more lights!

The 32 inch light bar fit almost perfectly with the X-Clamps in this set up. I wonder if the mounting bracket might be a bit too tall but I still think it's a good fit. Two added benefits with the location. No wind noise or whistling at highway speed and no hood glare.

I just notice my neighbor's X in a couple of the photos!



 
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