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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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I was able to get a 6-circuit fuse box wired up and installed on the driver's fender. There's a bracket with the emissions valve on it and it has a lot of extra room compared to anywhere else under the hood. When it's done, there'll be a manually-resettable circuit breaker near the battery that provides power to a distribution block that is mounted behind the new fuse box. It has 6 individual wires are providing power to the 6 fuses, so each circuit isn't daisy-chained with any other. Then each fuse runs to a relay. I ran 14-ga from the distro block to the fuses, and from the fuses to the relays. The NO and NC from the relays are also 14-ga, and the coils are 16-ga. If I had some 18-ga I'd use that for the coils, but I don't...

Each circuit has its own split loom with red for NC and white for NO, plus one of 6 different colors for the coil. Both coil wires are the same color since they're not polarized. This aids in identifying which circuit is which when it comes time to finish hooking it all up.

The wires are just hanging loose for now, including the main power wire, which is about 12 feet of twin 10-ga wires. Nobody in town had 8-ga or 6-ga! Covid has really messed things up, eh?

My plan is to have six 3-way rocker switches in a small box above the inside mirror where the previous owner left 2 studs from a CB radio. The 6 circuits will be 4 fans (trans cooler, AC, and 2 on the radiator) plus some Diode Dynamic amber fogs on the front and white fogs cut into the rear end caps. Each switch will have its own indicator light: the 4 fans will be red, fog lights amber, and reverse lights blue.

Switch positions will be Auto - Off - On for all circuits except the front fog lights. I might change my mind and wire them to come on with the low beams in the Auto position, but that seems like overkill. The reverse lights I plan to wire so that Auto turns them on with the normal reverse lights, and On will be enabled only when in P or N, which will make it impossible to turn them on while in drive.

I'm still waiting on some of my electrical parts to arrive, so I'll work toward getting the fans and trans cooler mounted next weekend. We're expecting a wet week so my plans could change.

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I've started turning mine into a "Vinyl Whore". LOTS of stickers on both quarter glasses, starting to do the rear glass, as well... (where did you get that box from, again?)
 
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Made the L-bracket out of aluminum diamond plate for the 40A circuit breaker. Gonna mount it between battery and radiator support.

Nobody said it had to be pretty, just functional. I'll round the corners a bit more later on. Yes, the holes line up. Mostly. Kinda.

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Yep. The nice, highly water resistant, fully potted 6 circuit fuse and relay protected box. THAT one...
Where'd you get it?
 

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Yep. The nice, highly water resistant, fully potted 6 circuit fuse and relay protected box. THAT one...
Where'd you get it?
As requested, sir:


Another great source of electrical items is Del City:

 

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I thank you, however, my wallet condemns you, sir. :)
 

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Yay! The twin 12" fans are mounted and an electrical test showed that they spin as expected.

I still need to tighten up all the bolts. The vertical bars are ¾" square steel tubing with a short spacer between them and the body. The angles are 1½" x 1½" and the flat strap is 1½". All fasteners are stainless ¼-20, with a flat washer on both sides of the attachment. A few bolts had to be cut for clearance.

Driver's side vertical bar.

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Passenger's side vertical bar. Wire above AC line was re-routed.

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View from passenger's side, engine bay toward front of vehicle. Overflow bottle moved about ½ to ¾" to clear new hardware. Had to drill new hole in bottom for locating nipple.

I need to trim the strap on passenger's side. Using 1 original shroud bolt/screw into plastic tank just because the strap went over it. It's nearly stripped, so there's no real help there.


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View from front.

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Looking pretty good, there. I will be looking forward to your "report" on how the fan set up is working during this hot (ish) summer.
 
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I got my pedal set swapped out for the upcoming switch over 5 spd, 4wd from auto, 2wd. Hopefully, in the couple of weeks, I'll get the swap done. I'm heading to the P&P yards this coming memorial weekend, so, here's hoping for some great (parts) hunting!
 
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Well, no pictures this time, but I tightened up all of the fasteners for the frame and used thread locker on all of them.

I added a third 10 gauge wire to the run from the battery to the new fuse box and installed the 40A breaker.

I cut a section out of the upper hose for the sensor adapter. When I installed the sensor into the adaptor, I did so without any thread sealant, thinking it needed a good contact for ground. Started the engine to get some pressure on the system and the sensor has a small drip.

Since the sun was going down, I just ran the wires straight over to the fuse box to be fully automatic until I have time to wire in the switch panel inside. I added all 6 relays and fuses, then grounded the signal wire to test for function. One fan kept turning but the other stopped. It seems that I blew the 15A fuse! Then the second one blew. Silly me, the SPAL paperwork even says to use a 30A fuse for each. Not sure what I was thinking. Couldn't find any that size so I'll just get some at the parts store.

My question:
It's a brass sensor and aluminum adaptor. Would it be better to use tape or paste sealant?
 
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