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2000 SE 4x4 M/T 3.3L
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Had to remove my 1st gen AC rear bumper / tire carrier in order to truss, straighten out, fix broken welds/cracks around the receiver hitch....5000 lb rated class III my butt. Beware, hitch is not braced or trussed worth a shit.
 

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2001 Xterra se
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8 Posts
I posted these pics in my thread but few looked at it so here they are again. All my alternator bolts were broken off in that crazy heavy bracket so.....
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drilled it out to 21/64th and...
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bam! One bolt straight thru. Take that rust! Also took this amazing opportunity to gut all the AC stuff as it has never worked, without the condenser, lines and radiator there anymore there's alot of room to work. One less belt and bracket.
 

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1994 Long bed truck; 2000 SE Xterra
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8 Posts
Replaced the fuel filter on my 2000 last night. The fuel line was deteriorated horribly, so I replaced it with some fuel line from a spool that I already had. Did fine in the garage, but it ruptured going down the road and left me stranded. Going out to the auto parts stores soon to try and find a high-pressure line to replace the busted one with.

Just a comment: I really liked how the Nissan Hardbody had the fuel filter conveniently located in the engine bay. The Frontiers and Xterras are really difficult to access if you don't have a vehicle lift, and the gasoline pours all over your face while changing the filter even if you try draining the fuel by running the engine with the fuel pump fuse pulled because the filter is located below the top of the fuel tank. It just drains all over you. Hose clamps help, but not if you have to replace the hose.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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1,613 Posts
I finished restoring both headlights on my '01 using this stuff (not hard at all!).

Then I went outside and made some more progress toward a new timing belt at 204,xxx miles. I don't know the age of the old one, so it was better to do it and not regret it later on. Kit came with oil seals for cams and crank, plus the rubber grommets for the timing cover. Nice touch! I also did the bypass hose while I was there, and have the 3 other radiator hoses ready when I button it up.

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I finished restoring both headlights on my '01 using this stuff (not hard at all!).

Then I went outside and made some more progress toward a new timing belt at 204,xxx miles. I don't know the age of the old one, so it was better to do it and not regret it later on. Kit came with oil seals for cams and crank, plus the rubber grommets for the timing cover. Nice touch! I also did the bypass hose while I was there, and have the 3 other radiator hoses ready when I button it up.

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Could you post a picture of your lower radiator hose? I’m about to do the timing belt job, but I found that rock auto has 2 different kinds of lower radiator hoses. 1 short rubber hose with a slight bend and another longer one with a few bends. I’ve already bought the timing belt and water pump but decided to get the hoses too.

Which one do you have? Did you also do the camshaft and crankshaft seals? How hard were those?
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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1,613 Posts
Could you post a picture of your lower radiator hose? I’m about to do the timing belt job, but I found that rock auto has 2 different kinds of lower radiator hoses. 1 short rubber hose with a slight bend and another longer one with a few bends. I’ve already bought the timing belt and water pump but decided to get the hoses too.

Which one do you have? Did you also do the camshaft and crankshaft seals? How hard were those?
Yes, I did the cam and crank seals, and the Aisin kit I ordered from RA came with them, plus 2 long, thin seals for the water pump-to-cover, as well as 12 rubber bushings for the cover bolts. Nice!

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Here's the radiator upside-down with the original hose. That white plug in the center is the drain.

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If you intend to replace all of the radiator hoses, you will need a total of 4 hoses. The small bent one goes from the t-stat to a pipe that is bolted to the cover, then to the radiator. The short one that is the smallest diameter (70982 in that image) was actually a molded hose that was cut to length. It is the bypass from the t-stat housing to the other outlet housing.

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You install the bypass hose behind the upper timing belt cover, so if you're doing the t-belt, do the bypass hose first, then install the rear cover, then the t-belt, etc. You can see it installed above the water pump, but only the bottom part. The other end goes to the housing whose outlet you see at the very top/center of the image.

You can also see the seals are installed. I put some lithium grease on them to keep them from being dry on the first start.

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I strongly recommend changing the bypass hose (the elbow off the top of the thermostat housing) when you get a chance. They get neglected and as such are a common leak spot.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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I strongly recommend changing the bypass hose (the elbow off the top of the thermostat housing) when you get a chance. They get neglected and as such are a common leak spot.
I agree 100%! When I did mine, I remarked to a buddy just how poorly designed it is, with it hidden behind the t-belt cover where it's almost impossible to inspect, and extremely difficult to work on.

After cutting my molded hose to the same length as the original, I installed it on the upper outlet with the spring clamp's ears facing up, then shoved it down onto the lower outlet and aimed those ears forward.

I have to say that the water pump design is less than stellar as well. To remove it, you have to remove the timing belt because the pump forms part of the side covers, and it's too long to snake it out. I just don't see or understand why it needs to be part of the cover, since the housing is just to keep most debris off of the timing belt. To add insult to injury, if the water pump leaks, the coolant pees right onto the belt, making it more likely that you'll want to replace it.

I guess no company or country has engineers with a monopoly on short-sightedness.
 

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replaced front coils and springs... wow, thankful for a friend with oxyacetelyne torch to slag the nuts on the original 2006 struts. Got to love that Canadian rust. The good side is it made installing cabin air filters (there were none!) and gas hood struts seem super easy.
 
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