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Discussion Starter #1
Please give me your experience with these. The Walker is much cheaper, and since I’m a broke college student again...
Who has had success or bad failure with the Walker O2? I’m gonna replace all sensors so it could be over $400 or less than $100.
I have an ‘07 with 316,000 miles.
 

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With something like an 02 sensor it’s always best to go OEM, but seeing as you have over 300,000 miles maybe you don’t expect too much more life? So an off brand wouldn’t be a bad idea. Where are you planning to purchase from? Sorry I don’t have experience with the second gen so not sure on a real recommendation
 

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Discussion Starter #3
With something like an 02 sensor it’s always best to go OEM, but seeing as you have over 300,000 miles maybe you don’t expect too much more life? So an off brand wouldn’t be a bad idea. Where are you planning to purchase from? Sorry I don’t have experience with the second gen so not sure on a real recommendation
Im finding them at RockAuto right now. Local parts stores are giving me options if $130 each.
 

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Yea I always use rock auto. So I was just checking on there and idk if you’re aware but you can’t buy 4 of those walker ones that are $29 and use them in all 4 slots. Just not sure how you got the math that it could be less than $100. What I’ve heard can be the case with aftermarket o2 sensors is that you can expect a year or two out of them. They could last plenty longer or be crap, and the OEM which I imagine is Bosch are guaranteed to last you a long time.
 

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Also, I have some walker exhaust pipes on my first gen and I like the way they sound! But they put the o2 sensor hole slightly off center to where it was on the OEM exhaust and it actually made it a pain in the ass to get the o2 sensor in, so while they make decent stuff it definitely ain’t perfect!
 

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I have walker catalysts and they fit ok, not great. I bought Bosch sensors off amazon for $45 each. Everything works great
 

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denso or ntk would be my picks ntk should be oem brand especially as yours is 2nd gen the sensors do far more like adjust timing and engine performace depending on readings back to computer so if you want the x to last as long as possible i'd go ntk. what prices where you seeing? i would for sure go ntk down stream as these are the ones that monitor that the cats are doing their job and allow the ecu to adjust. the upstreams are references if you want to save money get the best you can on down stream and save on upstream (downstream are behind cats upstream before them)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finding NTK Upstream for $108.79.
RockAuto says that it will work for upstream left OR right. The only code it’s tripping is Bank 1 Sensor 1. I think that’s Upstream Right, but correct me if I’m wrong.
Gonna check on Amazon as well before I order. But, I know local auto parts store was telling me $130 a piece.
 

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That's just saying it can work on either bank, wiring harness is same for both sensors and sensors are same and yes bank 1 sensor 1 should be passengerside of motor, sensor closer to motor before cat
 

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Here is exactly what the service manager of Tynans Nissan told me..
"Most parts are not from Nissan but rather a gray market manufacturer. I have seen parts last one day and need replaced"

with that being said, save some money and buy the auto parts store stuff. Forget OEM. And as a side note, I've been working on vehicles since I was 12... I'm 55 now and I rarely use OEM parts.
 

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That’s funny. I get parts from Tynan’s all the time. Be careful because aftermarket parts are almost always inferior to OE. The only chance you have is trying to get the parts from the same manufacturer.

I had an autozone manager tell me that all of their parts meet or exceed OE specifications.

I asked him if their parts are so fantastic, then why don’t they build cars?

crickets
 

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That’s funny. I get parts from Tynan’s all the time. Be careful because aftermarket parts are almost always inferior to OE. The only chance you have is trying to get the parts from the same manufacturer.

I had an autozone manager tell me that all of their parts meet or exceed OE specifications.

I asked him if their parts are so fantastic, then why don’t they build cars?

crickets
see and i worked at autozone and was a manager and was honest about which parts were good and which werent, like on nissans dont use the duralast brand crank, cam or knock sensors or any other magnetic sensor as the magnets in the duralast ones are not as large as the oem brand and occasionally cause the code to keep reading or issue to still occur due to the field sending different readings to the ecm than expected under certain conditions, but like the duralast gold aternators were great same with the gold cv axles. it was hit or miss with the remaned alternators and starters. with the gm and ford vehicles they hated our ignition coils while the rest didnt seem to mind. the radiators were good and so are the duralast themostats which are actually made by walker.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So if there are questions... this was the upstream sensor, driver side. Not sure if it’s specific to my generation (2nd gen) or year (2007), but looks like in my case Denso is the oem. I replaced both upstream as with NTK.
The upstream date not hard to replace, but are not as easy to access as the two downstreams. This one is at the front of the cat converter. I got to in from the engine bay. Tight space, but if you put your socket on the sensor then put the ratchet on it’s pretty easy. I was using a slotted deep socket for these sensors. The other side has to be accessed through the passenger side wheel well. You’ll need to remove the wheel and then the plastics shielding. Can’t miss it after that. The O2 sensor is right there with the Crank Shaft sensor. Replaced that a week prior.
 

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So if there are questions... this was the upstream sensor, driver side. Not sure if it’s specific to my generation (2nd gen) or year (2007), but looks like in my case Denso is the oem. I replaced both upstream as with NTK.
The upstream date not hard to replace, but are not as easy to access as the two downstreams. This one is at the front of the cat converter. I got to in from the engine bay. Tight space, but if you put your socket on the sensor then put the ratchet on it’s pretty easy. I was using a slotted deep socket for these sensors. The other side has to be accessed through the passenger side wheel well. You’ll need to remove the wheel and then the plastics shielding. Can’t miss it after that. The O2 sensor is right there with the Crank Shaft sensor. Replaced that a week prior.
hm, nissan usually uses ntk, they might use both denso and ntk depending on where the vehicle was built and when.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hm, nissan usually uses ntk, they might use both denso and ntk depending on where the vehicle was built and when.
That’s what I figure. I would have assumed it wasn’t the original sensor if it hadn’t had Nissan printed on it. I replaced with NTK.
 

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Will these work?
Those look like a similar style o2 to the actual OE Bosch on that engine, but they’re a third of the price and look like there is no plug in part, so you’d have to reuse the old ones and solder the wires together, almost looks like it has heat shrink with it.
 
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