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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About to go down the rabbit hole of building and dynoing a VG33ER. Since there is not much firsthand info out there on this with pics and video I thought I would share. I will run engine NA on known good carb then swap to SC on Microsquirt. Using the 256H Schneider cams along with mild port work. Probably going to use a 75mm Ford throttle body since PWM IAC valve is integrated into throttle body. Throwing on Ford EDIS ignition too. I love mixing and matching stuff as you can tell! Also have the 2.3 pulley to swap to after running the 2.64. Yeah, we all going to learn something good or bad!


Here is the nasty oil leaking, busted manifold turd that will get polished!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That’s why I am doing this. I have the means to do it and I am tired of not being able to find REAL info on builds that are actually reasonable to do. Will do my best to photo/video progress. Did the SAS in nine months on limited time so hopefully I can do this in three since it is more in my wheelhouse
 

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03 XE AT w/JDM VG + SC, AC UCA & BL
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If you’re not smogged and willing to use stand alone fuel injection, you should strongly consider throwing that blower in the garbage and get a setup that will accommodate an after cooler or at least an m90 setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you’re not smogged and willing to use stand alone fuel injection, you should strongly consider throwing that blower in the garbage and get a setup that will accommodate an after cooler or at least an m90 setup
This is a camping truck lol
If I wanted to go fast it wouldn’t have Nissan powertrain👍
 

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This is a camping truck lol
If I wanted to go fast it wouldn’t have Nissan powertrain
If you’re not looking for more power then why even build it? If you are looking for more power and you’re using stand alone products, then why use the trash blower? Spinning it extra fast with the tiny pulley only causes more problems. I’m so confused but also eager to see what comes out of this.

I run the 8.9:1 block with the factory supercharger but I only do this to stay smog legal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you’re not looking for more power then why even build it? If you are looking for more power and you’re using stand alone products, then why use the trash blower? Spinning it extra fast with the tiny pulley only causes more problems. I’m so confused but also eager to see what comes out of this.

I run the 8.9:1 block with the factory supercharger but I only do this to stay smog legal.
 

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03 XE AT w/JDM VG + SC, AC UCA & BL
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I’m not sure I even know what that means or how you’d measure it. I bought my xterra for $300. I’m not a speed or power guy.

All I’m saying is the M62 from 2002 is trash on a 3.3. A lot of places will even put newer rotors in the supercharger to increase efficiency. Without a charge air cooler, everything you do to raise boost is going to cause more problems. Anything smaller than a 2.4” pulley is going to spin it too fast and cause it to self destruct.

even with a stock pulley at 8.9:1, my knock sensor kicks it into bypass any time I’m going up a hill and it’s over 90 degrees outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will be sure to record the difference in intake charge temps n/a vs. 2.64 vs. 2.3. My intent is to get everything I can out of the supercharger from idle to about 4500rpm. CFM wise, the M62 is good to a max of 300hp. I would be happy with 250hp and 300lbft torque. Pics coming very soon!
 

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That’s why I am doing this. I have the means to do it and I am tired of not being able to find REAL info on builds that are actually reasonable to do. Will do my best to photo/video progress. Did the SAS in nine months on limited time so hopefully I can do this in three since it is more in my wheelhouse
Goodluck. Interested I'm what it makes. Has me pondering building up my SC 3.3 some
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Block is all clean along with the sheet metal. Waiting on cams to come back from Schneider. About to start bottom end machine work at the end of the week so I can get a awesome DNJ engine kit ordered 😂. Still have to finish my amateur cylinder head work also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Seems that everyone deals with knock sensor issues as well as ignition failure from the distributors. I’m not knocking the vehicle just saying that if you intend on modifying anything (camshafts, supercharger, turbo, etc.) you are better off to parallel install a standalone ECM. You can read up on the parallel installation at diy autotune site. Basically you are taking over fuel and ignition or just one if you choose. This is not for everyone. A handy guy can study up on it and do it. I have been heavily involved in automotive repair/machine work for years. Still learning myself 👍
BTW: my swap engine would be the Chevy LV3 4.3 V6. All aluminum and makes more than 300lbft torque from 3000-5500rpms. Nice and short also!
 

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Seems that everyone deals with knock sensor issues as well as ignition failure from the distributors. I’m not knocking the vehicle just saying that if you intend on modifying anything (camshafts, supercharger, turbo, etc.) you are better off to parallel install a standalone ECM. You can read up on the parallel installation at diy autotune site. Basically you are taking over fuel and ignition or just one if you choose. This is not for everyone. A handy guy can study up on it and do it. I have been heavily involved in automotive repair/machine work for years. Still learning myself 👍
BTW: my swap engine would be the Chevy LV3 4.3 V6. All aluminum and makes more than 300lbft torque from 3000-5500rpms. Nice and short also!
Perfect, thanks buddy
 
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