Tyler's Build Thread

Fog Light Install !

on a 1.5 gen (but it would be basically the same)

Materials:
Winjet fog light kit (2004 xterra in my case)
Box Cutters
Wire Cutters
Fuse Holder
4 Nissan Fog light clips
Zip ties



The winjet kit is great in some ways and horrible in others.
For instance the lamps are OEM perfect fit, but the wires are universal not plyg and play.



This should allow you to install these with minimum pain



Before you start examine the kit:
I have them already installed so its too late to take pictures, but from memory
2 lamps with plugs
Harness (positive, ground, relay, fuse, and yellow)
Switch and wires (wires with the green plug on one end and brown, yellow, and ground on the other)
Some crappy assembly stuff
A useless other red wire



It it much easier with the grill removed






Step one: Mounting the lights

Make sure you have the correct lamp (D or P) and it is correctly oriented (it will say top on the top)

Remove the gromets (I used a flat head screw driver between the gromet and bumper)

Fish the cable through the fog light housing in the bumper

place two nissan fog light clips on the prongs on the back of the fog lights (the upper prongs) (this will keep it from rattling)

Snap in place

Repeat on driver side







Step Two: Mounting the Relay and fuse

The fuse/ relay/ lamp connector/ positive. ground (black), and yellow cable will all be on the same wiring

Start by connecting the harness to the lamps (easy snaps)


Then I mounted the relay by using an existing nut by the radiator
(this will save you several headaches)


Then ground the ground wire (anything on the frame will work)
(I drilled a new hole in the frame)


Fish the positive (red cable up to the battery, but don't connect)


I zip tied the cables in the tubing to my auto tranny cooler, but you could zip tie it to anything



Fish the yellow cable to the grommet





Lift the gromet enough to allow the yellow wire though

Then put the gromet back in place


By only bringing the yellow wire into the cabin you don't have to cut a hole in the gromet....plus the housing for the relay and fuse is water resistant (I went through an automatic car wash to make sure)










Step 3: The stupid universal switch

Attach the plug to the switch (it should have a yellow wire, black wire and red wire with a brown connector)

Remove a blank switch (I used the one next to security light)
(use a flat head screw driver to pry it from the front)



Open the fuse panel


Fish the wires (plugged into switch) through the front of the the now empty switch space

Then attach yellow to yellow


attach the ground to one of the bolts near the yellow wire



Take box cutters and cut the tubing so that the wires can go in different directions.

Fish the red wire (from switch with brown connector to the fuse box)


With wire cutters cut the brown piece off leaving exposed wire.

Use the fuse puller to remove a fuse (I used the 15 amp blower fuse)

Place the bare wire on the blade of the fuse and plug it back in.


Turn the key to make sure the switch only powers up when the car is on. (the switch lights up even when foglights aren't engaged)


If all is well

Pop the switch in (It is a very tight fit)
Attach the positive wire to the positive terminal (I used the larger factory bolt)

This is during the day in shade






***optional***
I cut the positive wire and put a fuse holder (30 amp) between the positive wire on the terminal and the positive wire on the relay



I was told to do so by the local CB shop



Done



Turn your x on, push the switch, and enjoy


I'll post night pics soon

Night pic


But the only place I can see someone having trouble is the brown connector of doom that doesn't connect to anything lol and I explained it fairly well

Auto Tranny Cooler install

Ok so after reading through the 1st gen performance mod list, I decided to install an automatic transmission cooler. I got a 6 bend Flex a light from andysautosport.com.

NOTE**** This is to run a cooler with the factory one not stand alone

The kit comes with mounting stuff and great directions for mounting, which is self explanatory. Racerxxl gave me diagrams that helped tremendously so I thought I would share for anyone interested.

RacerXXL...Here is the stock setup in your truck showing the current flow of transmission fluid. Hot fluid leaves the transmission and is circulated through the bottom of the radiator and cooled. It then leaves the radiator and travels back down the return line to the transmission where it starts the process over again.

We want to further cool the fluid so we will install an additional cooler in line after the radiator has somewhat cooled the fluid. You will disconnect the rubber/metal line labeled COLD FLUID RETURNING TO TRANSMISSION (drivers side line). Once disconnected, and if it will reach, you will need to route the rubber portion of the hose under the radiator and attach it to the inlet fitting on the new cooler.

Next take the line that should have come with the cooler and attach it to the outlet fitting on the new cooler and route the hose under the radiator. Once routed under the radiator connect the new line to the OEM metal hose labeled COLD FLUID RETURNING TO TRANSMISSION. Once all the lines are connected and clamped start the engine and follow the directions in the owners manual on how to check transmission fluid level.

Any questions call me. There is really only one way to hurt an automatic trans and that is to run it low on fluid. So a loose line or one that gets cut on sharp metal edges can cause big problems.

Kelly

Click to expand...

Here are pics of my install, I just followed instructions lol so all credit goes to RacerXXL.







An automatic transmission cooler expands the life of your transmission.
It is rumored to give you better MPG, but that is a debate I don't feel like getting into

So today the build is back to the drawing board.

Coming soon hopefully:
Calmini Shackles-against what many people have told me, but I don't have the budget for everything the revolvers add and I want them exactly the size they should be. I also don't think I would put in the effort required to brake them.

Calmini Tie Rod Adjusters- nothing really swayed me to these except the fact that I might as well keep it nice and blue

Bilsteins for the articulator kit (3") (all 4)

32 in BFG Rugged Trails- decided on these because I'm more likely to encounter sand, gravel, and ice/light snow....than mud

......then more towards august a rear ARB Locker.....since I'm 2wd and I'll have 3 more inches of play....for what I'm doing a rear locker should be fine...

Decided against spacers...
debating the current group buys hmm...

If your going 32's I would go with BFG KO's A much better tire all the way arounf than those Rugged Trails.. And will give the X that nice aggressive look with out hurting your MPGs... Rated all season..


It comes standard on the Ford Raptors too

Just remember tires are the top MOD for any type of trail riding or street riding

weerez935 said:

haha yea we talked about it....on BRG's website I just looked at them again and it says T/A rugged trails....Dislexia is kicking in haha I thought it was A/T rugged trails

tire companies need to make it simpler for people like me....they need a button that says "This is the biggest best damn tire you can get without trimming"

Will do on the A/T KO........glad you guys saved me from that..

Do you guys order direct or just go to a tire shop?

Edit: @ TJTJ I wish I could go revolvers like we talked about, but that extra 250 means all new shocks...so those may come later

Click to expand...

Well, not really, I ran them for years with just the 10" travel Bil 5100's....and they worked OK.


This is With the Bil 5100's and Revolvers...more travel than with the Calmini shackles I replaced, but, less than I have now.

The 5100's are designed to take extension hangs...so if they are the limiting factor in droop, it doesn't hurt them.


:wink-big:

Progress:
UPS sucks so I'll have shocks, HD Tie Rod Adjusters, Idler Arm Brace Tommorrow and will install.

After RacerX redrills shackles They will be installed.

Next mod is working on a custom shelf/ box/ fridge/ subs

Still debating on where to go after this:
I probably need to start electrical stuff
New Battery, Starter, Alternator
Flush and Replace the AC Stuff
BFG KOs are a given

I'm at odds with
a new bumper-I'd like the look, but with a 2wd I want to be as light as possible.
Rear Locker- not sure if the gains are worth 1500$

Eventually:
UCA's
Add A Leaf
SLR Torsion Bars
Leather
Lights
Electric Fan
6 Air Horns
CB w/ PA