[cbmorris504]

Hello all,

I am a newbie to the forum. I recently purchased a 2000 Nissan Xterra with about 178,000 miles on it from a guy. Originally he told me that it was in need of an alternator and had a power steering leak. Those issues have been addressed. However, there are other issues I am noticing that I need some help/guidance on which direction i should take. About two weeks after purchasing and replacing the alternator, I noticed that upon startup it blows out this whiteish color smoke for about 5 seconds max. Immeadiately after, there is a smell of fuel from the tailpipe and then sometimes itll go into this burning rubber smell. When i bought it to the shop, they suggested a tune up, in which I changed the spark plugs and wires. However, its still doing the same thing. it is also idling high with surging at idle. In addition there is this whistling sound i hear from the engine. Now im aware that none of these issues may be related. However, I just need to put it out there just in case they are. I just need some guidance on what to do next as i believe this truck does have alot of life left in it. its just that im learning that the previous owner neglected it. I do know that the valve cover gaskets need replacing. but i dont know if that would be the cause of smoke coming from tailpipe. Also it is not losing coolant. And i changed the pcv valve as well. I also cleaned the throttle body and sprayed inside the plenum where it seemed like lots of dirt and oil were coming out of when i was cleaning it. Thanks for any suggestions u may have as i plan on keeping her until the wheels fall off and when they do, ill replace them with more. lol

 

[cbxterra]

I can't help with most of your questions, but the valve cover gaskets wouldn't cause smoke out the tailpipe. It sounds like just a bit of unburnt fuel-I don't know for sure. They'd cause smoke dripping on the headers under the hood. Passenger side is fairly easy to replace I've done it. Driver's is more complicated I think (haven't done it). You may want to get the passenger fairly quickly, some have reported oil dripping on the starter shortening it's life after awhile. Don't panic about it though. Good luck sorting it all out

 

[cbmorris504]

Thanks for replying to my post. Im just hoping its not something more serious like valve seals.

 

[SRStaff]

For the whistle; take the valve cover oil cap off to see if it stops whistling.

 

[kms1990]

change the pcv valve after that long its probably clogged and causing oil pressure to build which could be causing other issues, check the intake for leaks as well (listen with engine on) and check vacuum lines for leaks using a spray bottle with soapy water will do the trick just spray it on the hoses with the engine running and if you see bubbles at any spot it has a vacuum leak there, or carb cleaner that is flammable can be used but instead of bubbles you will get engine revving when you find the leak. at that age and mileage i almost guarantee it has a vacuum leak somewhere and that is most likely causing the whistle and may even be causing the smoke as it has unburned fuel mixture since its dumping fuel to compensate for the leak. does it have a service engine light on? if so have the codes read and let us know what they are, they will help us determine how to help you better. with the high/surging idle that really stands out to me as unmetered air getting in or not enough fuel pressure and more likely is the air side. its worth it to note for you on the v6 in that gen the distributors like to fail at about that mileage they cause misfires and rough/surging idle as they fail and when they go it becomes undriveable and dies in a few seconds so might be worth replacing now. doesnt take much effort just make sure you mark where the rotor is inside the old distributor and set the new distributors rotor to the exact same spot before installing or you will screw the timing to hell.

 

[cbmorris504]

Thanks a bunch for the input. I actually changed the pcv valve. But i will look into checking for vacuum leaks. There is no check engine light but there is the knock sensor code that comes up when hooking the diagnostic up. I think i will replace the distrbutor as well just to get it done. Also i notice that when i dont start it for a few days, i have trouble starting it. It takes about five or six turns of the key and blank clicks before it starts. Could this be the distributor issue you were warning me of

 

[cbxterra]

No the distributator causes a misfire. (It spits a bit). Don't worry about the knock sensor, most of us don't. The only ones that really worry have the supercharger, they lose power. There's a thread somewhere debating the pros and cons of replacing it.not sure where. It might just take a bit to pick up fuel when sitting awhile. Maybe change the fuel filter would help. Can't hurt and it's cheap and easy to do.

 

[kms1990]

Thanks a bunch for the input. I actually changed the pcv valve. But i will look into checking for vacuum leaks. There is no check engine light but there is the knock sensor code that comes up when hooking the diagnostic up. I think i will replace the distrbutor as well just to get it done. Also i notice that when i dont start it for a few days, i have trouble starting it. It takes about five or six turns of the key and blank clicks before it starts. Could this be the distributor issue you were warning me of

that really does sound like a failing distributor to me. as mentioned above ignore the knock sensor code it isnt anything

 

[cbmorris504]

thanks for your input. I have already ordered the part. I will keep you informed of my progress

 

[cbmorris504]

thanks for your reply. i actually have a fuel filter sitting here. Just havent had the time to replace it yet. But that is something I will do and I will change the distributor as well.

 

[Badge of honor]

Vacuum leak for the idle issue and the whistle. Leaky injectors for the smoke and fuel smell at start. Injector may also contribute to idle issues. If I understand your post right, if you turn the car off and start it right back up, no smoke. If it sits for a length of time, it smokes. Injector is leaking fuel into the cylinder and that has to be burned disposed of at first fire.

To check injector get a fuel pressure tester. Hook it up to the rail. There should be a valve stem looking piece on the rail. Start the car. Check pressure. Write it down. Then turn truck off. Write pressure. Prime pump by just turning the key to run. A few times. Write pressure. Then let the truck sit for several hours. Check pressure. Compare. All numbers should be close. A few pounds are fine. My guess is you will see the last reading down 10-20 lbs.

For vaccine leaks. Don't use soap and water. That will only work for pressure leaks not vacuum. Use carb cleaner or starting fluid. Listen for idle increase.

Good luck and let us know.

 

[kms1990]

Vacuum leak for the idle issue and the whistle. Leaky injectors for the smoke and fuel smell at start. Injector may also contribute to idle issues. If I understand your post right, if you turn the car off and start it right back up, no smoke. If it sits for a length of time, it smokes. Injector is leaking fuel into the cylinder and that has to be burned disposed of at first fire.

To check injector get a fuel pressure tester. Hook it up to the rail. There should be a valve stem looking piece on the rail. Start the car. Check pressure. Write it down. Then turn truck off. Write pressure. Prime pump by just turning the key to run. A few times. Write pressure. Then let the truck sit for several hours. Check pressure. Compare. All numbers should be close. A few pounds are fine. My guess is you will see the last reading down 10-20 lbs.

For vaccine leaks. Don't use soap and water. That will only work for pressure leaks not vacuum. Use carb cleaner or starting fluid. Listen for idle increase.

Good luck and let us know.

just have to say soapy water works for both pressure and vacuum leaks, i have found many a vacuum leak using nothing but a hose and dish soap. its not near as easy to see or tell when you found the leak as the carb cleaner method but can be used.

 

[cbmorris504]

thanks for the input. a bad injector would make sense. Also I discovered today that the fuel sending unit had not been replaced under recall so i have to bring it in to be replaced. Could that cause the issues im having?

 

[Badge of honor]

Not likely. It just indicated fuel level

 

[cbmorris504]

Hello, to those who replied i just wanted to give a brief update that may shed some light on the situation a bit more. I havent had to time take my truck in. but will be taking it into the shop next week for some repairs and the distributor is on the list just to get it out of the way. but anyway, weve had a pretty cold winter here for new orleans. this morning i went to start the truck, and it acted like it didnt want to start. I think it took me all of five minutes to get it to turn over. When i turn the key, you get the one click. Sometimes when you hold the key itll delay and then start. but other that just click. Turn the key again, click. Again the alternator and battery are both brand new. I read somewhere on here that one of the signs to a bad distributor is the fact that they hate cold weather starts. two days ago, it was in the 60s and it turned over fine. Didnt even feel like one of those slow starts it does sometimes. Does this narrow my issue down some more?

 

[kms1990]

Hello, to those who replied i just wanted to give a brief update that may shed some light on the situation a bit more. I havent had to time take my truck in. but will be taking it into the shop next week for some repairs and the distributor is on the list just to get it out of the way. but anyway, weve had a pretty cold winter here for new orleans. this morning i went to start the truck, and it acted like it didnt want to start. I think it took me all of five minutes to get it to turn over. When i turn the key, you get the one click. Sometimes when you hold the key itll delay and then start. but other that just click. Turn the key again, click. Again the alternator and battery are both brand new. I read somewhere on here that one of the signs to a bad distributor is the fact that they hate cold weather starts. two days ago, it was in the 60s and it turned over fine. Didnt even feel like one of those slow starts it does sometimes. Does this narrow my issue down some more?

yes, a sign of a weak distributor is harder to start in cold as you are cranking over a cold engine that requires more power from the electrical system and if the distributor, being electrical, has an issue such as bad contacts between the cap and rotor or a failing cam sensor (built into that gen xterra's distributor) it will have a harder time cranking as it will require even further amperage from the systems and cause issues you are seeing. usually indicative of a failing electrical component that has higher than its limit resistance and thats where the extra power draw and hard start comes in.