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Just wanted to toss this in here - I used to have Toyo wheels on my old Pathfinder - before using the rings to center the wheel on the hub, it felt like I was driving on square wheels. I bought some 106mm to 100 mm rings and they worked great for me. The wheels are centered and no shaking was happening at any speed. I too found a great deal on Craigslist for wheels and tires then had to shell out a small fortune on Toyota style lug nuts. It sucked but that's the way it goes!
 

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I know this is an old thread. Just adding this information because if anyone is researching and finds this thread, I want people to know how to do it right. This kind of operation can be dangerous if you don't do it correctly, and I just want people to be safe while having their fun. 4 options - 1 for Toyota steel wheels, 3 options for running aluminum Toyota wheels.

Basic problem - same bolt pattern, but Toyota uses lug shank lug nuts for their aluminum wheels and the lug stud thread pitch (1.50mm) is different than the Nissan stud thread pitch (1.25mm)

Option 1: Toyota Steel Wheels

The wheel studs are the same spacing (6 X 5.5), but the hub bore is larger on Toyotas (106mm vs 100mm on the Nissan Frontier/Xterra). Make sure you get the wheel centered correctly. Steel wheels will bolt straight on using your factory Nissan hubs using the factory Nissan lug nuts. Hub rings won't work for steel wheels because there is no counter bore on the back of the wheels for the rings to fit in, so you have to make sure you get them centered well using the lug nuts (not the best option, but doable).


Aluminum Wheel Option 1: Wheel Stud Swap - the method I used.

You will need to get new lug studs and swap them out to use Toyota lug nuts on your Nissan hub. Toyota uses lug shanks (mag shanks) on their aluminum wheels. If you use the regular acorn seat lug nuts (Nissan style) lugs to hold the Toyota wheels on, the wheels can get loose and fall off. I've actually seen someone try this and loose a wheel while driving. Here's a diagram...



Go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and get someone who knows something to look up some lug nuts for you in their catalog (they're like $3/each). You can swap ALL YOUR WHEEL STUDS out with some that have these specs:

(A) Knurl Diameter 0.506-.509 inches (or equivalent mm).
(B) Thread Size M12 x 1.5
(C) Under-head Length: 1.5in (roughly)

You'll have to figure out exactly what length you need, although I believe 2" ones work... if you get them too long, they won't fit behind the rear hub to press them in. I used this set ---> ARP Wheel Studs. I had to cut them down and add a taper. I then realized the ones from O'Reilly are cheaper and easier to get the right size.

Hammer all the old studs out, then use a nut and washers to pull the new studs into the hub - then you can use the Toyota lug nuts to hold the Aluminum wheels on. You'll have to removed the front hubs and disassemble them to do this.

Do yourself a favor and get the correct hub rings to fit your wheels (here --->) Hub Rings 106 to 100 bore

Here's a few pictures of mine with the center caps cut. These fit over the center caps no issues. I cut them for easier access.





Aluminum Wheel Option 2: Bolt-on Wheel Spacers

Alternatively, you can also use a bolt-on hub spacer for a Toyota. The SpiderTrax spacers won't fit over the front locking hubs - the wheel spacer material is too thick. These will fit because the wheel bore flange is slightly thinner ----> THESE WHEEL SPACERS WILL FIT OVER YOU HUB. I take that back - they fit over the Warn hubs, but I don't know if they fit over the factory auto-locking hub. Use your factory Nissan lugs to hold the spacer on, then get Toyota specific lug nuts to hold the Toyota wheel to the spacer - you're going to end up with a pretty wide stance, but this method works well. I would still recommend using a hub ring to center the spacer, but if you're careful, you should still be able to get it to work without them.



You will just need a set of Toyota lug nuts to install the wheels to the hubs. Use your factory lugs to install the spacer to the vehicle (Again, I highly recommend using the correct hub rings).


Aluminum Wheel Option 3: Custom Lug Nuts - great option theoretically, but I haven't tried it.

I can't confirm if this works or not, but I've heard of people running a M12 x 12.5 lug nut (thread pitch matches Nissan lug studs) with a 0.73" mag shank diameter (matches Toyota wheels) - I found a few places that sell them, but again, I haven't verified that this will actually work. In theory, it works great! As long as the sellers are specifying their lug nut sizes correctly. Here's a link:

Custom Ebay Toyota-to-Nissan Lug Nuts


Good luck! If you've already done it, which option did you do and how did it work out for you?

-Paul
 

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I know this is an old thread. Just adding this information because if anyone is reasearching and finds this thread, I want people to know how to do it right. This kind of operation can be dangerous if you don't do it correctly, and I just want people to be safe while having their fun.

Option 1: Steel Wheels

I realize this is an older thread... I've studied this extensively and found 3 options that work. The wheel studs are the same spacing (6 X 5.5), but the hub bore is larger on Tacoma (106mm vs 100mm on the Xterra). Make sure you get the wheel centered correctly. Steel wheels will bolt straight on using your factory nissan hubs. Hub rings won't work for steel wheels because there is no counter bore for the rings to fit in, so you have to make sure you get them centered well using the lug nuts (not the best option, but doable).

If the Tacoma wheels are aluminum, it is POSSIBLE.

Option 2: Wheel Stud Swap

You will need to get new lug studs and swap them out. Toyota uses lug shanks (mag shanks) on their aluminum wheels. If you use the regular acorn seat lug nuts (Nissan style), the wheels can get loose and fall off. I've actually seen someone try this and loose a wheel while driving. Here's a diagram...



If you are determined to use aluminum wheels, you can do what I did... Go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and get someone who knows something to look up some lug nuts for you in their catalog (they're like $3/each). You can swap ALL YOUR WHEEL STUDS out with some that have these specs:

(A) Knurl Diameter 0.506-.509 inches (or equivalent mm).
(B) Thread Size M12 x 1.5
(C) Under-head Length: 1.5in (roughly)


You'll have to figure out exactly what length you need, although I believe 2" ones work... if you get them too long, they won't fit behind the rear hub to press them in. I used this set ---> ARP Wheel Studs. I had to cut them down and add a taper. I then realized the ones from O'Reilly are cheaper and easier to get the right size.

If you press them all out, swap them out, then you can use the Toyota lug nuts to hold the Aluminum wheels on.

Do yourself a favor and get the correct hub rings to fit your wheels (here --->) Hub Rings 106 to 100 bore

Here's a few pictures of mine with the center caps cut. These fit over the center caps no issues. I cut them for easier access.









Option 3: Bolt-on Wheel Spacers

Alternatively, you can also use a bolt-on hub spacer for a Toyota. The SpiderTrax spacers won't fit over the front hubs material too thick), but these will ---> THESE WHEEL SPACERS WILL FIT OVER YOU HUB. (I ran them for a while before doing a full stud swap... didn't like the stance, as most Aluminum Toyota wheels have less offset than Nissan wheels do, adding a spacer made it too wide for my taste), plus running 33's, I got a TON of rubbing.









You will just need a set of Toyota lug nuts to install the wheels to the hubs. Use your factory lugs to install the spacer to the vehicle (Again, I highly recommend using the correct hub rings).

Good luck! If you've already done it, which option did you do and how did it work out for you?

-Paul
Paul,
I got a sweet deal on 17's.After pulling the toyo emblem off the hubcap, used 106-100mm bore spacer, changed to mag 1.25 lugnut and bingo. Sporting 265/265/17 Michlens. Stock no melt. Total cost.. $150 Rims and Tires, $30 lugs, $10 centric ring. I have a brand new set of 17's, 265/70. That I am going to put on that I got for $100.
 

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Paul,
I got a sweet deal on 17's.After pulling the toyo emblem off the hubcap, used 106-100mm bore spacer, changed to mag 1.25 lugnut and bingo. Sporting 265/265/17 Michlens. Stock no melt. Total cost.. $150 Rims and Tires, $30 lugs, $10 centric ring. I have a brand new set of 17's, 265/70. That I am going to put on that I got for $100.
KBee, so you didn’t get new lugs just nuts,correct? How long of a shank on the mags?
 

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Gosh.. I been crazy busy sorry took so long to get back to you. The shanks were standard size check the page link. The rims are perfect. I put 265/70/17s on and they have almost 2" to spare. I got Nissan logos to put on the hubs. I'll post pictures in a bit.. Love the wheels.
 
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