Joined
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12,216 Posts
OK, Apparently I'm supposed to have a build thread....so, this is going to be it.
I'll start it with a few things, and add to it as I get around to it.
2001 SE, 5 Speed, 4WD
Mods:
Rear Facing Spotting Camera, Color, Wireless, Screen on Dash
Cobra 75 WX ST CB with Wilson Flex 4' Antenna
On Board Air:
ExtremeAir 4 CFM 100% Duty Cycle, 150 PSI Compressor, Under Hood
4 Gallon Air tank, Under Truck where exhaust used to go/Below Driver's Seat
Front Bumper QD
Front Suspension:
SLR UCA's
300M 28.5 mm Torsion Bars
Bilstien HD 20% Stiffer Shocks
SS Brake Lines
Rear Suspension:
Revolver Shackles
Deaver 3-Pack AAL
Calmini 2-Pack AAL
Bilstein 7100 Long Travel Short Body Reservoir Shocks
UBSkidderz Lower Shock Mounts/Leaf Skid Plates
Extended SS Brake Lines
Steering:
Calmini Steering Kit
Drivetrain:
SLR Diff Drop
Modified Cross Member to allow Additional Rear Axle Droop
Electric Fan Replaced Mechanical Fan, with Dash Override Switch for Water Crossings
Snorkel, Safari
CAI, Volant
Replaced exhaust with 2003 X OEM to Cross over.
Installed custom SS cross over-back with Magnaflow 40 SUV muffler to allow room for OBA tank installation
Replaced original 2001 engine with engine from 2003 X that had rolled
Armor:
Shrock Front Bumper
Shrock Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier
Shrock Sliders
Skid-Row Gas Skid
Shrock Engine Skid
Shrock T-Case Skid
OBA Tank Skid
Recovery:
Warn 9.5 xp (9,500 lb) Winch, 125' of MasterPull Synthetic line, Hawse Fairlead
Block and Tackle/Spare Shackles for off angle recoveries
Hi-Lift 48" Jack, Shovel, Pick, Axe
3" x 30' Snatch Strap
3" x 10' Tree Strap
2 Front Bumper Recovery/Line Doubler Points
3 Rear Bumper Recovery/Line Tripler Points
Structural Mods:
2" Body Lift
Welded Front Frame Horn Braces
Rear Frame Stiffeners
Tires:
33 x 13.5/16 Interco Super Swamper LTB's
305/70/16 BFG AT ko's
305/70/16 BFG KM2's
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Starting Point:
![]()
My Jeep was somewhat stressful upon my wife's tolerance for me being under it instead of in it.
As the wife traditionally gets the hopefully more reliable new one's, and I take the one's that might break down, etc...She drove the X as her DD before I got it.
I was using the jeep for work...I do environmental stuff, so I was hauling equipment into the boonies, and needed 4wd and decent ground clearance, etc....to make it.....but, the Jeep was too small, and, I needed something that could carry more cargo....
After a while, she wanted a Mini Cooper...so, that meant the X would rotate to me....problem solved.
![]()
I got it, drove it stock for a while, did a few off road things for work, etc....and looked at what I needed to change to make it work as needed.
It needed armor, a winch, and more ground clearance.
Thankfully, my Birthday and Christmas are so close, and my wife told me she's ordering a Shrock bumper for me, and to get the one I wanted.
I knew I was doing the 2" BL later, to fit 33's...but, back then, there was no BL option...and I assumed I'd just leave the gap...so Shrock swapped on a taller hoop for me to get above the hood line after the BL.
So - A short time later (He wasn't that busy yet...), I get the Bumper, Sliders and Winch. (YAY!)
I do the 2" BL.
Decide I don't like the gap after all, and raise the front bumper anyway. ( Leave the rear low though, as it didn't bother me enough yet...)
I install an SLR front 3" SL, Calmini steering kit, and Calmini 3" Rear SL, using Bilstein HD's up front/5100's in back.
I installed the OBA, putting the tank where the spare used to go, under the cargo area. I welded a skid for it to the OEM tow hitch, worked great.
I went through a few different ways to carry the 33" spare, as it didn't fit under the truck anymore....the tire on the roof was too tippy and killed the MPG, the cargo hold was ok, but I needed the cargo room for other stuff, and so forth...realized I needed the rear carrier. (sigh)
Get the new tie carrier/bumper, and, of course, the OBA tank/skid is now in a bad spot...I need to move the tank....
I settle on the gully under the driver's seat, where the giant honking oem muffler resided...
![]()
...and now need to move the exhaust out of the way....so I remove the factory exhaust from the cross over out, and use a muffler at the end, rather than under the driver's seat...making room for the 4 gal tank instead.
![]()
OBA Tank is black, on the left. The wiring for the pressure switch, which turns the compressor on if the pressure drops, LOOKS close to the new exhaust pipe, but there's enough clearance there. You can also see the tank skid plate.
![]()
This corner at the passenger side fender/firewall area, looked like a good place for a compressor. It wasn't too muddy, indicating some degree of protection, it was reasonably high underhood, and was near the battery. The cruise control, power steering reservoir, and a few other items were there, but, not too hard to relocate.
![]()
I just had to make room for this bad boy to fit in there.
![]()
And here it is, right over the P-side fender, between the firewall and the battery. As you can see, I shifted the cruise control over to the outboard side (The lines are long enough), and moved the power steering reservoir closer to the radiator. The fuse box was able to remain. I mounted it with the air intake (Foam filter that's still in the bag in the pics...) facing the firewall, to further protect it from splashing/engine heat.
![]()
I used a rolled up section of thick rubber sheet to make a vibe free mount for the power steering reservoir, and just screwed it to the radiator support. I then simply used the stock reservoir bracket on that mount.
![]()
I mounted a 100 amp resettable breaker and a pressure solenoid to turn the compressor on/off, on the fender wall.
![]()
Air brake line was used to carry the compressed air from the compressor to the tank, and from the tank back to the QD on the bumper.
![]()
The Quick Disconnect on the front bumper
![]()
Air line and QD
![]()
With air line that plugs into the QD
![]()
With cap to keep out rain, etc.
![]()
A simple 10 amp fuse was put in line for the relay. (I since swapped this to a marine fuse holder)
![]()
A back flow preventer was added to the pump's output side to prevent the tank's 150 psi from forcing air back into the pump, possibly damaging the pump, and in any case leaking out of the tank, etc.
![]()
A dash manual override switch was added to allow the compressor to be turned off....as otherwise it might kick on in the middle of the night if the tank pressure dropped, waking up the people in the tent next to me, etc. (Sorry Ken...)
As for wiring, etc...The electric is simply run to the compressor through a relay and solenoid. With the dash switch on, the pressure switch in the tank sends the solenoid a signal if the psi drops below 120 psi, and the solenoid then sends the juice to the compressor, which makes it compress, etc. (I started with a pressure switch that kicked on at 110, and turned it off at 145 psi, but, moved the range up later...)
When the pressure switch in the tank see's its up to pressure again (150 psi), it tells the solenoid to turn the compressor off again.
There's a blow-off valve on the tank, so if it goes over 175 psi, the excess will hiss out (Say from sitting in a hot summer day, after being compressed during the cool morning, etc...)
For the air lines...from the compressor's backflow preventer, it goes behind the engine, and then under the truck, back along the frame rails on the driver's side to just behind the D-side rear tire.
For the tank to the bumper, it just goes back the same way....very simple, out of the way.
![]()
Air Chuck, Pressure Switch, Dash Toggle, Back Flow Preventer and Blow-off Valve
![]()
Solenoid
![]()
Resettable Breaker
![]()
4 Gal tank. Five (5) Bungs were used for pressure switch, blow-off valve, air in, air out, and a drain at the bottom.
I'll start it with a few things, and add to it as I get around to it.
2001 SE, 5 Speed, 4WD
Mods:
Rear Facing Spotting Camera, Color, Wireless, Screen on Dash
Cobra 75 WX ST CB with Wilson Flex 4' Antenna
On Board Air:
ExtremeAir 4 CFM 100% Duty Cycle, 150 PSI Compressor, Under Hood
4 Gallon Air tank, Under Truck where exhaust used to go/Below Driver's Seat
Front Bumper QD
Front Suspension:
SLR UCA's
300M 28.5 mm Torsion Bars
Bilstien HD 20% Stiffer Shocks
SS Brake Lines
Rear Suspension:
Revolver Shackles
Deaver 3-Pack AAL
Calmini 2-Pack AAL
Bilstein 7100 Long Travel Short Body Reservoir Shocks
UBSkidderz Lower Shock Mounts/Leaf Skid Plates
Extended SS Brake Lines
Steering:
Calmini Steering Kit
Drivetrain:
SLR Diff Drop
Modified Cross Member to allow Additional Rear Axle Droop
Electric Fan Replaced Mechanical Fan, with Dash Override Switch for Water Crossings
Snorkel, Safari
CAI, Volant
Replaced exhaust with 2003 X OEM to Cross over.
Installed custom SS cross over-back with Magnaflow 40 SUV muffler to allow room for OBA tank installation
Replaced original 2001 engine with engine from 2003 X that had rolled
Armor:
Shrock Front Bumper
Shrock Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier
Shrock Sliders
Skid-Row Gas Skid
Shrock Engine Skid
Shrock T-Case Skid
OBA Tank Skid
Recovery:
Warn 9.5 xp (9,500 lb) Winch, 125' of MasterPull Synthetic line, Hawse Fairlead
Block and Tackle/Spare Shackles for off angle recoveries
Hi-Lift 48" Jack, Shovel, Pick, Axe
3" x 30' Snatch Strap
3" x 10' Tree Strap
2 Front Bumper Recovery/Line Doubler Points
3 Rear Bumper Recovery/Line Tripler Points
Structural Mods:
2" Body Lift
Welded Front Frame Horn Braces
Rear Frame Stiffeners
Tires:
33 x 13.5/16 Interco Super Swamper LTB's
305/70/16 BFG AT ko's
305/70/16 BFG KM2's
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Starting Point:
My Jeep was somewhat stressful upon my wife's tolerance for me being under it instead of in it.
As the wife traditionally gets the hopefully more reliable new one's, and I take the one's that might break down, etc...She drove the X as her DD before I got it.
I was using the jeep for work...I do environmental stuff, so I was hauling equipment into the boonies, and needed 4wd and decent ground clearance, etc....to make it.....but, the Jeep was too small, and, I needed something that could carry more cargo....
After a while, she wanted a Mini Cooper...so, that meant the X would rotate to me....problem solved.
I got it, drove it stock for a while, did a few off road things for work, etc....and looked at what I needed to change to make it work as needed.
It needed armor, a winch, and more ground clearance.
Thankfully, my Birthday and Christmas are so close, and my wife told me she's ordering a Shrock bumper for me, and to get the one I wanted.
I knew I was doing the 2" BL later, to fit 33's...but, back then, there was no BL option...and I assumed I'd just leave the gap...so Shrock swapped on a taller hoop for me to get above the hood line after the BL.
So - A short time later (He wasn't that busy yet...), I get the Bumper, Sliders and Winch. (YAY!)
I do the 2" BL.
Decide I don't like the gap after all, and raise the front bumper anyway. ( Leave the rear low though, as it didn't bother me enough yet...)
I install an SLR front 3" SL, Calmini steering kit, and Calmini 3" Rear SL, using Bilstein HD's up front/5100's in back.
I installed the OBA, putting the tank where the spare used to go, under the cargo area. I welded a skid for it to the OEM tow hitch, worked great.
I went through a few different ways to carry the 33" spare, as it didn't fit under the truck anymore....the tire on the roof was too tippy and killed the MPG, the cargo hold was ok, but I needed the cargo room for other stuff, and so forth...realized I needed the rear carrier. (sigh)
Get the new tie carrier/bumper, and, of course, the OBA tank/skid is now in a bad spot...I need to move the tank....
I settle on the gully under the driver's seat, where the giant honking oem muffler resided...
...and now need to move the exhaust out of the way....so I remove the factory exhaust from the cross over out, and use a muffler at the end, rather than under the driver's seat...making room for the 4 gal tank instead.
OBA Tank is black, on the left. The wiring for the pressure switch, which turns the compressor on if the pressure drops, LOOKS close to the new exhaust pipe, but there's enough clearance there. You can also see the tank skid plate.
This corner at the passenger side fender/firewall area, looked like a good place for a compressor. It wasn't too muddy, indicating some degree of protection, it was reasonably high underhood, and was near the battery. The cruise control, power steering reservoir, and a few other items were there, but, not too hard to relocate.
I just had to make room for this bad boy to fit in there.
And here it is, right over the P-side fender, between the firewall and the battery. As you can see, I shifted the cruise control over to the outboard side (The lines are long enough), and moved the power steering reservoir closer to the radiator. The fuse box was able to remain. I mounted it with the air intake (Foam filter that's still in the bag in the pics...) facing the firewall, to further protect it from splashing/engine heat.
I used a rolled up section of thick rubber sheet to make a vibe free mount for the power steering reservoir, and just screwed it to the radiator support. I then simply used the stock reservoir bracket on that mount.
I mounted a 100 amp resettable breaker and a pressure solenoid to turn the compressor on/off, on the fender wall.
Air brake line was used to carry the compressed air from the compressor to the tank, and from the tank back to the QD on the bumper.
The Quick Disconnect on the front bumper
Air line and QD
With air line that plugs into the QD
With cap to keep out rain, etc.
A simple 10 amp fuse was put in line for the relay. (I since swapped this to a marine fuse holder)
A back flow preventer was added to the pump's output side to prevent the tank's 150 psi from forcing air back into the pump, possibly damaging the pump, and in any case leaking out of the tank, etc.
A dash manual override switch was added to allow the compressor to be turned off....as otherwise it might kick on in the middle of the night if the tank pressure dropped, waking up the people in the tent next to me, etc. (Sorry Ken...)
As for wiring, etc...The electric is simply run to the compressor through a relay and solenoid. With the dash switch on, the pressure switch in the tank sends the solenoid a signal if the psi drops below 120 psi, and the solenoid then sends the juice to the compressor, which makes it compress, etc. (I started with a pressure switch that kicked on at 110, and turned it off at 145 psi, but, moved the range up later...)
When the pressure switch in the tank see's its up to pressure again (150 psi), it tells the solenoid to turn the compressor off again.
There's a blow-off valve on the tank, so if it goes over 175 psi, the excess will hiss out (Say from sitting in a hot summer day, after being compressed during the cool morning, etc...)
For the air lines...from the compressor's backflow preventer, it goes behind the engine, and then under the truck, back along the frame rails on the driver's side to just behind the D-side rear tire.
For the tank to the bumper, it just goes back the same way....very simple, out of the way.
Air Chuck, Pressure Switch, Dash Toggle, Back Flow Preventer and Blow-off Valve
Solenoid
Resettable Breaker
4 Gal tank. Five (5) Bungs were used for pressure switch, blow-off valve, air in, air out, and a drain at the bottom.
