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Good luck on the repair... Hope you get it fixed soon...
 

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You might be able to do it but I think it will be more trouble and cost than you want to deal with. You'll probably have clearance issues with the hood. Plus you'll need the SC ECU and some other stuff I think.

I'm surprised you didn't know about timing belts and change intervals when Hondas Toyotas and Nissans usually have them. Especially Honda's and alot of Toyota's
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well, here it is! There was no engine damage!! they put the belt on, did a compression test ,started it up, did diagnostics and found no damage! They did the water pump and all new belts, 24 point check, oil change, checked the tensioner(said it was great condition) and all for $550! I about cried.
 

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Great news!!! Beats putting a new engine it.
To Silverbullet: Thanks for the reply, yeah, I forgot 2000/01 have smaller hoods, so SC probably woudl need some hood modification.
 

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Congrats on the good news!!!
 

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I would have replaced the tensioner while I was in there. Cheap insurance. You break that it will be the same as breaking a belt.
 

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So many have gotten lucky when their timing belts broke on the 3.3 it makes me wonder if the interference warning on them is stated because the valves "might" come in contact with a piston not stating as it always "will".
My Isuzu Rodeo 6cyl stated Interference but I know a Isuzu shop mech says he's never seen damage from any valves on the Isuzu after breaking belts and its only "recomended" by Isuzu to replace it? Could be the same here??

Most valves bend when engines turned over again trying to restart them more times than just stauling fyi. Standard shifts in gear until completely stopping too get them easier.
Its my opinion too that they be replaced at 105 too, I wont chance it.

I removed a factory Gates timing belt from my neighbors 300m with over 170k and the belt looked new with teeth/letters/lines like new too. She bought car new had all records, never replaced it, never new too. Stretched to its max and hyd tensioner was siezed to its limit. No doubt if it wasnt a Gates that engine would of been toast. China rubber is trash as we know. Its the only brand I buy now after that, its condition was amazing to me....People just dont know to replace these belts but hey we get their car parts so thanks people...
Long post sorry:)

READ MAINTENIENCE SCHEDULES IN THOSE MANUALS AFTER ANY PURCHASE!!!
 

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Thanks for the post. I'll get Gates belts.

Never really understand why a company would design an engine to be interference (ok maybe you can make it 1/2 inch less high). The engine has a belt and belts break. So design the engine so if the belt breaks, you just fix the belt. And Nissan says the belt can go 105K miles. Are they sure? How do they know the belt will not break at 100k miles? If they say to change the belt at 105K, for somthing as critical as that (at least Nissan says the engine is interference), then the belt should be designed to last to 210K miles (safety factor of 2X).
 

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So many have gotten lucky when their timing belts broke on the 3.3 it makes me wonder if the interference warning on them is stated because the valves "might" come in contact with a piston not stating as it always "will".
My Isuzu Rodeo 6cyl stated Interference but I know a Isuzu shop mech says he's never seen damage from any valves on the Isuzu after breaking belts and its only "recomended" by Isuzu to replace it? Could be the same here??

Most valves bend when engines turned over again trying to restart them more times than just stauling fyi. Standard shifts in gear until completely stopping too get them easier.
Its my opinion too that they be replaced at 105 too, I wont chance it.

I removed a factory Gates timing belt from my neighbors 300m with over 170k and the belt looked new with teeth/letters/lines like new too. She bought car new had all records, never replaced it, never new too. Stretched to its max and hyd tensioner was siezed to its limit. No doubt if it wasnt a Gates that engine would of been toast. China rubber is trash as we know. Its the only brand I buy now after that, its condition was amazing to me....People just dont know to replace these belts but hey we get their car parts so thanks people...
Long post sorry:)

READ MAINTENIENCE SCHEDULES IN THOSE MANUALS AFTER ANY PURCHASE!!!
5 Years after the post before...I guess you DO read up before posting.

:D

I had a belt snap early on me, it went at ~ 95 k or so....and there was significant interference, as I was going ~ 70 mph on my way to a response on route 295 when it blew a hole in the block and sprayed oil and aluminum shrapnel all over the road.

:D

Generally, on an interference engine, its a question of degree....much like with hydrolocking, etc.

IE: If there's not much force on it at the time, it can let go gently enough to stall/die, but not fatally wound the engine....but, the more under load you are at the time, the more likely momentum, etc, will take its toll.
 

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Belts are designed to go as long as a single row chain will if driven correctly. Over 170k on the 300m was still going, my 91 Toyota chain 2.4 went 177k also interference but toys chains eat into water pump housing when stretched like mine done. 1984 back toys had dual row chains would go 300k before it done it. Ive seen single chains break at 70k my own self from hot rodding alot in my old 289 Ford Mustang & my 351 cleveland Torino too. Ya' Im a lead foot..lol Chevy 350 trucks let loose at 115-125 on average due to streching,breaking or falling off the nylon gears.

Really' It all depends how the engines been treated. If driven hard or used for pulling or hauling heavy loads the chain/belt stretches and they break or fall off around 1/2 their normal life span. Thats why the history of the vehicle is important and one must ask how its been used when buying. Assume the worst if histories unknown and change it out to be safe. Always look at/for a trailor hiches when buying trucks to see if its been towed with because its hard on everything.

5 Years after the post before...I guess you DO read up before posting.

New members and new car owners join/read different sites everyday so even though everything here's old news to old members its all new info to new Xterra owners you know? :) Wasnt here 5 yrs ago to read up?...lol

Interference engines started at the tracks many yrs ago to gain hp.
Factory interference engines started to show up in the 80s also as a way to increase hp but used more now to save fuel. I could do without them too.

Heres a very usefull link:
Gates timing belt replacement Interval Guide shows replacement schedules for all cars and shows what engines are interference too.....Great to keep around.

http://www.gates.com/~/media/Files/Gates/Automotive/Catalogs/Automotive/TimingBeltReplacementGuide.pdf
 

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Belts are designed to go as long as a single row chain will if driven correctly. Over 170k on the 300m was still going, my 91 Toyota chain 2.4 went 177k also interference but toys chains eat into water pump housing when stretched like mine done. 1984 back toys had dual row chains would go 300k before it done it. Ive seen single chains break at 70k my own self from hot rodding alot in my old 289 Ford Mustang & my 351 cleveland Torino too. Ya' Im a lead foot..lol Chevy 350 trucks let loose at 115-125 on average due to streching,breaking or falling off the nylon gears.

Really' It all depends how the engines been treated. If driven hard or used for pulling or hauling heavy loads the chain/belt stretches and they break or fall off around 1/2 their normal life span. Thats why the history of the vehicle is important and one must ask how its been used when buying. Assume the worst if histories unknown and change it out to be safe. Always look at/for a trailor hiches when buying trucks to see if its been towed with because its hard on everything.

5 Years after the post before...I guess you DO read up before posting.

New members and new car owners join/read different sites everyday so even though everything here's old news to old members its all new info to new Xterra owners you know? :) Wasnt here 5 yrs ago to read up?...lol

Interference engines started at the tracks many yrs ago to gain hp.
Factory interference engines started to show up in the 80s also as a way to increase hp but used more now to save fuel. I could do without them too.

Heres a very usefull link:
Gates timing belt replacement Interval Guide shows replacement schedules for all cars and shows what engines are interference too.....Great to keep around.

http://www.gates.com/~/media/Files/Gates/Automotive/Catalogs/Automotive/TimingBeltReplacementGuide.pdf


The timing belt is a maintenance item listed as needing to be changed at 105k miles....it might be a bit optimistic to assume that if you didn't tow, etc, you can go any particular mileage on them more than that. The NISSAN belt, and the GATES belts, might be a smidge different in longevity as well, etc.

I agree that the SPECIFIC belt life is going to be longer if its had an easier life etc, but, I don't want to mislead the newbs with statements that imply longer intervals are OK.

TOO many have simply snapped at or around that magic 105k mark to ignore.

So, sure, from a a maintenance perspective, I HATE timing belt/interference engines...a PITA.



(BTW - the reference to you reading old posts was a compliment, as compared to newbs who ask questions WITHOUT reading up first. I think you might have thought I meant it differently?)


The solution of course is to buy one of them newfangled 2005+ X's.

:D
 

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The timing belt is a maintenance item listed as needing to be changed at 105k miles....it might be a bit optimistic to assume that if you didn't tow, etc, you can go any particular mileage on them more than that. The NISSAN belt, and the GATES belts, might be a smidge different in longevity as well, etc.

I agree that the SPECIFIC belt life is going to be longer if its had an easier life etc, but, I don't want to mislead the newbs with statements that imply longer intervals are OK.

TOO many have simply snapped at or around that magic 105k mark to ignore.

So, sure, from a a maintenance perspective, I HATE timing belt/interference engines...a PITA.




(BTW - the reference to you reading old posts was a compliment, as compared to newbs who ask questions WITHOUT reading up first. I think you might have thought I meant it differently?)


The solution of course is to buy one of them newfangled 2005+ X's.

:D
Did your belt really break at 95k? Do you have any idea why? That's kind of freighting.

Also interference engines exist because they allow much higher compression ratios, and belts are used because they are cheaper and quieter. Yes, we would like a chain, but oh well.
 

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Did your belt really break at 95k? Do you have any idea why? That's kind of freighting.

Also interference engines exist because they allow much higher compression ratios, and belts are used because they are cheaper and quieter. Yes, we would like a chain, but oh well.
The 2005+ have chains, more horsepower and torque, and better mpg...so, on the X, I'm not sure what we'd be losing on the 3.3 L at least.

If the belts could be made to last the life of the engine, great.

:D
 

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The 2005+ have chains, more horsepower and torque, and better mpg...so, on the X, I'm not sure what we'd be losing on the 3.3 L at least.

If the belts could be made to last the life of the engine, great.

:D
Yeah the difference is insane, but i adore my 03.

So do you know what caused your timing belt to go 10k early at 95k? That's terrifying.
 

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Yeah the difference is insane, but i adore my 03.

So do you know what caused your timing belt to go 10k early at 95k? That's terrifying.
I don't, but, if having a truck working hard shortens a belt's life, well, mea culpa there.

:D
 

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In case anybody cares. Here are pics of my girlfriends Isuzu Rodeo when the tensioner snapped. Interference fit engine and it bent EVERY valve. You can see none of them would close while still in the head. Don't risk it. Change those belts and associated parts.

BEFORE Head Repair



AFTER
 

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In case anybody cares. Here are pics of my girlfriends Isuzu Rodeo when the tensioner snapped. Interference fit engine and it bent EVERY valve. You can see none of them would close while still in the head. Don't risk it. Change those belts and associated parts.

BEFORE Head Repair



AFTER


The after looks better.

:D


On my '01, when I hydrolocked it, it was mostly some bent wrist pins. When the timing belt snapped, it blew a hole in the block.

:D
 
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