Nissan XTerra Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
When I bought my Xterra, I was super stoked. Always wanted a 5spd 4wd, and when it popped up on Craigslist two hours away, I went and picked it up. When I got there, a huge thunderstorm rolled in, and kept me from inspecting it as closely as I should have, a move I would pay for in spades later.



It had open recalls, so the next morning, I ran it to the dealership to have those fixed and get a free 250pt inspection.



Apparently, even though it only had 125k miles, no maintenance had been done, at any time, ever, other than oil changes. Plugs are original, as are belts, and all fluids. The shocks, well, yeah, I'll get to that. It also couldn't be aligned due to a messed up idler arm and tie rod.

After tons of research here (this place is pretty damn great for that btw, even if lots of the threads seem to be years ago) I opt for the Bilstiens from 4x4parts.com. I take the front wheels off, go to remove the shocks and:






These may be the worst condition shocks I have ever seen in my life, ever. Does kind of explain why the Xterra has been wallowing all over the road when I hit a bump.

They were rusted solid to the bottom mount. So solid that I had to use a sawsall to cut the shock, then a grinder to remove the bolt. Unfortunately, as I ground the bolt off, the shocks set the oily rag below me on fire. That was interesting for about five seconds. I had to destroy them all to get them off.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Next, I noticed that every single stinking time it rained, my floorboards were full of water, and my hands got wet. Off to the glass shop.



Turns out, its rusty around the frame, and had to be replaced and resealed. Okee Dokee.




Next I fixed the idler arm and tie rods. Went a head and used the brace, and beefier parts. Was pretty damn easy honestly. Then had the timing belt (and all drive belts) replaced, and oddly, it had much more power after I did. Like noticeably.


Now that it wasn't actively forcing itself off the road with a jacked up front end, I started looking for ways to make it more freeway friendly. Reading threads here (again say thankya) I decided to get a bigger tire. Scored a nearly perfect set of 265/75/16s off Craigslist on the super duper cheap. Figured a bigger tire size would really help on the freeway (it has), so I headed on down to get fitted up.






Turns out, every single lug nut on the drivers side rear were rusted tight, and all but two broke/stripped out as they were removed. Yay. Me.

Luckily the dude was super cool, so I walked two blocks to O'Riellys, bought six new lugs and studs and came back. With my loaner hammer and air gun, I beat them all out, put the new ones in, and was on my way. Whew!






I like the slightly bigger tires, and its much nicer on the freeway.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Now my issue is this. I went to have it aligned, and they can't, again. I mean they got it close, but whatever adjustment nuts/bolts in the control arms are rusted tight, not allowing full adjustment. Also, it appears one of my rear leaf packs are weak, as it leans to the passenger side some, and in looking at them, the angle of the shackle on the passenger side one is different than the drivers. (Something I read here maybe?) Seems like its been something non stop since I got this thing.

I didn't intend on lifting it yet, but if the control arms (the uppers are the ones used for a front end alignment?) and the leaf packs need replacing, maybe I should start looking at that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,824 Posts
Yeah the upper control arm mounting bolts (cam bolts) get rust welded really easily. Almost everyone has to sawzall them off. Dealer only item, or 4x4parts. You'll need the eccentric washers and nuts too.

As for the lean, it could be the front is uneven, which makes the back uneven. Before the alignment, try leveling the front right to left. Of course there will be additional bolts that might be rusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
There is a nissan only junkyard here locally is it worth buying control arms or leaf spring (if needed) used?

I appreciate all tips.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
If you're buying leaf spring get both sides. They take a set and should be changed in pairs or may sit crooked . Nissan only junkyard? I'm envious
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,519 Posts
Not a good idea only in pairs.You need new u-bolts there are one time use, and if it was mine new shakes the bolts are going to be pitted and are going to wear out the new rubber bushings and its going to take a big hammer to get the old ones out might get destroyed removing them. Need lot of good grease for install no sirts to grease them after install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yeah the upper control arm mounting bolts (cam bolts) get rust welded really easily. Almost everyone has to sawzall them off. Dealer only item, or 4x4parts. You'll need the eccentric washers and nuts too.

As for the lean, it could be the front is uneven, which makes the back uneven. Before the alignment, try leveling the front right to left. Of course there will be additional bolts that might be rusted.
So all I have to do is sawsall the upper bolts out, and install the new ones, not remove/replace the entire control arm?

Interesting.

Anyone ever have their brake pads wear unevenly? An ungodly screeching was heard this morning as I drove to work. In lieu of my typical sandwich at my desk, I drove to my buddies house thinking I would throw some brake pads on and head back to work with time to spare. As with every other repair on Ter, I was to be disappointed.

As seen here, the pads are wearing in a 45 degree pattern. And when I did a visual inspection of the pads before, I never noticed the bottoms were wearing uneven from the tops.



I assume its related to this, the caliper bracket slide, all four of which are frozen solid.



I pounded those sonsabitches every which way, and nothing gave. Not nothing, not no how.

So I pulled the bracket.



Put it in a vice, got some heat, put a pipe wrench on it and beat the shit out of it until it let go!










After they were free, I spent about 45 minutes sanding rust out of and lubricating each damn slide hole, polishing each slide on my wire wheel, and oiling it all. Finally, after a two hour lunch, I got it all back together. My boss was sure interested in my greasy hands and PB Blaster cologne smell when I got back late from lunch.

Aint nothing easy I guess. Hahahahah
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top