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33's would not even be noticeable if no one told you they changed your tires (As far as going from a 32" to a 33" diameter goes at least)...so no new gears would be needed.

Even for 35's it would be mostly fine for a 2nd gen (A first gen has ~ 100 fewer HP to work with...and 35's are a REAL drag as far as ooomph for a 1st gen....)

The suspension lift has zero to do with your tire size BTW, the BL is the tire size related mod.


There's nothing wrong with a 2nd gen on 33's...super common mod....a no brainer.

>:D
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Are you saying with 33s I'll still be able to corner at high speeds? I'm pretty worried about the difference since I already take corners at what feels like max speed on some interstate highways..

And lot more highways around here are switching to 80 mph this month.. The highways were built for 55 mph and so there are some corners that are a bit tight at 80.

And a mod melt sounds like its going to make things look not so nice.. Or at least do permanent cosmetic damage.. And isn't going to hit it anyway if you are off-road and compressing things farther?

And if I wasn't going with bigger tires, i just mean there's really no reason to do a SL since it isn't lifting the Diff or Ax or anything..

But if I did go with 33s, I wouldn't need a BL at alll.. I could maybe go 1" BL i guess if I didn't have to extend or replace a bunch of other parts..

Honestly I just don't see the use of a SL, since big tires seem to be the best lift for off-roading.. And they're so expensive, and require rebalancing, etc..

Maybe if there was a simple SL just for looks that didn't need a bunch of other parts replaced I might consider it I guess...

It would be good to do that when adding 33s, I guess, maybe realignment will be cheaper
 
For perspective:

A 33" only sticks out 0.5" more than the 32" tire.

You're talking about this as if you'll be on stilts.

(Frankly, I'd just use the OEM tires until they wear out/you get sick of them...)

:D

The melt mod is just some soft black plastic IN YOUR WHEEL WELL, and you're shrinking it back with a blow drier/heat gun, etc...not going Mad Max on it with a fire axe.

33's clear on compression off road on the 2nd gen X's (Because a 33 is so close to a 32" in clearance...)


The recommendation is to get a wider tire, say a 305/70/16, as the TREAD is wider than a 33x12.5/15's...but the sidewall is a little narrower....and its a 33" diameter tire.

In a corner, the added contact patch adds lateral acceleration ability (Higher G forces) because you have more rubber on the road for handling and braking.

Now, if you get an AT or MT tire, regardless of size, if it works better OFF road, except for deep snow, etc...you will not handle ON the road as well.

So, if you want ZERO compromises in ON road performance, get a ROAD (High speed highway and or performance tire) tire.

If you are OK giving up some ON road performance to get more OFF ROAD performance, then a more aggressive treaded tire (AT or MT) adds a LOT of off road capability.

MT treaded tires are NOT as good on the road, regardless of size....its just the trade offs in design.


If they were shoes, the highway tires are smooth soled basketball sneakers that can grip a wooden floor like an octopus tentacle....and the MT's are Soccer Cleats, that can dig into wet grass and grip the dirt for traction.


If you try to play basketball on a wood court in soccer cleats, you will skid all over the place with very little traction.

If you try to play soccer on a wet grass pitch wearing basketball sneakers, you will skid all over the place with very little traction.

An AT tire is sort of like getting a pair of Cross Trainers, and wearing them for both basketball and soccer...so they are not totally crippled in either sport, but, are not optimized for either sport either.


Those giant paddle-like lugs on an MT are like wearing rubber high heels ON the road...but cleats off the road.

An AT's smaller "cleats" are less wobbly ON the road, so the handling is better than an MT, but not as good as a hwy tread's...and better off road than a hwy tread, but not as good as an MT.


You need to evaluate how much off road prowess you need and how much ON road prowess you need, and decide on where your priorities are.

MOST guys who drive their rigs every day for work, etc...get AT tires for this very reason...as they are going for jack of all trades and master of none.


>:D
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
Ok.. 33s with Melts

305/70/16s

My current 32s are Hankook AT M.. Any idea what AT M means, is it a mix between AT & M?

This current tread is acceptable for my road travel needs.


And my PSI & Weight limit is (so I can find it later):

GVWR x .35 / Tire Max Load Rating = Percent of Max PSI x Max PSI = Min PSI x 1.20 = optimal non-LT tire PSI ran over 60 mph per tire.

5400 x .35 = 1890 / 3860 = 0.49 x 80 = 40 x 1.20 = 48 Target PSI..

Approximately 83% of the Max Rated PSI.. A bit higher than the target 60-80 ideal 70..
 
Ok.. 33s with Melts

305/70/16s

My current 32s are Hankook AT M.. Any idea what AT M means, is it a mix between AT & M?

This current tread is acceptable for my road travel needs.


And my PSI & Weight limit is (so I can find it later):

GVWR x .35 / Tire Max Load Rating = Percent of Max PSI x Max PSI = Min PSI x 1.20 = optimal non-LT tire PSI ran over 60 mph per tire.

5400 x .35 = 1890 / 3860 = 0.49 x 80 = 40 x 1.20 = 48 Target PSI..

Approximately 83% of the Max Rated PSI.. A bit higher than the target 60-80 ideal 70..


That's close enough for now.

83% is not crazy...you just would not have picked it as first choice as far as load range etc.

The ATM is the NAME of the tire, not its tread designation. Its an "AT" tire (All Terrain).

That tire is an AT biased towards street performance for example...not biased towards off road performance, but, more so for off road than say an All Season tire, etc.

It would for example do better in harder packed snow than a more aggressive treaded tire, but less well in deeper, softer snow, and so forth...which is the case for most AT tires.
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
I think ATs will work for me for most uses. May pick up a 2nd pair if stock rims for some separate Snow tires like the Blizzaks..

I don't think MTs can function as well as specialized snow tires like those on snowy roads.

So anyway..
My plan:

1. Wear the 32s til I need replacements then go with 33 ATs, applying the melts then. Hopefully I'll still fit in parking garages with my roof rack.

2. Shrockworks front and Rear Bumpers with Tire Mount.. Unless a 33 will fit underneath where the spare is now.. And if the jack will still work with 33s. Then maybe just the bumper without the tire and Jack mount. I don't have a trailer hitch yet, so I'll wait for the Shrockworks rear bumper with built-in hitch.. I like the look of the rear tire mount as well..

Front bumper is also great for hammocks

3. Side Skid guards maybe, as I like the idea of not worrying about sliding off rocks and the like. But probably don't need those until I have more articulation.. But they seem quite useful anyway.

And Skid plates for underneath the engine, transfer case, diffs, etc..

4. Maybe a Body lift. But I think the Shrockworks come built for either no BL or 3" BL mounts. Im not going higher than 33s so don't really need a BL.. But I think 1" might look nice, but not good for parking garages..

5. No Suspension lift unless I needed to replace Shocks or something later on.. But parking garages are a factor in that too..

6. High flow Exhaust & pipes upgrade when exhaust needs upgrading

7. Don't know about viability of Headers on 2nd gens yet

8. Don't know about Electric fans either yet.

9. CB would be nice.. Don't know where to mount it inside.. And the antenna will have to wait for the rear Shrockworks

10. Maybe someday mount a 12-point full roof sized roof rack i can use as a spotting platform or to set up chairs and watch the fireworks or for photography and videography etc

Won't be doing anything that throws codes or needs computer adjustments though

Any one have other recommendations for good mods for 2nd gens, please let me know
 
I don't know about gen2 but my gen1 with 3.5" of lift and 33s fits in multi story parking garages just fine. My cb antenna hits the low hanging signs and such but it's meant to be hit anyways.

You should be just fine.
 
Have you looked into the Titan swap for suspension stuff? It uses the Titan diff, cv axles, and arms and gives you more travel and clearance. It does sit wider but the couple I have seen that are Titan swapped are not that much taller so that may be an option for you. The downside is it's one of the more expensive options
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Have you looked into the Titan swap for suspension stuff? It uses the Titan diff, cv axles, and arms and gives you more travel and clearance. It does sit wider but the couple I have seen that are Titan swapped are not that much taller so that may be an option for you. The downside is it's one of the more expensive options
What are the effects? Is it going to make any error codes or computer malfunctions or need computer adjustments or anything?

Does it put extra wear on the drive train or any other parts?

Is that just a front axle swap? Is it lockable?

And how much does it cost, and where do you get the parts?
 
What are the effects? Is it going to make any error codes or computer malfunctions or need computer adjustments or anything?



Does it put extra wear on the drive train or any other parts?



Is that just a front axle swap? Is it lockable?



And how much does it cost, and where do you get the parts?

My friend has it done to his xterra. I am not sure on the cost but it won't add any more wear on your drivetrain since you are replacing everything up front. It is only the front that gets the swap.

You shouldn't get any computer codes cause you still use your knuckles and all the abs stuff is on the knuckles.

The cost can vary. Some just buy all new parts from Nissan while others source from junkyards but it is an expensive swap either way.
 
Like Akuria said, it won't cause additional stress on anything because you will use all Titan stuff up front which is heavier duty to begin with. No computer adjustments because it's only suspension hard parts your changing. And cost can vary alot, if you collect the parts over time and scour junkyards, forums, and ebay for deals will be the cheapest way. If your in a hurry then order everything new and be ready to shell out some serious $$$$
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Sounds like a big ordeal..

Probably sounds like something to save until something needs replacing in the front end.. Get parts saved up here and there is a good idea..

And when you say Titan are you referring to the smaller Titan that I think is the new Frontier now?

Its not the big full-size Titan one is it, i don't see how that would fit.
 
Yes the full size big Titan. That's why the front will have a wider stance. That due to the full size Titan having a wider wheel base but all the stuff is pretty much a direct bolt on.
 
What about swapping out the rear? That probably won't work with the differential lock right.

That would look even cooler if they were both big and wide
The titan Pro-4x has a locking diff as well and I cant imagine it being to different from the Xterra locking diff. Car makers tend to like to use as many of the same parts as possible on their lineups. it saves them money and time. BUT I am sure it'll be expensive.

the best thing for you and what most guys do is add wheel spacers to the back to make up the width difference.
 
wheel spacers essentially will add a negative offset to your stock wheels. I don't know what the backspacing is for a gen2 but as an example my gen1 has a stock wheel backspacing of 5.5". If i were to add a 1" spacer it would change my backspacing to 4.5". in the front it will effect things but in the back being that we have solid axles it wont negatively affect anything. BUT since, in this case, the front would have the Titan swap you wouldn't need spacers and your alignment won't be affected.
 
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