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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I don't think the two are correlated but after I replaced the distributor the other week I have been having a weird issue where the temp gauge does not go up when I'm warming the engine up in the morning, it only begins to move when I go to drive and will sometimes jump right up to catch up. Looks like an obvious thermostat sticking but just want to make sure its not a common issue. Already replaced the thermostat and water pump less than 40k ago.

03 Xterra, 3.3L no supercharger :(
 

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2003 SE 4x4 V6 100k miles
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464 Posts
Damn you got the 3.6?! Mine does the same, not sure if it always did that or what but once I noticed it it’s never changed and so far no problem. Haven’t changed the thermostat ever and it’s at 100k so I should do that soon and see what happens. Like I said it hasn’t been a problem, so while it says it’s cold after a few minutes, it obviously has warmed up a bit so I drive on and just ignore it
 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 3.3L AT
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The spade connector on the temp gauge sender is known to loosen on the rivet that attaches it to the sender and allowing it to rotate and give spurious readings. Grab the connector and see if it rotates. Temp sender for the gauge is indicated by the blue arrow.

73959
 

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03 XE A/T, SC coming soon
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Mine does this also. Not concerned about it.

on a side note:
The thermostat on almost all gas engines, VG variants included regulate coolant flow into the radiator. If the thermostat were stuck closed, it would rapidly overheat once at temp, and if it were stuck open, you’d see exceptionally long warm up times. You’d also see evidence of that with poor heater output during warm up. Mine seems to be blowing warm well before the needle “pops up”. Also the gauge reading is fed separately than the ECM’s coolant temperature input so this will not affect drivability or fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah just thought thermostat cause a few times it wasn't blowing warm air until I started revving the engine or started driving

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Yeah just thought thermostat cause a few times it wasn't blowing warm air until I started revving the engine or started driving

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yeah, like the sensor or connector, you likely accidentially knocked that connector when replacing the dizzy, actually cant tell you how many people here have done something similar and later needed help, check the harness as RacerXXL said and you very likely will need a new sensor too. (theyre only like $20)
 

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03 XE A/T, SC coming soon
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Poor heater output at idle that gets hot while revving is a symptom of an air pocket in the cooling system. Usually goes away on its own if it remains full but the 3.3L have an air bleed that can help.
 
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