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Yep. A tap is sharper and cuts more aggressively as it needs to remove more material. There are also a variety of types of taps to be used on different materials and for different purposes. I recommend getting a kit since it will have the correct size and type of tap for the helicoil.
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter #123
I did end up buying the kit, got the job done. But now its running like crap. I had to readjust the idle up because after getting the distributor in place and tight, the idle was so low it kept dying out. Now it just sounds almost like its suffocating 🤔
 

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2001 Xterra 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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Make sure that it's timed correctly, especially if you removed the dizzy to do the work. The dizzy shaft may not be lined up correctly, which will change the timing.
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter #125
That was my thought too but I had to go to work... Going to try to realign it tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #126
OK so I'm not sure if I did this right. I ended up buying a timing light. I figured out where the marks are on the pulley wheel. (Ended up changing out the spark plugs, even though they still worked, they were NASTY!) I'm going to research timing lights some more tonight just so I can understand them better but any input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
2nd picture is where I have it set now
 

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OK so I'm not sure if I did this right. I ended up buying a timing light. I figured out where the marks are on the pulley wheel. (Ended up changing out the spark plugs, even though they still worked, they were NASTY!) I'm going to research timing lights some more tonight just so I can understand them better but any input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
2nd picture is where I have it set now
Those plugs were nasty alright. Been there way too long. Timing light is pretty straight forward. Seems you have oriented yourself to the timing marks. Gather up your timing specs and twist that distributor till you are on the money mark. Suggest you only loosen the distributor lock down just enough to allow the unit to twist with a little resistance so when you hit the mark you can tighten her down without her moving off the mark on you. Be firm but not too tight. Double check the timing with the light after you have tightened it in place. Assuming is not a good thing.
 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 3.3L AT
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Those plugs are cooked.
On the timing light consult the FSM in section MA for the correct procedure for setting the base timing as one of the plugs to the TPS has to be disconnected to do this IIRC.
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter #129 (Edited)
Well 1st off I feel like an idiot... Spent $ on a timing light, then while looking at others posts last night I realized one of my scanners (mini zus) has a timing setting on the live stream 🙄. Anyway, got some pics from this morning. All pics are from after sitting all night to just warming up in the driveway...

1st 3 are cold, 4 screenshots of live readings while in park, next 2 are after warming up, last one is the puddle of antifreeze that leaked last night 😡... Water pump is still leaking!!!

*engine light came back before I even got out of the driveway (P0122 & P0123 both pending & stored) what am I doing wrong???
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Those plugs are cooked.
On the timing light consult the FSM in section MA for the correct procedure for setting the base timing as one of the plugs to the TPS has to be disconnected to do this IIRC.
I fed those plugs to my trash can lol
 

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Well 1st off I feel like an idiot... Spent $ on a timing light, then while looking at others posts last night I realized one of my scanners (mini zus) has a timing setting on the live stream 🙄. Anyway, got some pics from this morning. All pics are from after sitting all night to just warming up in the driveway...

1st 3 are cold, 4 screenshots of live readings while in park, next 2 are after warming up, last one is the puddle of antifreeze that leaked last night 😡... Water pump is still leaking!!!

*engine light came back before I even got out of the driveway (P0122 & P0123 both pending & stored) what am I doing wrong???
So what's up with the bent bracket with the threaded adjusting screw with the nut that is supposed to be providing the adjustment stop for that plunger module attached to the carb? I am thinking that is the coolant driven plunger for fast idle but I don't have the Gen 1 animal in my stable. Did you bend that back trying to lower the idle or did you inherit that? I see the scanner read out for throttle is always at 7. Don't know the numbers that are the norm, but maybe someone with that understanding can comment on that 7 # that seems like it could be high or the ECM is compensating and seeing that as closed.
 

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2001 Xterra 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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I see only 5 plugs, but I'm sure you swapped out 6.

That solenoid that @XT2015 speaks of can leak coolant, so that might be the source of your leak, although it doesn't look wet in the images.
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter #133
So what's up with the bent bracket with the threaded adjusting screw with the nut that is supposed to be providing the adjustment stop for that plunger module attached to the carb? I am thinking that is the coolant driven plunger for fast idle but I don't have the Gen 1 animal in my stable. Did you bend that back trying to lower the idle or did you inherit that? I see the scanner read out for throttle is always at 7. Don't know the numbers that are the norm, but maybe someone with that understanding can comment on that 7 # that seems like it could be high or the ECM is compensating and seeing that as closed.
that is the throttle body idle sensor, no I did not bend it, it's supposed to be that way. I originally thought it might be leaking, attempted to remove it thinking the o-ring was bad but it will not come out so no, it is not the source of any leak. that leak turned out to be a short 1 inch hose just under the front edge of the upper plenum piece. The current leak is coming from the (new & poorly replaced) water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
I see only 5 plugs, but I'm sure you swapped out 6.

That solenoid that @XT2015 speaks of can leak coolant, so that might be the source of your leak, although it doesn't look wet in the images.
nope, not yet, I was not in the mood to fight trying to get to #6 yet... been there, done that, had ssssooooo many bruises from my short self laying on top the truck to get to it on the other X
 

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Discussion Starter #136
There's an app for that. It's called "service technician". :D
oh I learned that the 1st time... paid a "mobile mechanic" to do it. kind of helped that he was like 7ft tall, much easier reach for him lol
 

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As the engine warms up is the fast idle solenoid (the little plunger looking part) moving? It is possible that it's gone bad and is affecting your idle. That arm with the adjustment screw is supposed to be at a 90 degree angle and appears to be bent out. It is possible that the plunger is out further than it should be (bad solenoid aka wax pellet) and has bent the arm. This will affect your idle.

It's purpose is to increase the initial idle on cold startup to get the oil circulating throughout the engine faster. Since I live in the tropics I've actually deleted mine as I don't have cold start ups (72 F is about the coldest it gets). Try removing the arm and spring. You simply undo the nut on the end and slide them off. Make sure the spring doesn't take off on you. Keep the parts together in a safe place.
 

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nope, not yet, I was not in the mood to fight trying to get to #6 yet... been there, done that, had ssssooooo many bruises from my short self laying on top the truck to get to it on the other X
I keep this photo for motivational purposes. I give you my wheeling buddy and fellow CX Admin Drake changing #6 spark plug on another forum members truck during a mod day. It takes him around 2 minutes to change the plug. 😐 Join me now in hating Drake. 🤨

76585
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter #139
As the engine warms up is the fast idle solenoid (the little plunger looking part) moving? It is possible that it's gone bad and is affecting your idle. That arm with the adjustment screw is supposed to be at a 90 degree angle and appears to be bent out. It is possible that the plunger is out further than it should be (bad solenoid aka wax pellet) and has bent the arm. This will affect your idle.

It's purpose is to increase the initial idle on cold startup to get the oil circulating throughout the engine faster. Since I live in the tropics I've actually deleted mine as I don't have cold start ups (72 F is about the coldest it gets). Try removing the arm and spring. You simply undo the nut on the end and slide them off. Make sure the spring doesn't take off on you. Keep the parts together in a safe place.
the idle is better but I keep getting the P0122 & P0123 codes ... hang on, please don't sign off yet, I'm going to try & get a better picture
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter #140
I keep this photo for motivational purposes. I give you my wheeling buddy and fellow CX Admin Drake changing #6 spark plug on another forum members truck during a mod day. It takes him around 2 minutes to change the plug. 😐 Join me now in hating Drake. 🤨

View attachment 76585
SERIOUSLY???? BITE ME DRAKE!!!
 
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