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Yep. The OEM was matic D, but since I use Valvoline Max Life in my transmission I just use it in my steering as well. Matic D isn't available where I live. I you go to my local Nissan they'll say that they get it, but that they can't sell it to customers. Translation: We just put other stuff into the vehicles that we service, but don't want to admit that to the customers.

So, Matic D, Dex/merc III, or equivalent.

When you have the pitman gear out make sure that the reservoir empties as well. If it doesn't Id pop the hose off the bottom of the reservoir and drain it. You might as well do a complete power steering change while you're at it. With a little luck that system will never be apart again. You may even want to flush some fluid through before replacing the seal. In any case, I'd let it sit and drip for a while to allow as much of the old fluid to drain as possible.
 

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2004 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (160k miles) & 2003 xterra 6cyl 3.3L (dead engine)
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Discussion Starter · #242 · (Edited)
Looks like I did something wrong... Filled the reservoir, put about 1 gallon in the radiator and had to grab a drain pan cuz it started leaking out by the rear main seal area again 😭 so I found my problem... Apparently when I "thought" that straight hose behind the plenum pushed into place, it pushed along the side of the pipe instead of over it. I tried to get it over it without removing stuff, my hands don't fit well enough. I started removing the plenum, apparently the gasket sealer worked REALLY WELL... Any other ideas?
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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Yes, ATF is auto trans fluid.

I wonder if @Satito, @Blackberry, @RacerXXL, or anyone else would care to comment on using Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners. I use it in my 2011 Chevy and it makes a difference in smoothness and noise.

76950
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
Yes, ATF is auto trans fluid.

I wonder if @Satito, @Blackberry, @RacerXXL, or anyone else would care to comment on using Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners. I use it in my 2011 Chevy and it makes a difference in smoothness and noise.

View attachment 76950
Yes, ATF is auto trans fluid.

I wonder if @Satito, @Blackberry, @RacerXXL, or anyone else would care to comment on using Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners. I use it in my 2011 Chevy and it makes a difference in smoothness and noise.

View attachment 76950
This is what satito said he uses so that's what I got
 

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you could try a pair of the really long needle nose pliers. The ones with the extra long handle and the
76955
e ones the bent tips. I find that they're super handy to have around and work great on small hoses in difficult places. Nine out of ten times I'm using them to remove spring clamps on lawn mower fuel lines that are tucked back behind the carb etc so that I don't have to remove all the plastic parts to get at it. The same applies to my X. If my hands don't fit, there is a decent chance that these pliers will and the bent tips allow me to grasp the ends of the clamp better from multiple and awkward angles. Mine are about 12" long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
you could try a pair of the really long needle nose pliers. The ones with the extra long handle and the View attachment 76955 e ones the bent tips. I find that they're super handy to have around and work great on small hoses in difficult places. Nine out of ten times I'm using them to remove spring clamps on lawn mower fuel lines that are tucked back behind the carb etc so that I don't have to remove all the plastic parts to get at it. The same applies to my X. If my hands don't fit, there is a decent chance that these pliers will and the bent tips allow me to grasp the ends of the clamp better from multiple and awkward angles. Mine are about 12" long.
I fully agree with you on that, mine have served me well. I did get back there, got the hose off so I could adjust it properly. I've got it pushed onto the bottom pipe all the way but struggling (with a bruised hand) to get it onto the top pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
LOVE that reflector doing double duty as a hood light! (One of my hobbies is photography.)
There was no reflector, just 2 small desk lamps without the shade on hung upside down off the frame of my "carport" canopy lmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
Well my scrawny twig friend from Autozone came over, sat in the engine bay and got the hose on. Then had another leak 🙄, found & fixed that, topped off the radiator... YAY no more leaks!!! Now it won't start. I know its not just going to instantly crank over since i had everything disconnected but 🤔 I'm at a loss here. I can smell gas after I crank it for a cpl seconds but it goes away fairly quick ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
OK so I'm not sure if I did this right. I ended up buying a timing light. I figured out where the marks are on the pulley wheel. (Ended up changing out the spark plugs, even though they still worked, they were NASTY!) I'm going to research timing lights some more tonight just so I can understand them better but any input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
2nd picture is where I have it set now

so while cleaning up tonight, I was racking my brain with what could be the reason why the X won't start... then I remembered it did this before! It kind of stranded me in the autozone parking lot one day and I finally got it started after I figured out the timing ... hopefully this is all it is, trying this tomorrow afternoon 🤞
 

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I wonder if a scanner would help in this instance or if there just isn't enough data during attempted starts to matter much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
I wonder if a scanner would help in this instance or if there just isn't enough data during attempted starts to matter much.
I tried the scanner, it said no dtc's detected
 

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Yeah, Usually the computer needs more data points than attempted starts provide to throw a code. Double check that all your spark plug leads are on the correct plug and on the correct port on the distributor.

Also recheck all of the electrical connectors your had to disconnect. After that I'd check the fuses.

Where are you smelling gas? The tailpipe or the engine bay? If it's the tailpipe that means you are getting gas to the cylinders but obviously no ignition. If it's in the engine bay I'd actually suspect the FPR (assuming the fuel injectors were all seated correctly). Turn the key to prime the fuel system and pop the vacuum line off the back of the intake manifold to see if it drips fuel.

As you mentioned, do check your timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Yeah, Usually the computer needs more data points than attempted starts provide to throw a code. Double check that all your spark plug leads are on the correct plug and on the correct port on the distributor.
*checked these last night, also looked thru FSM after. Going to triple check them today.
Also recheck all of the electrical connectors your had to disconnect. After that I'd check the fuses.
*fuses were good & spent an hour retracing all connectors
Where are you smelling gas? The tailpipe or the engine bay? engine bay If it's the tailpipe that means you are getting gas to the cylinders but obviously no ignition. If it's in the engine bay I'd actually suspect the FPR (assuming the fuel injectors were all seated correctly). Turn the key to prime the fuel system and pop the vacuum line off the back of the intake manifold to see if it drips fuel. *will do this when I check/try timing adjustment

As you mentioned, do check your timing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #256 · (Edited)
This is where my timing marks are currently set, I did not try to start it again yet... Wanted input comments 1st
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Spent a good cpl hrs trying to get the X started yesterday with no luck. Had a friend stop by to take look (fresh set of eyes) still no luck 🤔 don't know what I'm missing here
 

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Spent a good cpl hrs trying to get the X started yesterday with no luck. Had a friend stop by to take look (fresh set of eyes) still no luck 🤔 don't know what I'm missing here
Have you narrowed it down to either no fuel or no spark? Are the plugs getting wet? I like using one of those neon bulb inline ignition testers and putting inline between the plug wire and the distributor connection to see if she is lighting up on a regular basis as she spins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
Have you narrowed it down to either no fuel or no spark? Are the plugs getting wet? I like using one of those neon bulb inline ignition testers and putting inline between the plug wire and the distributor connection to see if she is lighting up on a regular basis as she spins.
A friend of mine had me pull the #1 plug & wire, put the plug into the wire, I held it aimed at a metal bracket, had my son crank it... Saw no spark. Yes the distributer is spinning.
 

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A friend of mine had me pull the #1 plug & wire, put the plug into the wire, I held it aimed at a metal bracket, had my son crank it... Saw no spark. Yes the distributer is spinning.
"Held it "aimed" at a metal bracket"????? The threaded ground portion of the plug should be making solid contact with a clean engine block ground directly to enable a possible spark at the center electrode when testing in such a manner.
 
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