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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just upgraded front rotors and pads. After reinstalling I’m getting a clicking sound around 10mph from the front left hub. Took both off and the left side is definitely bad. I was looking for replacements online and only see one brand. My question is can I replace the automatic locking hubs with any brand manual locking hubs or do I have to put auto’s back on? I have 2 weeks before I have to move and would really appreciate any info as soon as possible.
2002 Gen 1.5 model
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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To the best of my knowledge, so long as they actually fit, you can use whatever brand will go on there. Some brands may be less ideal, so you'll need to do some research.

If you have time, a trip to the junkyard might net you a pair of manual hubs. Check Frontiers from the 1990s since they have the same basic running gear as the Gen1 Xterras.
 

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2003 Xterra XE 3.3, 4WD, 5-speed Manu
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I just upgraded front rotors and pads. After reinstalling I’m getting a clicking sound around 10mph from the front left hub. Took both off and the left side is definitely bad. I was looking for replacements online and only see one brand. My question is can I replace the automatic locking hubs with any brand manual locking hubs or do I have to put auto’s back on? I have 2 weeks before I have to move and would really appreciate any info as soon as possible.
2002 Gen 1.5 model
Any 28-spline hub should work. I have been very happy with the Warn Premium manual locking hubs (29091) I put on my 2003 Xterra. The swap takes less than an hour to do both sides. Be careful not to over torque the retaining nuts or you will shear off a stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To the best of my knowledge, so long as they actually fit, you can use whatever brand will go on there. Some brands may be less ideal, so you'll need to do some research.

If you have time, a trip to the junkyard might net you a pair of manual hubs. Check Frontiers from the 1990s since they have the same basic running gear as the Gen1 Xterras.
Thank you
 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 3.3L AT
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It’s a toss up. I’ve seen plenty of Warn manuals scatter to bits and OEM Autos break as well. I’m still running my original set but I have autos for spares.

For manuals I’d find a set from a Hardbody I think 94 thru 97 are 28 spline as pointed out above.
 

· Brooklyn br0
'01XE 4x4 3.3AT Locked SAS 35's
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Oh boy, let me go on and on and on about this…sorry…








What normally "breaks" within our “Auto-lock free running hub assembly” (Nissan Part #40250-1S700) is the “Fixed cam assembly”.
I was told that part of it was made of plastic (top left in last pic above^) in order to act as a “fuse” within our front drive; designed to fail saving other more expensive parts (odd that I’ve never had one fail during the many CV axle failures I experienced in the past…but I digress). I always figured it was made of plastic to help quiet it down but WTF do I know....
Anyways, when needing to replace the ““Fixed cam assembly” you will find the part is now called the "Thrust Washer", Nissan Lookup code 40256D, Nissan part number 40218-8B400
At NissanPartsDeal HERE $72.54 Yikes!

I'd make sure that's what I needed and check a junkyard first.

Your other option is to find and purchase non-OEM hubs.

I am in total agreement with RacerXXL. My preferred replacement was always a set of old Hard Body Manual Hubs (Nissan Part #40250-S3900)



that are even more difficult to find than our OEM Autos.
I ran them for years before I SAS's my egg crate and the only time I had a problem with them was when the cheap, slightly larger than OEM non Nissan replacement POS Chinese made CV shaft I used caused them to get stuck in "Lock" (the larger "stub-shaft" part of the replacement pushed a gear within the hub out of place, easy fix).
The only time I had to replace them was when the "stub-shaft" part of the cheap non-Nissan replacement POS Chinese made CV shaft, I used blew up inside the hub! (Note to self: don't use cheap non-Nissan replacement POS Chinese made CV shafts).:rolleyes:

Hard Body hubs use the same studs as our OEM Autos, an added benefit.(y)
These studs are, IMHO, awesome. If you take notice, we don’t need to use any lock washers when installing our hubs. That’s because these studs “stretch” and then hold. Hence the relatively low torque (18-25 ft-lbs). Most folks over tighten these bolts and/or fail to torque them down evenly causing them to break.

There are two aftermarket brands of Manuals I’ve seen on the trail. WARN and MileMarker. I have not run ether and personally would run OEM Autos if I could find them before using ether.

Both stick out further than OEM so get beat up during any type of rock crawling.

Warn model 29091 (Warn on Amazon) Manual Hubs have a “common” stud failure that I’ve personally seen. Some folks have tried to avoid that failure using grade 8 bolts and thread-loc however, IMHO, it’s kinda F’d up that you need to modify the studs with a new, out of the box $200+ item…

There could also be two problems you might encounter using those grade 8 bolts.
First is that if they break (never seen it) they would be even harder to tap out of the wheel hub than the supplied WARN studs.
Second is that if they start to back out they destroy your "wheel hub" by “egging out” the holes requiring replacement of that "wheel hub" (I’ve seen this happen and helped fix more than once).
So the trick with WARN hubs would be to be vigilant with your driving not hitting the part of the hub that sticks out and monitoring torque of the studs/bolts so they don’t have a chance to back out. Kind of a pain but better than nutin…I guess.

Mile Marker 6 BOLT, 28 SPLINE HUB Model 435 manuals are also widely available although I care for them even less than WARN. Almost every guy I’ve been on the trail with that ran MileMarker manuals has had at least one explode. I’ve personally seen one blow up on the trail for no apparent reason. I know a lot of folks on the boards never had any problem with them, but I would not use them on my truck.

If I gotta be honest I'd go to a junkyard set of used Nissan auto's before I'd put MM or Warn hubs on my eggcrate...but that's me just sayin’.

Another option could be;
AVM Model 461 Manual, 961 Auto
I've never seen these but was told AVM made the Hard Body Manual Hubs I like so much. I’d research a bit more, but the brand is well respected, and they look beefy.

I’ve seen similar looking hubs on eBay however, IMHO, there’s a lot there I’d be worried about including but not limited to; the Chinese origin, “NOT be responsible for any delay”, prices quoted seldom mentioning include taxes, VAT, or other hidden charges and most of all the "...images are for reference only" statement. Yikes!

I've ran my ARB equipped front on OEM auto hubs and although I've blown through a couple of axles, I've never blown an OEM auto hub.

So to recap my preference; OEM HardBody Manuals (40250-S3900), then our OEM Auto Hub (40250-1S700), if I could not find those I’d try the AVM and then the WARN.

Sorry to drone on, hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh boy, let me go on and on and on about this…sorry…








What normally "breaks" within our “Auto-lock free running hub assembly” (Nissan Part #40250-1S700) is the “Fixed cam assembly”.
I was told that part of it was made of plastic (top left in last pic above^) in order to act as a “fuse” within our front drive; designed to fail saving other more expensive parts (odd that I’ve never had one fail during the many CV axle failures I experienced in the past…but I digress). I always figured it was made of plastic to help quiet it down but WTF do I know....
Anyways, when needing to replace the ““Fixed cam assembly” you will find the part is now called the "Thrust Washer", Nissan Lookup code 40256D, Nissan part number 40218-8B400
At NissanPartsDeal HERE $72.54 Yikes!

I'd make sure that's what I needed and check a junkyard first.

Your other option is to find and purchase non-OEM hubs.

I am in total agreement with RacerXXL. My preferred replacement was always a set of old Hard Body Manual Hubs (Nissan Part #40250-S3900)



that are even more difficult to find than our OEM Autos.
I ran them for years before I SAS's my egg crate and the only time I had a problem with them was when the cheap, slightly larger than OEM non Nissan replacement POS Chinese made CV shaft I used caused them to get stuck in "Lock" (the larger "stub-shaft" part of the replacement pushed a gear within the hub out of place, easy fix).
The only time I had to replace them was when the "stub-shaft" part of the cheap non-Nissan replacement POS Chinese made CV shaft, I used blew up inside the hub! (Note to self: don't use cheap non-Nissan replacement POS Chinese made CV shafts).:rolleyes:

Hard Body hubs use the same studs as our OEM Autos, an added benefit.(y)
These studs are, IMHO, awesome. If you take notice, we don’t need to use any lock washers when installing our hubs. That’s because these studs “stretch” and then hold. Hence the relatively low torque (18-25 ft-lbs). Most folks over tighten these bolts and/or fail to torque them down evenly causing them to break.

There are two aftermarket brands of Manuals I’ve seen on the trail. WARN and MileMarker. I have not run ether and personally would run OEM Autos if I could find them before using ether.

Both stick out further than OEM so get beat up during any type of rock crawling.

Warn model 29091 (Warn on Amazon) Manual Hubs have a “common” stud failure that I’ve personally seen. Some folks have tried to avoid that failure using grade 8 bolts and thread-loc however, IMHO, it’s kinda F’d up that you need to modify the studs with a new, out of the box $200+ item…

There could also be two problems you might encounter using those grade 8 bolts.
First is that if they break (never seen it) they would be even harder to tap out of the wheel hub than the supplied WARN studs.
Second is that if they start to back out they destroy your "wheel hub" by “egging out” the holes requiring replacement of that "wheel hub" (I’ve seen this happen and helped fix more than once).
So the trick with WARN hubs would be to be vigilant with your driving not hitting the part of the hub that sticks out and monitoring torque of the studs/bolts so they don’t have a chance to back out. Kind of a pain but better than nutin…I guess.

Mile Marker 6 BOLT, 28 SPLINE HUB Model 435 manuals are also widely available although I care for them even less than WARN. Almost every guy I’ve been on the trail with that ran MileMarker manuals has had at least one explode. I’ve personally seen one blow up on the trail for no apparent reason. I know a lot of folks on the boards never had any problem with them, but I would not use them on my truck.

If I gotta be honest I'd go to a junkyard set of used Nissan auto's before I'd put MM or Warn hubs on my eggcrate...but that's me just sayin’.

Another option could be;
AVM Model 461 Manual, 961 Auto
I've never seen these but was told AVM made the Hard Body Manual Hubs I like so much. I’d research a bit more, but the brand is well respected, and they look beefy.

I’ve seen similar looking hubs on eBay however, IMHO, there’s a lot there I’d be worried about including but not limited to; the Chinese origin, “NOT be responsible for any delay”, prices quoted seldom mentioning include taxes, VAT, or other hidden charges and most of all the "...images are for reference only" statement. Yikes!

I've ran my ARB equipped front on OEM auto hubs and although I've blown through a couple of axles, I've never blown an OEM auto hub.

So to recap my preference; OEM HardBody Manuals (40250-S3900), then our OEM Auto Hub (40250-1S700), if I could not find those I’d try the AVM and then the WARN.

Sorry to drone on, hope it helps.
Wow! I don’t mind that reply AT ALL! That was an awesome breakdown and I greatly appreciate it. I mean I really do. Thank you so much for taking that time for a thorough breakdown. I live an hour east of Reno and there’s a Summit Racing store there that has the MM 435’s. I watched a quick comparison of Warn vs MM and I like the all metal in the MM’s. That’s what I’m gonna go with and while I have the auto’s off I’m gonna see if I can “rebuild them”. Also, you said the bolts “stretch”? Kinda like head bolts on a motor? If that’s the case then it seems like it would be smart to replace them every time you have to take them off right? I mean if you wanna do it properly. As far as I know head bolts are one time use and these should follow the same principle? I ALWAYS tighten in a star pattern to make sure it’s done right. Again, thank you. Couldn’t have gotten a better break down. It’s greatly appreciated.
 

· Brooklyn br0
'01XE 4x4 3.3AT Locked SAS 35's
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More like wheel lugs than head bolts. Like lugs, I've never changed them unless they snapped.The FSM doesn't spell out any sequence but I always tightened them the same as lug nuts.



I used to put "blue" thread loc on them but it's kinda unnecessary and a pain to clean out of the wheel hub every time you're in there to repack wheel bearings or change a busted CV Axle (worse if you're changing that crap out on the trail).
 

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I just upgraded front rotors and pads. After reinstalling I’m getting a clicking sound around 10mph from the front left hub. Took both off and the left side is definitely bad. I was looking for replacements online and only see one brand. My question is can I replace the automatic locking hubs with any brand manual locking hubs or do I have to put auto’s back on? I have 2 weeks before I have to move and would really appreciate any info as soon as possible.
2002 Gen 1.5 model
I replaced the auto hubs on a 2002 with SKP brand (china) the hub rubbed somewhere and made a grinding sound, well anyways use warn hubs
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just wanted to update you guys… I went with the Mile Marker 435’s. So far so good. After installation I engaged them and they worked fine. Just made a 6 hour trip from Fallon, NV to Visalia, CA and no issues. I’m sure the Warn premiums are good too, but they had to ship me and I couldn’t wait so I went to the Summit Racing store in Reno and picked em up the next day.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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You could drive from Fallon to outer Mongolia with those and never see an issue, because the only time they come into play is when you engage them. And that's something that most folks do not do when they select 2WD.

Although, since they're manual hubs, you could lock them in and drive in 2WD. All you'd accomplish aside from less MPG is to spin both half-shafts along with the front diff and propeller shaft, so they'd be lubricated from all that motion.

When you'll actually be able to determine if they meet muster is when you go off-road in 4WD. I hope they last and do a good job for you.

I'm jealous because you live so close to a SRE store! Of course, I'd probably spend more than I already do, so maybe that's a good thing. ;)
 

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04 4x4 v6, Pml, front and rear bumpers.
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Sorry I'll have to disagree with leaving the hubs locked, I have had quite a few vehicles come with terrible pulls, worn-out cv axles and bearings from leaving the hubs locked in.

I think it's fine for short term drives, but it's just one more thing to go wrong in my opinion.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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I kinda figured that turning all that iron via the hubs would be enough to discourage him from doing so. My point was more that he'll never know if those hubs are any good until he uses them while off-roading. He could put any junk on there and it won't make any difference until he uses them while off-roading.

If he drives in 2WD with them locked, the additional point that I left out is how much wear and tear it'll put on the stuff that's spinning.

You are 100% right, and @Bklyn.X "liked" your comment, so that just adds to it being correct. Good catch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I kinda figured that turning all that iron via the hubs would be enough to discourage him from doing so. My point was more that he'll never know if those hubs are any good until he uses them while off-roading. He could put any junk on there and it won't make any difference until he uses them while off-roading.

If he drives in 2WD with them locked, the additional point that I left out is how much wear and tear it'll put on the stuff that's spinning.

You are 100% right, and @Bklyn.X "liked" your comment, so that just adds to it being correct. Good catch!
I was pickin up what you were puttin down. I appreciate everyone’s opinions. You can always learn something new from people if you listen, so I try to. Thanks fellas
 
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