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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My '02 X 5-Speed 4x4 is now stranded at Dairy Queen! Yesterday I had ran battery down and got a jump....drove it fine several times after. Then last night coming home from McDonald's I noticed it not accelerating I didn't know what was the problem.....all the lights were on just fine, I managed to get it maybe a quarter mile into DQ parking lot and it shut down. It sounds like it will start but just won't. I thought at first it was my battery? Just a bit of history, I found it odd that when I got my jump the horn was honking as though the security system was working...it hasn't worked since I got the truck! And I've ran the battery down before. Also, I've been running with o2 sensor and cat. codes for quite a while now thinking that I could put those off until after the holidays.
Just all fyi. I know nothing about cars so ANY INFO will help greatly!!! Tools are extremely limited. A HUGE thank you so much in advance to any help!!! ;p

Edit: There was no rough idle, no sound, no nothing, just no go when I pushed the pedal...although it did manage to go enough to get me across the road, up a bit and into DQ parking lot, this is where it finally just stopped running and wouldn't start. No warning what so ever there was a problem.

Just changed fuel filter and battery checked out fine....really need help. It sounds like it's gonna start right up, but nope!
 

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Sounds like the cats are plugged up .Putting those codes on the back burner will damage the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sounds like the cats are plugged up .Putting those codes on the back burner will damage the engine.
Would that cause it to just not go...without jerking or making noises??? I was hoping it was something else lol. I was wondering if it was maybe fuel injectors. But I think you're right and I was afraid of that. Do you think maybe replacing the o2 sensors would do it? Or will I need both that and cat. I know I have two cats and four 02 Sensors. I got the test from O'Reilley's, and theirs is a "general" test, it doesn't do "exact" what's wrong.
Either way I'm in a pickle....I don't have that kind of money lol, I need to figure out that end of it too, before DQ decides they don't like my X any more lol!!! I did first get the engine codes last January when I was also broke! Yes, not good!

To dejablue.....Understood!!!! Thank you so much for your help!!! I knew better than to drive with trouble codes, but just trying to skim by......I really hope I haven't done too much damage. Again, thank you!!! I'm going to see if my son can change out the cat. for me.

One more question, is there a way to tell "which" cat is bad? The O'Reilley's scan says "bank 1".

I just have to thank you again for your help just in case it doesn't let me respond again!!!!!!!
 

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Would that cause it to just not go...without jerking or making noises??? I was hoping it was something else lol. I was wondering if it was maybe fuel injectors. But I think you're right and I was afraid of that. Do you think maybe replacing the o2 sensors would do it? Or will I need both that and cat. I know I have two cats and four 02 Sensors. I got the test from O'Reilley's, and theirs is a "general" test, it doesn't do "exact" what's wrong.
Either way I'm in a pickle....I don't have that kind of money lol, I need to figure out that end of it too, before DQ decides they don't like my X any more lol!!! I did first get the engine codes last January when I was also broke! Yes, not good!
Replacing the o2 sensor will do nothing they are only a messenger telling you some thing is wrong .When you replace the cats the o2 sensor will sense the problem is fixed and correct the ECM .If you continue to drive you trash the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
PROBLEM SOLVED????

Wow, never expected this......turns out the timing belt is broke! Don't know if it's because of the valves yet, I was driving when it happened....but I got impatient and finally took it to a shop and this is what they just told me today!

Thank you dejablue; for all of your help, it's greatly appreciated!!! I hope this helps someone as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There's 150k on it....I hope whatever is wrong is covered by my "Cars" warranty lol!!! Again, thanks for your help...I will post again when I find out all that was wrong.
 

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I would be surprised if they did ,you have to do your part of the maintenance and the timing belt should have been changed at 105000.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There's 150k on it....I hope whatever is wrong is covered by my "Cars" warranty lol!!! Again, thanks for your help...I will post again when I find out all that was wrong.
Well I bought it a year ago with 143k on it and really didn't know what had been done. The engine and all looked brand spanking new to me, and had no indication anything was wrong until my engine light came on with the o2 sensor and catalytic conv. after idling for about an hour to keep someone warm. That's what I've focused on. Yes I've rode with that code way too long you're right, gonna take care of it asap. I'm just trying to get past these darned holidays again. If you have any suggestions on other pertinent maintenance I should focus on after this, and the catalytic conv., by all means let me know...I like my X too much to see it go down.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Must Return to Shop New Problems Help!

PROBLEM SOLVED????

Wow, never expected this......turns out the timing belt is broke! Don't know if it's because of the valves yet, I was driving when it happened....but I got impatient and finally took it to a shop and this is what they just told me today!

Thank you dejablue; for all of your help, it's greatly appreciated!!! I hope this helps someone as well.
Okay, got my truck back last Friday (1/1/2016) from getting new "Timing Belt kit" put on (valves ok, that's all I was told, I now have more questions for them)....had to do short road-trip and noticed the engine sounded like it was working way too hard, rpms way to high...had to drive in 5th when normally in 4th. Shop was closed by the time I realized. Called first thing Monday morning....he acted like I didn't have a clue about what I was talking about when I told him the rpms were running too high, but he told me to go ahead and bring it in.
Took it in Tuesday morn. and the owner started it up, said "yep, running too high!" dah!!!! lol. Oh ya, mpg was now horrible!!! The mechanic came out and told me there was a step at the end of doing the timing belt kit he was unaware he needed to do.......and this is what caused the problem of high rpms.....SO, he did "said" step and I got my truck back Tuesday!

NEW Probs now.
1. Found big puddle of water under driver-side towards radiator end after driving about four blocks today.
2. Also nice large fist-sized puddle of oil under passenger-side towards radiator end.
Keep in mind that my truck did NOT have a single leak of any kind until they worked on it. It didn't even leak while it was stranded at Dairy Queen.
***This was second time to drive it since repair, first time was at night...I don't drive much.

They wanted $600 but I talked them down to $500 then found out when I got the bill that they had charged me $50 for a 1 mile tow (most people wouldn't charge for the short tow if they do the repairs) and $36 for anti-freeze that you had to look real hard to be able to tell it wasn't water and it's getting down to 7-10 degrees tonight and it wasn't even full! So really all I did was talk him out of most of the bogus charges!

Now I have to take it back in, can anyone tell me what I should know about the leaks...so I'm not so uninformed when I go back Monday....cause I'm pissed, my rpms are now even higher than originally....1500 idle, it was about 1100-1200 when I took it back this first time.

Also, what should the idle (in neutral) rpms be...like 650-800??? Certainly under 1000 I would think?

Sorry about the book, just trying to be thorough.

ANY AND ALL INFO GREATLY APPRECIATED! :nerd:
 

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The valves are probable bent.The motor is going to detente soon.If you stop driving now you probable can fix it .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, are you saying that they didn't inspect my truck thoroughly enough to realize this? Or would this be a common mistake on the mechanic's part to miss bent valves??? They had originally told me the valves were fine.
What do you suggest I say when I take it back, and can I expect them to cover the expense of further repairs as needed?????

At this point I'm just disgusted...for such poor quality of work and it's taking forever....I wish I had known more about this shop before I called them, there just aren't any shops that I've heard consistent good reviews about in this town. I'm afraid to have my oil changed!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay.....do you feel this test should be done at their expense, and do you feel that if the valves ARE bent or damaged they should be repaired at their expense....or mine? They did tell me the valves were fine. They said they checked everything.
They also said they put a "kit" in. New timing belt, water pump, & tensioners. (probably not spelled right).

And IF the valves ARE bent.....does this mean the job was pointless and needs to be done all over again????
 

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The compression test should have been done first ,they should give you the test results and let you decide to continue the work . The test should show 150 to 160 lb per cyl there are 6 cyl and the total should not be more than 10% different from all the cyl ,and any thing less the valves are damaged.Less than 5% of the engines have no valve damage,so odds are not on your side. If the valves are bent that's your fault for not doing timing belt maintenance. If the valves are bent all the work they did will need to be redone . The water leak was caused by them (no charge) But the oil leak has me confused there would be no reason to open up the crank case to cause a oil leak from changing the timing belt. I am thinking the motor may be damaged and some thing has made a hole in the crank case. Did they change the cam seals and crank seal ??How does the over all sound of engine sound any different??
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Just have to thank you so much for your time and knowledge...I greatly appreciate it!!

They did not tell or explain or ask me anything about a test. They said they checked it out, they wanted a copy of my warranty, the timing belt was broke and the valves were not damaged and that I was lucky; otherwise it would be a major expense. That is all that was said about that.

I haven't noticed any difference in sound at all, but I croaked when I looked under my truck and saw fluids on the ground. We were expecting snow, so hadn't done anything, I'm going to drive a block or two in the morning and first double check the idle speed...then drive a couple of blocks then park it over some cardboard and let it sit for a bit. This, I would think...confirm the problems.

So even though they said they checked valves and gave them the ok....it would be my expense? Don't you think some damage could have occurred while driving with them bent if they actually are? I would think that would be their "bad"????

The oil has me puzzled as well.....and it upsets me, I don't find it a coincidence.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok, back again....hopefully for the last time on this matter.

The truck is idling under 1,000 rpms now....and no more oil that I've seen....the only thing I notice is I keep having to top off the anti-freeze (I just don't think they filled it full) and when I shut of my truck after a drive there is always a puddle of water under driver side by front of vehicle. I never see it dripping....but it's there. It is water...no color or odor. Not sure why this is?????

I'm hoping I don't have to take back to this shop...if I do I will, but I think I'll be using Hickman's 50 miles away from now on. They do things right the first time, and they don't cut corners or over charge. I don't know why I didn't use them here other than hoping to find a decent mechanic closer to home.

Any response on the water would be appreciated...thanks After this it's the catalytic converters!!!! ugg...... :p
 
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