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This entire post is based on totally false information.

1st gen xterra cooling systems and heat sink on these engines cause knock/ping. Fix the cooling system and the knock sensor issue goes away. Low speed, hot conditions and loading overwhelm the cooling system.

In other words, by hiding the knock sensor issue, damage is still being done, you just made a patch to hide the alert.

Fix it correctly by retrofitting your cooling system with a few mods. It irks me that so many people have wasted untold thousands of dollars on this. Lead a horse to water, can't make it drink, my dad use to say....
I've been researching this subject off-and-on for two years now, and your post is the first time I have ever heard anything that relates a ks code to the cooling system. Please tell us more. I have replaced almost everything on that engine and still can't get the code to go away. Never heard a single ping either.
 

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What if I were to keep the original wires? Could I just move a new knock sensor to the new location, using original wiring? It seems to be long enough to move.

Since I had to get mine towed home due to it decided to pour oil all over the starter (valve cover gasket gave up), I decided to take this time to replace the gaskets, find the knock sensor, and replace the knock sensor. Then I joined this forum, while the vehicle is in my garage in pieces, and I find out about the knock sensor relocation as an option. Well, I'd like to relocate it for ease of access in the future, but I don't want to splice any wires. It looks like the wires would be long enough to move to the new location. Guides about relocating all point about snagging the wires from a different vehicle, and buying the knock sensor for that vehicle. I'm not sure if that was for price, or if the knock sensors actually are designed for certain placement....
 

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I've been researching this subject off-and-on for two years now, and your post is the first time I have ever heard anything that relates a ks code to the cooling system. Please tell us more. I have replaced almost everything on that engine and still can't get the code to go away. Never heard a single ping either.
the knock sensor has nothing to do with engine temp or the cooling system, this guy is blowing steam. knock sensors are pezo-magnetic and listen to the vibrations in the engine block and if they pick up on vibrations out of the normal range they retard the timing to allow the knock to stop, except in the 3.3l v6 their is no direct way of advancing or retarding the timing since it is run by a mechanical distributor with no on the fly adjustments available. most of the time people discover these codes on the 3.3l motors it is due to an unrelated issue that caused the CEL to actually illuminate (p0325 and 0328 do not cause the engine light to turn on in these models, it just stores the code and its always a pending code meaning it has not been confirmed as a problem) the knock sensor wiring is the problem and I think it actually gets too hot where they ran the loom and burns the wires and that is what causes the codes and why you can never fix these codes when you have done everything short of rewiring. I had the p0328 on my 98 pathfinder with the 3.3L motor and never knew until 4 years after I bought it when I left the gas cap off and had to get the codes read and turned off (didn't have my own reader at the time) and the 2 codes where p0328 and some evap leak code that indicates gas cap loose, that's when I did some research on the p0328 code since my cel never came back on I simply forgot about it and less than 3 months later that pathfinder got sideswiped and totaled out, it had almost 200k miles on it and had been a great truck, I still miss it. the shop that read the codes at the time I knew well and they said they had seen that code on similar nissans before and it was one of those non issue codes. then later on I got a beat up 2000 xterra with the 3.3L and it ended up getting some code I don't recall what for, but it also had the p0325 code and that time I tried to mess with it since I worked at a parts store at the time I tried new wiring and a new sensor and the code stayed after resetting the ecu so I just ignored it and never had any engine or mechanical issues related to knock or the engine code.

The biggest issue on the 3.3 is where they put the knock sensor and its wiring which is what causes these issues. that and failing distributors which both my 3.3l engines had to have replaced at less than 1000 miles apart (different years and times as the pathfinder had been totaled by then) but their respective odometers where within 1000 miles of 170k when the distributor failed in both of them. easy to fix though.
 

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Try it on the highway, I think it keeps the transmission overdrive locked out. It's easy to check just use the button on gear selector at highway stable speed. depressing it should see a noticeable uptick in RPM.
 

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Try it on the highway, I think it keeps the transmission overdrive locked out. It's easy to check just use the button on gear selector at highway stable speed. depressing it should see a noticeable uptick in RPM.
maybe on the supercharged 03 and 04 models, i know for a fact it didnt on the 00-02 and non supercharged 02-04s
 

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maybe on the supercharged 03 and 04 models, i know for a fact it didnt on the 00-02 and non supercharged 02-04s
So I ended up having to do the whole timing kit after the X pooped out on me. It was running well, but still had some hiccups while running. My engine light just came on and it is running pretty rough. Idling at 1500RPM. I change the distributor and all the plugs when I did the timing kit. I went to Auto Zone and pulled the code. It had the p-0327 (knock Sensor), but also had p-0154 (oxygen circuit bank 2;no activity). From what I've been reading, it is probably the oxygen sensor and not the KS??
 

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The knock sensor code won't cause the light to come on. Did you check the timing after doing the timing belt and distributor?
 

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The knock sensor code won't cause the light to come on. Did you check the timing after doing the timing belt and distributor?[/QUOTE

We checked the timing yesterday and everything was fine. Would that cause the o2 code? Would my Cat going bad cause no activity in the o2 sensor?
 

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So I ended up having to do the whole timing kit after the X pooped out on me. It was running well, but still had some hiccups while running. My engine light just came on and it is running pretty rough. Idling at 1500RPM. I change the distributor and all the plugs when I did the timing kit. I went to Auto Zone and pulled the code. It had the p-0327 (knock Sensor), but also had p-0154 (oxygen circuit bank 2;no activity). From what I've been reading, it is probably the oxygen sensor and not the KS??
As the guy above me answered, the knock sensor will not trigger the engine light to turn on, just stores the code. your issues are most likely related to the o2 sensor code, possibly an exhaust leak
 

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"No activity" might be a failing sensor, poor connection, or bad ground possibly. Don't think that would cause poor running condition though. That's why I asked about the timing. Vacuum hose or exhaust leak might be worth looking for though.
 

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"No activity" might be a failing sensor, poor connection, or bad ground possibly. Don't think that would cause poor running condition though. That's why I asked about the timing. Vacuum hose or exhaust leak might be worth looking for though.
Just took a look at the upstream o2 sensor and its almost cut all the way through... Probably from wheeling and heat. But that wouldn't make the truck run crappy? I might just bring it in to a shop to check the exhaust..
 

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I would think an exhaust leak would be obvious (loud). Look for a vacuum hose leak. Get some carb or starter fluid and spray it around the engine bay in sections. Listen for the engine RPM's to rise. If that occurs then pinpoint it with the spray until you find it.
 

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I would think an exhaust leak would be obvious (loud). Look for a vacuum hose leak. Get some carb or starter fluid and spray it around the engine bay in sections. Listen for the engine RPM's to rise. If that occurs then pinpoint it with the spray until you find it.
not always, but one big enough to make it run like crap should be. what he suggested is a good way to check for vacuum leaks which you may have but the truck does need all o2 sensors functioning to run correctly as this confirms that the engine's burning the fuel mix right and that the fuel mix is set right (14.7 parts air to 1 part gas is ideal) it uses the 02 sensors and MAF to determine this by using the maf to sense the volume of air being taken in and 02 sensors to determine how well the mix is being burned and if it is too rich or lean what adjustments it needs to make to correct. if one of these sensors is cut as mentioned above it can cause poor drive-ability and poor mpg and usually noticeable power loss as it will usually run richer to try and compensate and richer the mix the less power you get the worse your mpg and the more likely you are to wet foul your plugs and dump raw fuel in the exhaust causing more issues with the cats.
 

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Is that the time it takes average Joe or a real mechanic?
For starters the KS is located under the intake manifold not under the intake plenum. I would think depending on your skill set 4-6 for a decent DIY maybe as much as 8 for someone not very skilled. Also that is on an NA engine on the SC engine it may be 8-10. But then again if you have an NA engine why even change it?
 

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Excellent discussion on this topic. I ran a diagnostic test using an INNOVA 3100j last night and the knock sensor error code came up (service engine light was on and I have since reset to start fresh). I checked with my local garage and put in Lucas high octane boost and full tank a 91 octane premium gas. So far the truck is running great. The punch line is I was running 87 octane and that was not a good thing to be doing (I am a new Nissan owner).
Taking it for a 1 hour run on the highway tomorrow ... Oh and I love the truck - coming from new Hondas, Kias, etc.

2002 3.3 SE with S/C and 269,000kms (150k miles)
 
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