[B1GJ4Y]

I found why you don't touch the little screw behind the throttle body wheel whatever it's called. Well I got the tps set at .50 volts perfect idle now. It ran good in the past but all the gears specifically o/d I'd have to let off the throttle to a tiny bit to make o/d engage. No bad shifts they where a little baggy. But after setting my tps back to spec. All my gears shift amazing way better than before a bit more firm and I never have to let off the throttle anymore. But now the problem is that it won't down shift when I floor it. It down shifts when breaking and all just fine. Example would be I'm in 3rd gear I floor it at 20 and it goes to 2nd and just lugs along. Instead of going to 1st gear like it would before. Now to note if I put it in 1st gear it'll down shift and I use the selector to to shift to 2nd to keep on accelerating at wot. I adjusted the throttle cable as there was play in it. It opens all the way up and closes just how it should. To note I know the procedure is to do this when fully cold and adjust it when it's hot. It did do so but I skipped the cold part cause I had to drive to get the multimeter. Should I redo it? Or did something else get messed up doing so? I'd just hate to do it all over and my shifting goes back to how it was. It's perfect now minus the downshift part.

 

[B1GJ4Y]

Anyone have a clue? It's sitting right at .50 now. Fixing to take it for a spin and see if it'll down shift at wot now. Only other thing I can think of is I I was looking at a wire diagram and seen a something about a wire that's for wot. Not sure if that's true or not but I'm thinking maybe its not making connection? Anyone know how I'd go about testing that? Of course after I get done with the test drive.

 

[B1GJ4Y]

And nada. Also noticed the electric fan is kicking on and it never did before. Still not down shifts but silky smooth shifts where they should be. But no down shifts. Is there a linkage for the tranny that needs adjusted?

 

[miskywhisky]

it could be turned too far so its not reaching the WOT point.

 

[B1GJ4Y]

Ok new update. It hashifts something to do with the screw in the throttle body the one that stops it from closing at a certain point. I found turning that down and setting tps to .50 was working great. Came home and looked and the screw was hanging on by one thread but I have to throttle cable set perfect so it doesn't close all the way anyways. I read I think it was 3 mm of a gap between the screw and the Tb. I set it to that and had a 1100 rpm idle with the tps set as far down as it would go which was .90mv. I did however set it but my shifts seemed to be a tiny but looser so I did it and messed it all up. Should have left it lol. But I got it set back again to where it was but no downshifts. In the morning I'll go out and try it again. I'm 100% sure it's my throttle sensor. It needs a new one but I don't have agreed $$ right this second for one. Gonna go to a pick in pull and grab one of they got a low mileage one. Also to note sorry for the book here. Just trying to explain everything in detail so I don't miss anything important. And also by the way the throttle body valve opens all the way up and closes as it should. I cleaned it last year. It looked like Ito had never been cleaned since it rolled off the lot in 2000.

 

[B1GJ4Y]

Just to note I believe to have located the problem which is my tps is only ready about 3.6 to 3.7 volts at wot. I believe that is too low for the computer to know it is at wot.

 

[B1GJ4Y]

We'll I figured it out on my own and my suspicion was right it was the tps. After many many trial and errors I broke out the feeler guage and found the screw wain't where it's supposed to be. Completely removed the tps and put it back in and set the voltage. Downshifting great and nice firm shifting. And seems to have a little more get up to it after I found that the throttle was opening only 3/4 of the way due to slack in the cable. Though I fixed that before it was my problem. Cause it down shifted than and had some get up to it. Now it's got a little more and down shifts. Though it's got alot more low end grunt to it. I noticed it seemed a little gutless before on lowered before I fixed all this. Now time for a new distributor and timing belt. And I'll have another 180k out of this.