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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 xterra with the 3.3l v6 engine and its been intermitently leaving my son stranded when it warm,let it cool down and runs normal.ive been looking on here for others having the same problems.seems like it boiled down to the sending unit,people say its a nissan recall for this year.I just got off the phone with berlin city nissan service dept.she took my vin number and said the computer shows no recalls for that vin number.
if it is under recall like people say,how do i get someone to honor it.???
she said the recall may have all ready been done and closed or the vehicle was not one of the vehicles with a defective fuel sending unit.can someone give me some advice?
 

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Yeah, they didn't include all of 2000 for that issue, If you aren't the original owner at this point, Nissan most likely won't help you.
Buy a new one and install it yourself, pretty easy job, just don't smoke a cigarette while doing it....

Also, the recall didn't mean they replaced it, they first inspected the factory install. If it was installed correctly, the ticket was closed. Failed unit owners were reimbursed if they had changed them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have checked with all my parts stores here in maine and knobody lists one,junk yards dont even have em.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ive allready poped the cover off and i see no signs of the electrical connections cracked or corroded as most people see,it actually doesnt look that old.yesterday i replaceed the fuel filter and it was all but stopped up.ran good for me then son took it to work and it died a block away from work and wouldnt start till cold.could the filter being clogged cause the fuel pump to get overworked?now its shutting off when it gets warm?
 

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ive allready poped the cover off and i see no signs of the electrical connections cracked or corroded as most people see,it actually doesnt look that old.yesterday i replaceed the fuel filter and it was all but stopped up.ran good for me then son took it to work and it died a block away from work and wouldnt start till cold.could the filter being clogged cause the fuel pump to get overworked?now its shutting off when it gets warm?
See if you can rent a fuel pressure gauge from an auto parts store and do this check from the factory manual below.

When reconnecting fuel line, always use new clamps.
I Make sure that clamp screw does not contact adjacent
parts.
I Use a torque driver to tighten clamps.
I Use Pressure Gauge to check fuel pressure.
I Do not perform fuel pressure check with system operating.
Fuel pressure gauge may indicate false readings.
1. Release fuel pressure to zero.
2. Disconnect fuel hose between fuel filter and fuel tube (engine
side).
3. Install pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel tube.
4. Start engine and check for fuel leakage.
5. Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.
At idle speed:
With vacuum hose connected
Approximately 235 kPa (2.4 kg/cm2, 34 psi)
With vacuum hose disconnected
Approximately 294 kPa (3.0 kg/cm2, 43 psi)
If results are unsatisfactory, perform Fuel Pressure Regulator
Check,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you lost me there sir.i replaced the fuel pump,didnt see any kind of corrosion on the sending unit terminals,i also replaced the gas cap.i will see what happens now.I did the timing belt 2 months ago,new distbributer 10 k miles ago,crankshaft position sensor 3 days ago along with a fuel filter(was stopd up bad).Im running out of guesses and money.
had a code 450 in until i replaced gas cap.no other codes coming it.
 

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you lost me there sir.i replaced the fuel pump,didnt see any kind of corrosion on the sending unit terminals,i also replaced the gas cap.i will see what happens now.I did the timing belt 2 months ago,new distbributer 10 k miles ago,crankshaft position sensor 3 days ago along with a fuel filter(was stopd up bad).Im running out of guesses and money.
had a code 450 in until i replaced gas cap.no other codes coming it.
I hope you kept the parts you took off, sell them on ebay.
Before you spend any more money, go over the electrical harness on everything in the engine bay. Make sure nothing is damaged. Buy some dielectric grease, disconnect every connector, clean and apply a light coat and reconnect, I do this on all my vehicles. Bad electrical connections will act up when hot.

The fuel pressure regulator might be the gremlin. Also, Inspect your evap canister and lines if that 450 code comes back.
 

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hot running and dieing was my Distributor. if you have a cheap aftermarket one on there i would suspect that may be your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
how do you test the fuel pressure regulator and where is it located?the distributer has less than 10k miles on it so i kinda doubt thats going bad,plus it runs smooth with no stumble or stutter and i took cap off and rotor plate,stll looks like new in there with no carbon tracking or looseness what so ever.
 

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test the fuel pressure on the high pressure side. put the fuel pressure gauge on tape it to the windshield at take it for a ride but i still think your on the wrong track but that will eliminate that as an issue.

but hot dieing is electrical. weather an electric motor or an electric sensor ive never seen a hot issue ever be anything else.
but 99% of the guys on here who have had it cutting out like that was there distributor... could you barrow one for testing?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I havent ran it long sinse i replaced the fuel pump.my gut is telling me that the fuel filter was so stopped up it overworked my fuel pump making it weak when got hot and die.Also thinking it may have caused the fuel pressure reg to work harder than normal to bring pressure up when filter was clogged now maybe its tired and needs replace,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got the timing set at 15 deg btc and runs great.Ran so good i sold it last night for 2500.
Moderators can you please close this thread.Just a newbie and cant do it.thanks.id like to close the other threads i have open on the 2000 xterra also.
 
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