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2015 Xterra Pro-4X
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Ok. Dived into spark/fuel analysis.
Sparks on all the wires look good.
sparks on the distributor cap look good.
distributor cap looks fine (this part looks fairly new, I think this was replaced not too long ago).

I tested the resistance of fuel injectors 1,3,5.
1 and 5 are in spec, while 3 is 23.1ohms.This makes me think it could be either the problem or apart of the problem.
Does anyone know how I can check the resistance of fuel injects 2,4,6 without taking the manifold off? Any thoughts on 3? Should I replace that one?
Yes replace injector on 3. The resistance spec should be 11 to 13 ohms. Blackberry knows how to check the resistance at some wire harness junction location I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Alright another update.

Replaced fuel injector #3 with a good one. Test drove with no issues. Still a rough idle though. So I came back and let it idle in the garage to look under the hood. It ended up stalling again idling in the garage. I took a video of it this time, after running idle for about 10 min, it ends up stalling out.

I didn't take the intake off, but I did take a hose and ran it under the intake with the other side attached to my ear listening for vacuum leaks. I also tried attaching the end to a propane torch and running it under the intake near injectors and vacuum lines. I wasn't able to get the RPMs to change or hear any vacuum leaks.

I haven't gotten any codes related to engine performance since the crank shaft sensor.

Here is a link to a video of the engine stalling after it's been warmed up, hard starting, and some pics of the scanner once it stalled.

[EDIT] - Link updated
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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That link tells me that I need access...

Edit: Link works now! :)

Your fan clutch is really loose!

Have you checked the anti-stall pot under the throttle linkage and/or the arm that it pushes on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
That link tells me that I need access...

Edit: Link works now! :)

Your fan clutch is really loose!

Have you checked the anti-stall pot under the throttle linkage and/or the arm that it pushes on?
I’ve noticed that as well about the fan, it’s on my list once I track down this issue.

I’ve seen that area on the intake before. Is this adjustable? How so I check it? Should the arm make contact with the cylinder that drops down from the pot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The thing I can’t get my head around is that the car itself drives great until it’s come to operating temp. Then engine gets rougher as it warms and the stalling doesn’t happen until it’s up to operating temp. Something seems to be getting overheated maybe?
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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... snip ...
I’ve seen that area on the intake before. Is this adjustable? How so I check it? Should the arm make contact with the cylinder that drops down from the pot?
If you haven't already, download the free FSMs at the link below. There's a process to adjusting it and I haven't even tried to check or adjust mine yet.

Nissan Service Manuals - NICOclub
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Alright update again. I apologize for the delay.

So I decided to take a step back and read the service manuals and a few other entries on the forum. I drove the car around to warm it up and then I followed the service manual on checking the timing on the engine. I found out that the timing was pretty close to 0° instead of the 10°-12° that it should be. I had timed the engine after installing the distributor, however the engine wasn't warm so I am not sure if that is why It's not accurate. I re-timed the engine, following the service manual.

Once the engine was properly timed. I have noticed two things
1. The roughness has reduced, it feels almost back to normal.
2. It hasn't stalled on me in the last few days.

The only issue that remained was that I can't just put the key in and start it. I have to turn the key to ignition, allow the fuel system to pressurize, then I can start it. If I don't, it cranks 10-15 times then starts.

Since re-timing the engine, I have driven it for almost a week without stalling the engine. However, today new issues have arrose.
I was driving and the engine once again went into limp mode, however this time it was different. It was more of a "womp womp womp" going 20mph. I couldn't accelerate faster then that. I now have 3 codes.

- P0731
Gear 1 incorrect ratio
- P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
- P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit High

The P0101, P0103 lead me to believe that the MAF sensor is indeed bad (weird, because I tested that prior to the dizzy replacement).

Should I try to swap out the MAF with a Hitachi and see if that resolves the issue? Any thoughts on the P0731?

Video of "womp womp womp" sound. IMG_1106.MOV
 

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2015 Xterra Pro-4X
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Alright update again. I apologize for the delay.

So I decided to take a step back and read the service manuals and a few other entries on the forum. I drove the car around to warm it up and then I followed the service manual on checking the timing on the engine. I found out that the timing was pretty close to 0° instead of the 10°-12° that it should be. I had timed the engine after installing the distributor, however the engine wasn't warm so I am not sure if that is why It's not accurate. I re-timed the engine, following the service manual.

Once the engine was properly timed. I have noticed two things
1. The roughness has reduced, it feels almost back to normal.
2. It hasn't stalled on me in the last few days.

The only issue that remained was that I can't just put the key in and start it. I have to turn the key to ignition, allow the fuel system to pressurize, then I can start it. If I don't, it cranks 10-15 times then starts.

Since re-timing the engine, I have driven it for almost a week without stalling the engine. However, today new issues have arrose.
I was driving and the engine once again went into limp mode, however this time it was different. It was more of a "womp womp womp" going 20mph. I couldn't accelerate faster then that. I now have 3 codes.

- P0731
Gear 1 incorrect ratio
- P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
- P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit High

The P0101, P0103 lead me to believe that the MAF sensor is indeed bad (weird, because I tested that prior to the dizzy replacement).

Should I try to swap out the MAF with a Hitachi and see if that resolves the issue? Any thoughts on the P0731?

Video of "womp womp womp" sound. IMG_1106.MOV
Replacing the MAF with a Hitachi unit sounds like a solid next step. Have to wonder if the 731 is a secondary code resulting from the MAF distress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Replacing the MAF with a Hitachi unit sounds like a solid next step. Have to wonder if the 731 is a secondary code resulting from the MAF distress.
I am leaning towards the 731 being a secondary code caused either by the MAF or when I was reving to 1k RPMs at a stop light in nutuaral to make sure the car didn't stall on the highway, then shifting into drive. I grimaced when I did it 😬
 
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