Nissan XTerra Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this has been one big clusterf***. First off, Summit sent me the wrong spark plug wires. Apparently there is a HUGE difference in the wires for the supercharged V6 compared to the non-S/C V6. That's just a minor issue. My main issue is I can't replace the middle plug on the driver's side. No idea which one it is off the top of my head and I'm too tired and pissed off to look. #6 and the rest of them were no problem. This one is located directly below the intake to the supercharger and there are two hard lines directly above the plug. I can't even touch it with my finger much less pull the plug wire or remove the plug. Best I can tell, the entire intake assembly and throttle body has to be removed in order to access this one plug. No wonder it says in the owner's manual that if you own the supercharged model, consult your dealer to have them replaced.

Ok with all that BS aside, my question is what affect on my engine and performance will happen if I leave that one plug in? This means 5 brand new high-end plugs and one OEM plug that functions but is lightly fouled.

I need answers asap guys. I've got to be somewhere in a few hours and this is my only vehicle I'm willing to be seen in public driving. hahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
One of our Techs said you don't have to remove the S/C but there is an air horn or something like a boot that you have to remove to be able to access it.
Don't really know how 1 old plug would affect it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
If it is what I think he is talking about (14460-5S700) it is called an air inlet tube, Does not look to bad to remove.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,456 Posts
i have a problem with the same plug you do but mine isnt s/c.. lol so about a year or so ago i changed all the plugs except for that one and it seems to be fine so far..

the reason i have trouble with mine is it seams to be striped out and the plug socket i have cant get a grip on it... so i need to remove everything to get closer to it to take it out...


i dont know what could have caused it to get like that cause i am the one that installed them and i didnt strip it when i snugged it down...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmmm... not seeing anything resembling a boot. I've been searching threads and I'm now seeing just how drastically different the plumbing and locations of things in the engine bay are between the non-S/C and the S/C engines. It's insane at how tight the space is in there. I think I can get to it without removing the intake and all but my biggest concern are the two hard lines that are directly on top of the plug. They run from the throttle body to the back of the engine somewhere and their connections are small lengths of rubber hose. If I disconnect them at each end, I could remove the hard line section but the location of the two hoses on the back of the engine are in a position where I don't think I could get them hooked back up. Basically if I commit to replacing that plug, it's all or nothing. No turning back. And I just don't have the time to do it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is a diagram of the plumbing I'm talking about:



It is all of the tubing you see coming from the throttle chamber to the intake.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't think it is rubber, it should be alluminum.

Yeah it is aluminum tubing but their connections are flexible 4" lengths of hose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
What he was talking about is not in there and I have to leave work now. I posted the part number of what he was talking about in a post above. Good luck man.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys I appreciate the help. I'm going to take one more close look at it but I'm afraid it's going to require more time than I've got to spare for now. I'll just wing it and hope for the best until tomorrow maybe.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Admitted defeat. lol I'm leaving that one in for now. With this being my only vehicle, I couldn't afford to have it out of commission too long but I'm hoping to get after it this Saturday and finish it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,865 Posts
Let us know how it turns out... Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
hey drake did you ever get that plug i used 2 swivl and a 5/8 plug socket with a 6 and 3 inch ext. had to use long needle nose pliars to pull the boot up and off the plug and work it out the way then plug socket 3 inch ext swivel swivel the the 6 inch and bam you got it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,798 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Never did get it but I'll see if I can't try your technique. I can't even touch it with my finger and I just don't see how there's enough room to pull the plug wire off of the plug with all the plumbing that is on top of it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
698 Posts
Drake,

I know what you mean. Just did 4 of the 6 plugs tonight on my S/C V6 too. Since my X is a DD, I can't afford making any mistakes so I postponed #5 and #6 plug until tomorrow when I have more time. You might consider attempting to remove the boot by going in under the wires and grabbing it (using "heavy duty spark plug pliers" (autozone OEM brand) as far down as you can reach. Otherwise I'll have to buy some longer needle nose pliers. From studying it tonight, there seems to be just enough room to manipulate the wire out of the area to get to the plug. I plan to use the method mentioned by The Hammer tomorrow to get around all that aluminum plumbing. I swear the #6 plug looks alot easier than this one.

By the way I have been taking pics of my plug change along the way so once I get the job done I'll post some. You should see the abuse the old plugs took. Brutal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
698 Posts
Ok sorry to double post but I got your solution (I did mine last night with success).

There are two problems to address:

PROBLEM 1: How to remove the boot of #4 plug (the one in question):
SOLUTION:
1. Unplug wires for #2 and #6. Move them out of the way to give some room to work with. Don't lose the 2 plastic wire spacers that keep the wires running parallel.

2. Unplug #4 from the distributor. Since the boot end for #4 has a 90 degree bend in it, it seemed to help to rotate the boot 180 degrees so that the running end runs toward the firewall. To remove the boot off the plug, use long, narrow needlenose to grab the boot from front. Use your fingers to reach behind the supercharger to assist in pushing up on the boot from behind. A second set of hands helps here for additional upward force. Important: The boot comes off easier if you move it along the axis of the plug which is not exactly vertical.

3. When boot comes loose, shove it toward the firewall under the aluminum piping out of the way. You are now ready to remove the plug.

PROBLEM 2: How to remove spark plug #4:
SOLUTION:
1. Assemble your 3/8 ratchet in this order:
Spark plug socket<U-joint<3inch ext<U-joint<10inch ext<ratchet

2. IMPORTANT: Duct tape each attachment where they connect to each other so that it won't come apart when pulling up. Trust me on this.

3. Here is the trick: Insert the ratchet assembly into the square-shaped space that the aluminum piping makes with S/C intake tube almost directly over the #4 plug. Do not go under the aluminum piping from the front or else the bend will be too tight for ratchet to get leverage. The socket should guide right down onto the plug with slight bends in the u-joints. To confirm visually, if needed, try look at plug from the firewall side of the supercharger pipe to see (you will be pretty much jamming your face into the space that the hood angle and top of S/C make). No mirrors will be needed.

4. If you need to break the plug loose, swap your torque wrench or breaker bar for the ratchet.

5. Unscrew the plug completely. You can now install the new plug. Don't forget the anti-seize compound!

6. Once your new plug is in, reattach the plug wire boot. You will feel it grab or pop in place. Attach #4 wire onto ditributor #4 contact.

7. Don't forget to reattach #6 and #2 boots to their plugs and reinstall the 2 plastic wire spacers to keep installation neat. Ensure they are fully attached.

Any questions PM me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rikorii
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top