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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New HD Torsion bars installed by reputable shop. I hit a speedbump in a parking lot (faster than i should have as I didnt see it, but it shouldnt have stripped the adjustor arm, IMO).
See below pics from my findings. please give me your experienced assessment before i go back to the shop and have a discussion with the owner.
1st - should the grove on the backside of the adjustor arm fit on to the cross member?
2nd - see depth of splines (vernier caliper reads 9-10mm of engaged splines)(you can see the wear) enough??
3rd - what should the depth be? i read about the spacing off the front mount with a couple quarters. let me know if i have a justification to go back and make my case , aka bad install. also, any advice on the spacing process as I'll probably now be doing this myself. i already ordered a new adjustor arm. (112.00). thanks, guys.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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I'm not sure, but I'd be in the mood to have that discussion based on your images.

However, it always pays to makes sure your "gun" is loaded before you shoot of your mouth. So, are there any other folks on here who have pics of their torsion bars and how much of the spline is exposed?

What year and engine is yours?
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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Your other thread just like this one is here:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure, but I'd be in the mood to have that discussion based on your images.

However, it always pays to makes sure your "gun" is loaded before you shoot of your mouth. So, are there any other folks on here who have pics of their torsion bars and how much of the spline is exposed?

What year and engine is yours?
I agree, thats why i'm asking the group for context. i have my opinion but want to serve it up to the group as there is a lot of experience here. I'm a fair guy, and if I'm wrong, I'll own it.
it's an 04 3.3 4WD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found a pic online of what i feel is a correct positioning of the arm. notice backside groove rides on cross member. anyone with more experience concur? (notice mine in above pic - not in groove)

 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 3.3L AT
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Yes it should be in the groove as shown in your last post. As for how much engagement you want it even front to rear or a close as you can get.

You also want the finger and adjuster bolt to be fully inside the crossmember so it can not catch on a rock or other obstacle on the trail. In the last pic you posted, I understand it’s not your truck, a rock will rip that adjuster all to pieces should it catch a rock on a trail.
 

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I have a 2004 3.3L 4WD. This image was taken by the previous owner before I bought it, showing the front attachments:





Here is the rear from just minutes ago:











 

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To me, it looks like installing them means passing them through the rear adjuster, then to the front, because the back end of it (last 2 images) has a lip that won't let the rear adjuster slip on from that end.

Neither of my adjuster bolts extends below the cross member. So, just like @RacerXXL mentions, if yours does, it hasn't been installed correctly.
 

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These guys have you covered.

It's been a while since I messed with my torsion bars, but I do remember that I had a lot more of the spline engaged that what your photos are showing. That's the reason they have the length of spline that they do. These parts are under a lot of force at rest let alone when you go over a bump. This is increased if they have been re-indexed to give greater ride height. All splined parts need good engagement or you risk the part stripping.

As you noted, the backside of the arm in your initial photos is set too far back, which will result in the splines not being fully engaged/seated. The photo you found on the internet is correct.

The only reason I can think for your adjuster arm to be down so far is if someone re-indexed the adjuster arm on the torsion bar and / or perhaps installed a longer aftermarket adjuster bolt.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Agreed, thanks for the reply. I dissembled/reassembled the entire thing and found that upon assembly, if you leave the front torsion mount just finger tight then assemble the rear spline-adjustor arm, the rear groove will find its happy place on the crossmember....but if you tighten the front mount first it will bind everything up and you will struggle. Clean the splines, use a little anti-seize and dont rush. This could have been a lot worse.
 

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Brooklyn br0
'01XE 4x4 3.3AT Locked SAS 35's
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I realize I’m late to this conversation (as usual) but let me share my two cents and hopefully be of some help.

When using HD torsion bars our OEM anchors/adjusters becomes the “weak link” in that section our IFS (I could go on and on about “weak links” in our IFS but I digress…).

I admit being an amateur and have no proof however, despite the claims of aftermarket HD torsion bars manufactures, I do not believe they are “direct replacements”. The OEM parts within our IFS were not designed to work with the larger, increased spring rate HD TB.

I’ve seen both anchors and adjusters strip in the way yours have more than a few times in the past.

Most have happened after those parts had been heated in order to remove a “rust-welded” torsion bar out (heat weakens the part).

I’ve seen an OEM adjuster that had cracked at a weld…

There were two versions of our OEM adjusters, one was better than the other (I can go into detail if ya care).

Back in the day I always carried spares until I got a set of SLR adjusters and anchors (company is out of business) made from 4130 plate and tubing. Tig welded together and heat treated. Beefy and never failed.

Just a side note; you might want to check the cross-member the adjusters are housed in. I beat on mine so bad it bent back so that I couldn’t get the TB’s to seat properly and had to replace it…
 
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