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Here is just a rundown on what I use to detail all my cars, and the process. I went out and bought a Porter Cable Dual Action buffer (7424) and a couple sets of Sonus pads. If you are in the market for one, shop around to the different links I posted in the previous thread, some of the places have kits that come with backing plates and pads for a decent price. Lake Country also makes great pads. For the beginner I would stay away from a rotary buffer, those take some experience to use, and if you screw up it means your getting a new paint job. There are many many different types of products to use, im just explaining it with the products I use. A little research goes a long way.
To get light scratches and swirls out I have had a lot of luck using Sonus SFX1 - Restore, with a stiff abrasive pad. Apply the polish to the pad, not the car. Pick a panel, dab the polish over the area. I set my PC to about 5 for speed and make passes until the polish is used up. Passes are left to right, up and down. Never go in circles. Wipe the area clean with a microfiber cloth as you go along. Do one section at a time. If you dont see the desired results, repeat as needed. It might take a couple of times around the car.
To finish I use 3M Finesse It 2 on a polishing pad. I do the same steps above, just with a lower speed (3-4). This removes the rest of the swirls and makes the paint shine.
I seal the paint next. Waxing only lasts, at the most, 30 days. The sealants I use can last up to 6 months under the right conditions. Since I live in the Northeast with nasty winters, I swear by Klasse Sealant Glaze. There are other products out there, meguiars #21 is a little less hassle to work with than Klasse, and does the same thing.
Some tips for applying Klasse:
1. Take a new yellow foam applicator and spray it with water.
Squeeze the applicator as much as you can so that most of the water is gone. All you should have is a slightly damp applicator. This will make the SG more pliable.
2. Apply a couple of drops of SG to your applicator and apply it to a section of your car (1/3 of the hood, half of the roof, etc) in a front to back motion. Once you have covered the whole section with SG, immediately wipe off the residue with a MF towel that has been lightly misted with distilled water. Wipe off in front to back motion.
3. Repeat step 2 for every section until the whole car is done.
Notes:
- As mentioned before, wipe the SG off immediately, no dry time is necessary.
- The SG should wipe off very easily leaving behind a slick, smooth, and glossy finish.
- You should use no more than 1oz. of SG per coat on a regular size car (BMW 3 Series, Mercedes-Benz C-Class)
- Only perform step 1 one time, before applying SG to the first panel. You do NOT need to spritz your applicator with water before applying SG to each section. Once you apply SG to a couple of sections the applicator will be wet enough with SG, negating the need for more water.
-Do not use any Quick Detail to aid in removal of SG. This will / may cause the klasse SG to develop an oily haze/film down the road. I've also experienced this.
-Wait AT LEAST 24 hours before applying another coat of SG. SG needs time to cure and bond to your paint surface. I would personally wait a week. If you've driven the car ANYWHERE, then wash it before applying the next layer, or else you will just re-swirl your car.
-Put on three coats of SG, and you will be good to go.
-If you desire more warmth and depth in your paint, then apply a Pure Carnuba (No Cleaner Wax!) wax a week after you’ve applied the third layer of SG. Make sure you wash before you wax. You may experience some streaking or ghosting of the wax. I did, but it wasn’t enough to bother me. This is because SG and carnuba (any carnuba) don’t entirely get along. Consider yourself warned.
For hazy headlights, I use Mothers Plastic polish on a stiff abrasive pad, with the PC turned up to about 5. Work this just like the polish, wipe clean with a Microfiber towel and you should see a BIG difference.
For tires, wash with Westley's Bleche White to get all the grime off before applying tire wet. For the rims (alloys, ect.), if they are not painted, use an 'All Wheel' Cleaner. If they are painted, soap and water with a brush is the way to go. Acids in the cleaners will destroy the paint. It is really important to get them as clean as possible. To apply tire wet use a sponge or foam applicator pad. The little kitchen dish sponges work great. Put the tire wet of your choice (I like mothers) on to the pad and spread out evenly. Let it set for a couple minutes and wipe excess away with another clean sponge. Repeat if you want.
For trim I like Mothers Back to Black, but there are many others out there. Back to black seems to not run a lot if you apply it right. Use a foam applicator for this too. Try to apply it 'lightly'. The more you put, the more it will run.
I use Stoners Invisible glass for my windows. It is one of the best products I have used. Again, there are many out there, but make sure if you have tinted windows, the cleaner you use is ammonia free!
To get light scratches and swirls out I have had a lot of luck using Sonus SFX1 - Restore, with a stiff abrasive pad. Apply the polish to the pad, not the car. Pick a panel, dab the polish over the area. I set my PC to about 5 for speed and make passes until the polish is used up. Passes are left to right, up and down. Never go in circles. Wipe the area clean with a microfiber cloth as you go along. Do one section at a time. If you dont see the desired results, repeat as needed. It might take a couple of times around the car.
To finish I use 3M Finesse It 2 on a polishing pad. I do the same steps above, just with a lower speed (3-4). This removes the rest of the swirls and makes the paint shine.
I seal the paint next. Waxing only lasts, at the most, 30 days. The sealants I use can last up to 6 months under the right conditions. Since I live in the Northeast with nasty winters, I swear by Klasse Sealant Glaze. There are other products out there, meguiars #21 is a little less hassle to work with than Klasse, and does the same thing.
Some tips for applying Klasse:
1. Take a new yellow foam applicator and spray it with water.
Squeeze the applicator as much as you can so that most of the water is gone. All you should have is a slightly damp applicator. This will make the SG more pliable.
2. Apply a couple of drops of SG to your applicator and apply it to a section of your car (1/3 of the hood, half of the roof, etc) in a front to back motion. Once you have covered the whole section with SG, immediately wipe off the residue with a MF towel that has been lightly misted with distilled water. Wipe off in front to back motion.
3. Repeat step 2 for every section until the whole car is done.
Notes:
- As mentioned before, wipe the SG off immediately, no dry time is necessary.
- The SG should wipe off very easily leaving behind a slick, smooth, and glossy finish.
- You should use no more than 1oz. of SG per coat on a regular size car (BMW 3 Series, Mercedes-Benz C-Class)
- Only perform step 1 one time, before applying SG to the first panel. You do NOT need to spritz your applicator with water before applying SG to each section. Once you apply SG to a couple of sections the applicator will be wet enough with SG, negating the need for more water.
-Do not use any Quick Detail to aid in removal of SG. This will / may cause the klasse SG to develop an oily haze/film down the road. I've also experienced this.
-Wait AT LEAST 24 hours before applying another coat of SG. SG needs time to cure and bond to your paint surface. I would personally wait a week. If you've driven the car ANYWHERE, then wash it before applying the next layer, or else you will just re-swirl your car.
-Put on three coats of SG, and you will be good to go.
-If you desire more warmth and depth in your paint, then apply a Pure Carnuba (No Cleaner Wax!) wax a week after you’ve applied the third layer of SG. Make sure you wash before you wax. You may experience some streaking or ghosting of the wax. I did, but it wasn’t enough to bother me. This is because SG and carnuba (any carnuba) don’t entirely get along. Consider yourself warned.
For hazy headlights, I use Mothers Plastic polish on a stiff abrasive pad, with the PC turned up to about 5. Work this just like the polish, wipe clean with a Microfiber towel and you should see a BIG difference.
For tires, wash with Westley's Bleche White to get all the grime off before applying tire wet. For the rims (alloys, ect.), if they are not painted, use an 'All Wheel' Cleaner. If they are painted, soap and water with a brush is the way to go. Acids in the cleaners will destroy the paint. It is really important to get them as clean as possible. To apply tire wet use a sponge or foam applicator pad. The little kitchen dish sponges work great. Put the tire wet of your choice (I like mothers) on to the pad and spread out evenly. Let it set for a couple minutes and wipe excess away with another clean sponge. Repeat if you want.
For trim I like Mothers Back to Black, but there are many others out there. Back to black seems to not run a lot if you apply it right. Use a foam applicator for this too. Try to apply it 'lightly'. The more you put, the more it will run.
I use Stoners Invisible glass for my windows. It is one of the best products I have used. Again, there are many out there, but make sure if you have tinted windows, the cleaner you use is ammonia free!
