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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!
My name is Jacob, I purchased my first X yesterday!
However I am no stranger to the X, my brother had one and we worked on it so I know my way around the beast.
I know there is suppose to be no technical questions on this cateogry so I'm going to tell you all what I plan on doing and you let me know what you think :)


I'm deciding against the regular 1.5" shackles or the adjustable that goes up to 2 1/8".

https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981298-xterra-rear-lift-shackles.html

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981171-xterra-adjustable-lift-shackles.html

This is because I like to look of the front end being slightly down compared to stock, so when I crank the torsion bars up and get that 1.5" it won't look too leveled after the 1.5" shackles. Contemplating also installing an aftermarket torsion key that allows for even more lift, I however haven't found one for the X, maybe just have to install smaller bump stops(however i heard that gives you a rough ride).

Of course I will be going with the 2" body lift as well, no 3" as I heard its a bigger pain for that one extra inch!

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981323-xterra-2-inch-body-lift.html

I can not seem to find any other place online that looks to sell legit lifts for the xterra(1st gen that is) if anyone could point me to a possible better place to get this stuff that'd be great! especially because i see this stuff is made after an order is placed and i want to do all this by next friday!


I'm assuming an alignment would be in order after all this lifting?

I plan on replacing the shackle bushings but can only seem to find them on eBay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-1002-Pro...ash=item27dd44f973:g:m-cAAOxyc2pTZCLo&vxp=mtr is there anywhere else I could find these? Super surprised rockauto doesn't have them!:eek::eek:

Finally I plan on putting some 35's on this, I think between the 2inch lift and 1.5" in front and 2 1/8" in the back i could fit them? What do you guys think? maybe relocating the bumper brackets also may be in order?

Also I've read some people reindexing their torsion bars, is that something that would get me more lift when adjusting the key? if of course i cant find an aftermarket key that gives more lift.

I'm an original jeeper, but after my "legendary, bulletproof" 4.0 engine had catastrophic failure, TWICE. I've went to the dark side >:D>:D

Anyone else's X brake pedal go to the floor before stopping? super sensitive brakes! it was like that on my brothers also!

Thanks a million guys
Here's a pic of when i picked it up last night
and yes i'm getting new headlights!(can't seem to find smoked or them blacked out on the inside ones anywhere:( )
 

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Discussion Starter #2
anyone had luck with 35s on a first gen X? i'm reading xtreme wear on trans! also reading it makes the truck way to slow!
maybe 33s on an offset wheel would be more practical for those reasons and fitment issues as well
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgot to add I'm located in Kentucky and the beast is a 2001 xterra SE, yes it still has the privacy curtain and first aid bag >:D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
gosh i'm not very good at adding all the details in the original post lol, yall run 15inch wheels fine on these X's? i know on the second gen you can't but don't see many saying you can or can't on the first gen
 

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EVerything you said about 35s is true - it's hard on those items plus steering. You also couldn't fit them without cutting your fenders quite a bit.

The torsion bar adjusters aren't what limits the lift in front - it's the upper control arm and upper bump stop. Getting aftermarket UCAs gets you another inch and a half but that's the most you can go. You can get lower bump stops but it will be a rough ride and you may not be able to get a good alignment (too much positive camber). RE-indexing just gives you more threads to work with on the adjuster - it doesn't change a thing up front.

33s on offset wheels might still require metal cutting/bashing on the back of the front fenders.

You should read around on the indexing, re-indexing, AC UCA, and body lift threads (piece together and install) before diving into this stuff:

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16434
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so what's the point of reindexing if it doens't help with the lift?
now if i were to get aftermarket UCA's, would that in itself get the extra inch, or allow the key to be adjusted further to gain the extra inch?

the indexing page you sent shows they need to be flush with the crossmember, is that because he was just adjusting or? i thought you had to actually go up with the bolt to gain the lift
 

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so what's the point of reindexing if it doens't help with the lift?
now if i were to get aftermarket UCA's, would that in itself get the extra inch, or allow the key to be adjusted further to gain the extra inch?

the indexing page you sent shows they need to be flush with the crossmember, is that because he was just adjusting or? i thought you had to actually go up with the bolt to gain the lift
Re-indexing gives you additional threads on the bolt if you run out before you reach your desired height.

The UCAs don't do any lifting - they just allow for more cranking of the t bars. Typically if you just go up an inch or inch and a half, depending on the truck, you can just crank the adjusters and achieve the lift. But to go for the 3" of lift, or even for less depending on the truck, you need to re-index, which is just pulling the bolt/adjuster all the way out and starting it over farther down to a lower starting point, to allow for more cranking before reaching the end of the adjuster's travel.

The instructions say to tuck them in the xmember so they won't get hung up on rocks. As you tighten the bolt/nut, the adjuster arm moves upward as the tbar twists.
 

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If you know your way around the X i would suggest the $65 2" body lift (really closer to $90 w/shipping) pucks from zone offroad, hardware from fastenal. Take a look at my build thread. I have a 2" body lift with 15x8 wheels with -44 offset with 33x12.50s. I had to fab new bumper brackets, remove the plastic molding behind the front wheels and do some cutting of the front bumper and some inside the fender in front of the front door.
 

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Hello!
My name is Jacob, I purchased my first X yesterday!
However I am no stranger to the X, my brother had one and we worked on it so I know my way around the beast.
I know there is suppose to be no technical questions on this cateogry so I'm going to tell you all what I plan on doing and you let me know what you think :)


I'm deciding against the regular 1.5" shackles or the adjustable that goes up to 2 1/8".

https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981298-xterra-rear-lift-shackles.html

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981171-xterra-adjustable-lift-shackles.html

This is because I like to look of the front end being slightly down compared to stock, so when I crank the torsion bars up and get that 1.5" it won't look too leveled after the 1.5" shackles. Contemplating also installing an aftermarket torsion key that allows for even more lift, I however haven't found one for the X, maybe just have to install smaller bump stops(however i heard that gives you a rough ride).

Of course I will be going with the 2" body lift as well, no 3" as I heard its a bigger pain for that one extra inch!

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981323-xterra-2-inch-body-lift.html

I can not seem to find any other place online that looks to sell legit lifts for the xterra(1st gen that is) if anyone could point me to a possible better place to get this stuff that'd be great! especially because i see this stuff is made after an order is placed and i want to do all this by next friday!


I'm assuming an alignment would be in order after all this lifting?

I plan on replacing the shackle bushings but can only seem to find them on eBay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-1002-Pro...ash=item27dd44f973:g:m-cAAOxyc2pTZCLo&vxp=mtr is there anywhere else I could find these? Super surprised rockauto doesn't have them!:eek::eek:

Finally I plan on putting some 35's on this, I think between the 2inch lift and 1.5" in front and 2 1/8" in the back i could fit them? What do you guys think? maybe relocating the bumper brackets also may be in order?

Also I've read some people reindexing their torsion bars, is that something that would get me more lift when adjusting the key? if of course i cant find an aftermarket key that gives more lift.

I'm an original jeeper, but after my "legendary, bulletproof" 4.0 engine had catastrophic failure, TWICE. I've went to the dark side >:D>:D

Anyone else's X brake pedal go to the floor before stopping? super sensitive brakes! it was like that on my brothers also!

Thanks a million guys
Here's a pic of when i picked it up last night
and yes i'm getting new headlights!(can't seem to find smoked or them blacked out on the inside ones anywhere:( )





Congrats on the X!

I'm a bit confused by you "knowing your way around the X" while at the same time saying a bunch of stuff that indicates you don't actually know much about it/have some confusion.


Examples that might help you to clarify your plans/objectives:

1) The X, and all trucks, toyota, nissan, chevy, etc, come nose down from the factory. It improves mpg, handling, etc...and, you want it nose down you said....

...but somehow thought that taking a nose down rig, and raising both ends of it 1.5", would make it level?

Answer - Measure the rig at 4 corners, and see what you are starting with...your suspension may have sagged, and part of the lift would be correction of the rake.

2) You looked for an aftermarket t-bar key, even though the X's adjuster is built-in (It comes with it from the factory), so you don't need to buy one.

3) You did not seem to know what re-indexing is or does, or how the suspension worked.

Answer: The X's front end is held up by the t-bars. All the adjuster does is rotate the bars. The front of the bars is anchored in a splined anchor attached to the lower control arms (LCA).

When you rotate the bar so it twists the LCA DOWN, that lifts the front end at that corner. If you rotate it the other way, it lowers the front at that corner, etc.

Sometimes the bar has fatigued enough that the front end has sagged lower, and, you want to raise it up more. So you rotate the bar to restore the height.

Sometimes, doing the above, the lever inside the cross member has no room to rotate the bar ENOUGH...its hitting the cross members' inside top, can can't rotate anymore.

What you do then, is remove the bar, and re-insert it at a lower position, so that NOW you DO have enough room to rotate it enough to get the ride height you wanted.

IE: Re-indexing is analogous to when you are turning a wrench, and you take it off the bolt to reposition it for another turn. Its just taking the bar out to reposition it for more turns.

The adjuster rotating the bar is what pushes the LCA down, and, in turn, sets your ride height.

The adjuster, by itself, CAN give MORE THAN 1.5" of front lift, but, as you raise a IFS rig, the tires swing in and down, so your camber is changed.

Viewed from the front:

]------[

Normal camber, tires are mostly straight up/down


\------/

Tops of tires tipped out, as tires swing in and down. Camber is off, and you wear the outside edges of the tires prematurely, and have more squirrelly handling, etc.




So, that's why you can't go over ~ 1.5" of front lift with only t-bar adjustment...the range of adjustment to compensate can only get you a decent wheel alignment UP TO ~ that height.

Adding new Upper Control Arms (UCA) that are shaped to pull the tops of the tires more inward than stock UCA, allow for additional lift, up to a total of ~ 3", while still being able to get a decent wheel alignment.

They don't give lift, they allow alignment at higher lift heights)

--------------


Some other notes that might help:

35's are big, fitment-wise. The rears can handle it, the fronts are a bit tight...because they also steer.

If you think of the hub as where your hands grip a bat, and swing the bat...the larger the tire, the longer the bat..and the more stuff the bat hits as you swing it.

The added "bat length" in this analogy is the added radius of the tire. So, a 35" tire sticks out ~ 1" farther than a 33" tire, and ~ 2.5" farther than a 30" tire, and so forth.

If you look at your current tires, and, the room between their ends, and hard parts of your rig...you will see that room the tire has to swing through when you steer/where the tire has to clear to not hit the hard parts.

If you have 5.5" of backspacing, you will have maximum tire clearance. If you go LESS than 5.5", such as 4.5" of BS, etc...you are essentially moving the hub out more, so the tire can reach more stuff by that distance you moved it.

If you have LESS than 5.5" of BS, 6" BS for example, the inboard clearance suffers, and you hit stuff on the other side, and so forth.

If you really want 35's, I'd bite the bullet and do the 3" BL. It IS more work, but, it gives that added inch going from 33's to 35's takes away....making your trimming, which involves metal for 35's, that much easier.


If you have a 2" BL and 5.5" of BS, you only trim from plastic to clear 33's. If you have less than 5.5" of BS, you also have to get metal out of the way...and large reason many stop at 33's, or, run even smaller tires because they have less BS, but end up trimming metal anyway, etc. Some run rims with too little BS, and just trim metal to fit 33's, etc.


IE: The added clearance work do do 35's with a 2" BL instead of a 3" BL, is more work than doing the 3" BL. (unless simply removing the fenders is an acceptable solution, in which case, you can skip doing a BL completely.)

>:D


If you are going offroading, depending upon the terrain/who you wheel with, etc, the degree of modification can vary greatly. If you build up too much higher/better than your buddies you wheel with, all the trails can be boring as your rig can just roll over stuff they struggle with...and they can't go on harder trails with you.

If they are all locked and built, etc...then its you who can't keep up, and who's mods are going to be more involved/hard core.

What kind of wheeling are you going to be doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re-indexing gives you additional threads on the bolt if you run out before you reach your desired height.

The UCAs don't do any lifting - they just allow for more cranking of the t bars. Typically if you just go up an inch or inch and a half, depending on the truck, you can just crank the adjusters and achieve the lift. But to go for the 3" of lift, or even for less depending on the truck, you need to re-index, which is just pulling the bolt/adjuster all the way out and starting it over farther down to a lower starting point, to allow for more cranking before reaching the end of the adjuster's travel.

The instructions say to tuck them in the xmember so they won't get hung up on rocks. As you tighten the bolt/nut, the adjuster arm moves upward as the tbar twists.
really informative! thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you know your way around the X i would suggest the $65 2" body lift (really closer to $90 w/shipping) pucks from zone offroad, hardware from fastenal. Take a look at my build thread. I have a 2" body lift with 15x8 wheels with -44 offset with 33x12.50s. I had to fab new bumper brackets, remove the plastic molding behind the front wheels and do some cutting of the front bumper and some inside the fender in front of the front door.
my wheels will be 15x10 with same offset and tire size, did you have any SL? or only body? trying to avoid relocating bumper brackets, dont mind bashing metal and cutting plastic tho lol. ill check it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Congrats on the X!

I'm a bit confused by you "knowing your way around the X" while at the same time saying a bunch of stuff that indicates you don't actually know much about it/have some confusion.


Examples that might help you to clarify your plans/objectives:

1) The X, and all trucks, toyota, nissan, chevy, etc, come nose down from the factory. It improves mpg, handling, etc...and, you want it nose down you said....

...but somehow thought that taking a nose down rig, and raising both ends of it 1.5", would make it level?

Answer - Measure the rig at 4 corners, and see what you are starting with...your suspension may have sagged, and part of the lift would be correction of the rake.

2) You looked for an aftermarket t-bar key, even though the X's adjuster is built-in (It comes with it from the factory), so you don't need to buy one.

3) You did not seem to know what re-indexing is or does, or how the suspension worked.

Answer: The X's front end is held up by the t-bars. All the adjuster does is rotate the bars. The front of the bars is anchored in a splined anchor attached to the lower control arms (LCA).

When you rotate the bar so it twists the LCA DOWN, that lifts the front end at that corner. If you rotate it the other way, it lowers the front at that corner, etc.

Sometimes the bar has fatigued enough that the front end has sagged lower, and, you want to raise it up more. So you rotate the bar to restore the height.

Sometimes, doing the above, the lever inside the cross member has no room to rotate the bar ENOUGH...its hitting the cross members' inside top, can can't rotate anymore.

What you do then, is remove the bar, and re-insert it at a lower position, so that NOW you DO have enough room to rotate it enough to get the ride height you wanted.

IE: Re-indexing is analogous to when you are turning a wrench, and you take it off the bolt to reposition it for another turn. Its just taking the bar out to reposition it for more turns.

The adjuster rotating the bar is what pushes the LCA down, and, in turn, sets your ride height.

The adjuster, by itself, CAN give MORE THAN 1.5" of front lift, but, as you raise a IFS rig, the tires swing in and down, so your camber is changed.

Viewed from the front:

]------[

Normal camber, tires are mostly straight up/down


\------/

Tops of tires tipped out, as tires swing in and down. Camber is off, and you wear the outside edges of the tires prematurely, and have more squirrelly handling, etc.




So, that's why you can't go over ~ 1.5" of front lift with only t-bar adjustment...the range of adjustment to compensate can only get you a decent wheel alignment UP TO ~ that height.

Adding new Upper Control Arms (UCA) that are shaped to pull the tops of the tires more inward than stock UCA, allow for additional lift, up to a total of ~ 3", while still being able to get a decent wheel alignment.

They don't give lift, they allow alignment at higher lift heights)

--------------


Some other notes that might help:

35's are big, fitment-wise. The rears can handle it, the fronts are a bit tight...because they also steer.

If you think of the hub as where your hands grip a bat, and swing the bat...the larger the tire, the longer the bat..and the more stuff the bat hits as you swing it.

The added "bat length" in this analogy is the added radius of the tire. So, a 35" tire sticks out ~ 1" farther than a 33" tire, and ~ 2.5" farther than a 30" tire, and so forth.

If you look at your current tires, and, the room between their ends, and hard parts of your rig...you will see that room the tire has to swing through when you steer/where the tire has to clear to not hit the hard parts.

If you have 5.5" of backspacing, you will have maximum tire clearance. If you go LESS than 5.5", such as 4.5" of BS, etc...you are essentially moving the hub out more, so the tire can reach more stuff by that distance you moved it.

If you have LESS than 5.5" of BS, 6" BS for example, the inboard clearance suffers, and you hit stuff on the other side, and so forth.

If you really want 35's, I'd bite the bullet and do the 3" BL. It IS more work, but, it gives that added inch going from 33's to 35's takes away....making your trimming, which involves metal for 35's, that much easier.


If you have a 2" BL and 5.5" of BS, you only trim from plastic to clear 33's. If you have less than 5.5" of BS, you also have to get metal out of the way...and large reason many stop at 33's, or, run even smaller tires because they have less BS, but end up trimming metal anyway, etc. Some run rims with too little BS, and just trim metal to fit 33's, etc.


IE: The added clearance work do do 35's with a 2" BL instead of a 3" BL, is more work than doing the 3" BL. (unless simply removing the fenders is an acceptable solution, in which case, you can skip doing a BL completely.)

>:D


If you are going offroading, depending upon the terrain/who you wheel with, etc, the degree of modification can vary greatly. If you build up too much higher/better than your buddies you wheel with, all the trails can be boring as your rig can just roll over stuff they struggle with...and they can't go on harder trails with you.

If they are all locked and built, etc...then its you who can't keep up, and who's mods are going to be more involved/hard core.

What kind of wheeling are you going to be doing?
Extremely informative!! I should have been more clear lol, i know very little about IFS, remember i'm an ex jeeper lmao. i'm familiar with the engine and all top side mods. i'm a noob with IFS, i might consider the 3" BL though if it means i can run 35s, i'm really worried about the trans tho, my brother had his rebuilt and he never ran big tires or any suspension mod. i do see your confusion when i said the front would be the same as the back after the lift lol dont know what i was thinking. im wondering if a 3" body lift, 2 1/8 shackles, and new UCA and reindexing the torsion bar to get 3" in the front if i could do them 35s with ease. really want some feedback on them adjustable shackles! i may just do all that lift and keep 33s or maybe that lift except do the 2" BL and keep 33s, i wonder if i could run them without relocating bumper bracket and cutting stuff
 

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Doing just a suspension lift will not allow for larger tires. It allows for more stuffage, and the opposite(less) droop. To fit anything larger than 265/75 you need to lift the body away from the frame. No, in my case i havent touched the suspension yet(too cold). I already have my lift shackles from 4x4parts as well as torsion bars and 5100s. The metal trimming inside the fender is minor, I took off what i needed to remove with my dremel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i dig your rig man!!! it's the same look i'm going for! i'm debating replacing the torsion bars, is there really any difference in the aftermarkets? or just replacing as a preventive measure?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
done some math if anyone can chime in, my wheel has -44 offset and is 10" wide, so my backspacing is 3.75", i shouldnt have rubbing problems after lifting body a couple inches right?
 

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i dig your rig man!!! it's the same look i'm going for! i'm debating replacing the torsion bars, is there really any difference in the aftermarkets? or just replacing as a preventive measure?
Replacement torsion bars are stiffer in spring rate and will offer a firmer ride. They also help the suspension deal with added weight of bumpers, rock sliders and skid plates.
 

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Since you are going to be running larger tires you will also need an IAB (idler arm brace) to strengthen one of the weaker parts of the X. Its a very cost effective item. I got mine from 4x4parts for $65 plus shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Since you are going to be running larger tires you will also need an IAB (idler arm brace) to strengthen one of the weaker parts of the X. Its a very cost effective item. I got mine from 4x4parts for $65 plus shipping.
theyre only $40 i think now, i'm ordering the UCA from them and chose the option to include the the IAB :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
update, ordered wheels 10x15 -38, tires 33x12.50x15, uca, iab, gonna build the body lift, gonna wait on shocks until i see how my stocks ride, new headlights, shackle bushings, adjustable shackles, also going to build my own brackets for front and rear bumper(if needed)

any other suggestions?

thanks everyone for the help!
 
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