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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,
I am new here but have been referencing the site this past week in an attempt to solve a misfire / stalling problem. Seems this has been happening a lot lately and many have had success replacing things like cap & rotor, plug wires, plugs etc. I wanted to chime in with my situation cause it seems very rare though may help some folks. Possibly someone can help me too...

Problem:
Stalling at idle, stalling at mid-high RPM, stalling/misfire at low speeds both under load/no load. SES light on - codes say MAF & Knock Sensor

Solution Attempt One:
Bought new MAF - ran OK for one day, then back to the same ol' crap. Much better now but still missing, stalling every now and then. After 3rd stall SES light back on - MAF again!

Solution Attempt Two:
New Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Re Timed, Negative battery cable (had to replace anyway). Felt better, problem still happens.

The Winner IS:
While timing the car I just happened to very lightly brush the connector piece that comes from the wiring harness and plugs into the MAF. BINGO! car stalls and dies. It's the darn connector itself!

Apparently the wiring that plugs into the connector has come loose or is corroded or whatever - it's not making a steady connection. That combined with the car shaking (IE: mid - high RPM, freeway speeds cause i have Mud tires, low speeds cause the tires are cupped a bit) caused the connection to jar loose and shut down the car.

Point is - before dumping a ton of $ into it check the stupid plastic connectors first! Also, anyone have a spare wiring harness or cut harness they're willing to sell? I really only need the one connector with maybe 3-4 inches of the wiring attached.. thanks and nice to meet you all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It actually turned out that it was just the MAF itself that was bad. It really threw me off though because i had replaced the MAF with a remanufactured one that worked for about a week but turned out to be bad too... Finally got one that works and has been running strong since. My advice would be to REALLY be sure it's the connector before hacking in there and replacing it. And from there, if it were the connector, I'd say to splice in a new one, but electronics is by far NOT my stong point so keep checking with the guys on here to make sure that's not gonna ruin something!
 

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Intresting solution to common misfire problem ...

Hi everyone, I'm new to this site, but just had some recent success w/ my wife's 2000 Xterra - throwing P0325 - Knock Sensor and P0304 (cyl 4 misfire).

Read as much as I could, replaced the obvious - cap, rotor, checked wires for cracks/shorts.

Continually got got stumbling upon acceleration after engine was up to operating temp.
Nissan Svc. Mgr. suggested a rapid oil change to remove sludge (the CEl light would light up during turns...) - did 3 changes every 300 miles. NO luck.

In fact, it now began to sputter at idle - but at smooth velocity things settled down by 90% - hills and acceleration I had to 'punch' it to respond.

FINALLY, found a Nissan blog that indicated the MAF sensor should be cleaned. The guy at Advanced Auto Parts (in Hanover MA) suggested replacing the year+ old air filter too.
I was going to block test each cylinder with an ignition tester w/ each spark plug wire grounded in turn and watch the spark. His opinion was that was a crude way to test. And as I was throwing a cylinder 4 misfire (P0304) - he suggested swapping 2 wires just to potentially eliminate the wire for cyl. 4 (maybe). Wires 2 and 4 were long enuf - did it & now it was throwing P0302 (cyl2 misfire!) IT'S THE WIRE!!!.

Now for the fun/weird part. I still serviced the MAF sensor spraying it's wires with a solvent designed for that. I THEN OPENED THE AIR INTAKE FILTER HOUSING - AND FOUND A NEST: a "FUZZY" collection of cotton batting, leaves, whatnot, a few eaten nuts in the air box under the filter. The outside air intake horn has no screen/mesh to deter the little creatures, so I plan on adding one...

Cleaned all that out and sprayed the sensor, put in the new air filter. Now runs like a new car! Rapid acceleration response, no hesitation, no CEL light after I reset the codes.

Moral of the story - air and electricity are 2 of the 3 necessary components for an engine to run - fault check the simple stuff 1st before embraking on replacing more costly components.

B.T.W.: on a 2000 6 cyl. XTERRA - the last cylinder (#6) against the firewall SUCKS!!! as a perversley designed location for servicing - too narrow to easily get you hand in there and you can't see what you're doing - took as long to pull and replace that 6th cyl. wire as the other 5 wires.

Good luck to all!

Peace.

=Vytas
 
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