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Discussion Starter #1
So i'm doing the lower ball joints, and something I can't find in any previous posts is if the ball joint should be flush with the underside of the ball joint, and what to do if the ball joint is spinning a bit when trying to torque the nut to spec. I've looked at both sides before removing them and it seems the original ball joints were not completely seated into the bottom side of control arm before hand anyway, and I have the new one in as far as the old one was. Just really don't wanna fuck this up! also, i'm going to use blue loctite cuz thats all i could find, bad idea? I also have like a jb weld type stuff, so maybe i should just use that, or maybe run out to the store and get red loctite! Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So if anybody tries to help me here, got another predicament. I tightened down the ball joint nut but because the whole ball joint is rotating at this higher torque, I can’t actually get the nut back off to put on a loctite. So I’m wondering if it’s a real bad idea to leave it like this, or will it be alright? When the vehicle is actually on the ground, the weight isn’t against the nut, so I don’t see why it would be a terrible idea.
Thanks for any help! Stressing over this cuz I don’t wanna mess up any suspension components, but I also don’t see what else to do in this situation.
also I do have an impact wrench which would get that but off, but I’m not using a socket for that nut, I’m using a crows foot, so impacting ain’t an option unless I got lucky and found a 1 7/8 inch socket at the hardware store tomorrow!
 

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Prob blue will be ok, but red is a sure shot.
If the nut spins the whole assembly, is there any part of the assembly that can be anchored with vice grips etc? Try using a chisel/hammer and shock-spin the nut?
It will prob be ok as-is, but you want to make sure; your front end is supported by it!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Prob blue will be ok, but red is a sure shot.
If the nut spins the whole assembly, is there any part of the assembly that can be anchored with vice grips etc? Try using a chisel/hammer and shock-spin the nut?
It will prob be ok as-is, but you want to make sure; your front end is supported by it!
Thanks for replying! I have a feeling it’d be fine like this, but I’d really like to get some loctite on it, the vice grips are a good idea I’m gonna mess with it again in a bit. I’m either looking for someone to say I’m fine or someone to call me an idiot cuz if nobody tells me anything I’m gonna be worried about it forever!
 

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I just replaced my lower ball joints with moog ball joints. I didnt have a clamp to push the ball joint in before I tightened it, so I just let the nut pull it in. It was pretty tough to get it all the way but I got it. The little lip on the ball joint never made it to flush. I figured it was good cause the threads were sticking above the nut there on top. Gave it a bit more and I could kind of tell it hit its stopping point. So no, mine never pulled all the way flush like you would think it should. Also never put loctite on the threads. And I've changed mine twice. Didnt even think about it til this time and still forgot to use some haha. But since yours is spinning while trying to tighten it, I would say try to hold it with vice grips, get a little more torque on it, then let it ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just replaced my lower ball joints with moog ball joints. I didnt have a clamp to push the ball joint in before I tightened it, so I just let the nut pull it in. It was pretty tough to get it all the way but I got it. The little lip on the ball joint never made it to flush. I figured it was good cause the threads were sticking above the nut there on top. Gave it a bit more and I could kind of tell it hit its stopping point. So no, mine never pulled all the way flush like you would think it should. Also never put loctite on the threads. And I've changed mine twice. Didnt even think about it til this time and still forgot to use some haha. But since yours is spinning while trying to tighten it, I would say try to hold it with vice grips, get a little more torque on it, then let it ride.
I knew you’d give me some advice cuz we just talked about this stuff the other day! Good to hear tho it’s working fine without loctite, I think I just need to find a way to torque it to spec without it spinning in the housing and I’ll be confident
 

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If I remember right the lip on the bottom of the ball joint should have two flat sides on it. I was thinking maybe if theres enough clearance and vice grips are big enough, you could maybe clamp them in that way. Just a guess. And yeah man. I hope you get her tight. Definitely dont want a LBJ coming loose going down the highway
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To anybody interested, I did not get the but torqued to spec or loctited on. I just drove it down the road and back, then it didn’t move. I’ll slowly extend how far I drive on it the rest of this weekend to decide if it’s good and safe or if I should take it all apart and really set it in there. Thanks for the help! Let me know if you think I’m being an idiot :)
 

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I think you're good man. As long at the threads are sticking through the top of the nut
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ive got it marked with tape as a witness mark to check if it backs off, but I compared the other side that I haven’t installed yet and put the but all the way on and it looks like the same amount is sticking up through both, so I think I’m good on that account. The box they came in is called Original Brand, but I don’t think that’s how they were marketed on rock auto. They look identical to OE
74450
 

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Ohhh. Okay. Looks good man. I think you'll be fine. Maybe toss a cotter pin the the castle nut just to be safe
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ohhh. Okay. Looks good man. I think you'll be fine. Maybe toss a cotter pin the the castle nut just to be safe
There is one! I ain’t that dumb! Haha just at that angle it doesn’t exist I guess. They are mevotech, which aren’t anything special but they’re OE style and I don’t need too long out of them, probably get new control arms eventually because those bushings aren’t so hot, hopefully things last long enough that I can get a suspension lift put together and do a whole bunch at once up there in the future. Thanks again for the help! Just went for another drive and the nuts not moving, will do the other side soon and keep an eye on them
 

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Ohhh haha. I even checked to be sure before I said something. But I actually had the same ones from rock auto. The boot wore out within a year. So I would say definitely replace them before that man
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ohhh haha. I even checked to be sure before I said something. But I actually had the same ones from rock auto. The boot wore out within a year. So I would say definitely replace them before that man
Well ain’t that just good to hear :) hopefully I get as much time as I need before I make a decision on whether I replace the whole arm by then or not. Honestly not sure why I went with these, it’s not like me to buy something thats cheap, but I bought them several months ago so I must have been Living frugally
 

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Haha you're good man. Even once the boot busts, keep em packed with grease and they'll last. But I did the same thing man. But definitely glad I replaced it all with better quality stuff
 

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Please don’t:

put loctite on your ball joints;
Put red loctite on anything that hasn’t come loose;
Under torque ball joint nuts;
Drive around with loose ball joints;
Put no name suspension parts on any vehicle you care about;

this list is incomplete. The ball joint stud is tapered and sometimes you just need a little help getting that interference. A properly placed jack or an impact wrench can help achieve this. then tighten it to spec and install the cotter pin. Honestly loctite is stupid overkill. Even the cotter pin is an extremely rarely needed redundancy
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Please don’t:

put loctite on your ball joints;
Put red loctite on anything that hasn’t come loose;
Under torque ball joint nuts;
Drive around with loose ball joints;
Put no name suspension parts on any vehicle you care about;

this list is incomplete. The ball joint stud is tapered and sometimes you just need a little help getting that interference. A properly placed jack or an impact wrench can help achieve this. then tighten it to spec and install the cotter pin. Honestly loctite is stupid overkill. Even the cotter pin is an extremely rarely needed redundancy
With that being said, what do you think of my scenario? The nuts on all the way, which means the balljoint is all the way in, but I couldn’t torque it to spec because it was rotating in the housing when I tried to give it a lot of torque. I guess I should have torqued down the torque wrench to see how much I was actually getting it torqued on so I’d know if I was close or not. Now I’ve driven several miles up to 45mph over bumps and potholes and such and the nut hasn’t budged so I assume it’s good for now. And yeah, I went with the mevotech lower grade, honestly I bought them months ago and I assumed that I got the best I could have! But looks like I was being stingey with my money a few months ago hopefully it doesn’t bite me in the ass. Thanks for the tips Blackberry, no loctite sounds good with me
 

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If the ball joint stud in spinning, you’d either put a jack on the spindle and apply upward pressure to create more interference in its tapered seat or try to use an impact to tighten it. A lot of times the blows from the impact will turn the nut faster than the stud can spin and as soon as you get some “bite” on the ball joint stud, you’d be able to tighten it properly. I blast them on with an air gun pretty much every time possible. Many tie rod ends and ball joints don’t even assemble with a castle nut. It’ll just be a nylon lock nut with a cotterpin to prevent the nut from completely coming off in case it gets loose. That tapered seat makes a hell of a connection when that nut pulls on it, it’s just a matter of getting the stud to not spin.
 
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