[2000xterramama]

Hi everyone,
I've been referring to this site for years, but only now have created an account. Thanks for all the help in the past.

I recently took my 2000 Nissan Xterra in for repairs, and was unknowingly charged for some work which made me distrustful of the mechanic. I called him on it and he promised free repairs to the AC if I brought in the two parts needed.

My first question is this: how many hoses connect to the AC?

I had a coupon for a $49.99 AC performance check, which should have included "all connections and components, inspect and adjust all drive belts, freon available at extra cost, performance test system, and inspect hoses." When I asked why I had been charged for freon, he said that the performance check did not show anything wrong with the system (highly unlikely since the AC definitely didn't work), and so they refilled the freon, and it was only then that they saw that the A/C pressure hose was leaking.

My second question is this: Should the mechanic have caught the leak from the first inspection?

After finding an unsolicited charge for nitrogen in my tires, being charged more than double for parts (probably standard?), and not being contacted before service decisions were made (I specifically asked he do so), I'm super suspicious of this shop, but I can't afford to not take the free labor charges!

Any advice is welcomed! Thanks!

 

[Undrstm8ed]

Hi everyone,
I've been referring to this site for years, but only now have created an account. Thanks for all the help in the past.

I recently took my 2000 Nissan Xterra in for repairs, and was unknowingly charged for some work which made me distrustful of the mechanic. I called him on it and he promised free repairs to the AC if I brought in the two parts needed.

Great welcome to the site.. "Officially"

My first question is this: how many hoses connect to the AC?

Technically the system is a large loop. Your first gen has two hard lines from the compressor on the drivers side that also have soft lines crimped into them. Typically these can go bad after some time, normal wear and tear, and the way you may perform maintenance in itself. I wouldn't say they are prone to fail but they can and as I stated overall care, heat, use or even NON-use can change overall conditions and performance.

One hard line follows forward along and above the frame rail to the condenser and it has a standard DOT crimped soft line in it to help with engine flex and frame movement, the radiator like component in front of the radiator itself. That goes across the front end. Then you have the evap canister, orifice tube, on the passenger side which then pass through the interior of the vehicle for the AC systems fan and the line continues back into the engine bay across the firewall as a hard line and then there is a "second" partial soft line (rubber hose) which again is a 2.5' section of hard line affixed to the wall and the rubber allows movement between the engine and the frame/body of the vehicle itself. So in truth there is One continuous hose/pipe line if you will.

I had a coupon for a $49.99 AC performance check, which should have included "all connections and components, inspect and adjust all drive belts, freon available at extra cost, performance test system, and inspect hoses." When I asked why I had been charged for freon, he said that the performance check did not show anything wrong with the system (highly unlikely since the AC definitely didn't work), and so they refilled the freon, and it was only then that they saw that the A/C pressure hose was leaking.

Well if it past a "physical check" that means that; The compressor showed no leaks and spun freely, there were no visual leaks along the condenser or hard lines themselves, the evap canister likely showed no signs of leakage. Then they probably started up your vehicle, realized it didnt blow cold much or at all. and proceeded to do a leak down and charge as normal. All new refrigerant as its not really freon anymore, they've pretty much outlawed it in the US (didnt see where you were located at) already has a leak dye in it. So as part of the "performance test" They likely put 2-4lbs of refrigerant in the system and as they charged up the system... EVEN a pinhole leak would have revealed itself and depending on how old that leak was, it could have even ruptured further based upon pressures in the system.

Had the car just accepted the AC charge and that been it your "coupon" likely would have been applied. But since it probably pissed it all out to the atmosphere, well nothings free to waste, at $15 a lb or so...

My second question is this: Should the mechanic have caught the leak from the first inspection?

Not necessarily as I explained the layman's version of the process out above.

After finding an unsolicited charge for nitrogen in my tires, being charged more than double for parts (probably standard?), and not being contacted before service decisions were made (I specifically asked he do so), I'm super suspicious of this shop, but I can't afford to not take the free labor charges!

As you should be.. If you didnt request Nitrogen, id argue that you offroad the vehicle often and air down and air back up? why would you waste Nitrogen let alone pay for its use with that in mind..

This is where rockauto.com becomes your friend so you can save money on parts and be a smart shopper and you become self reliant in your own skills to work on your cars, maybe not so much with AC as it does take special equipment to do the job correctly that the average home mechanic doesn't have. and ALL shops should have policy of work orders being approved before performed EVEN if the customer throws the keys on the counter and says "they dont care the cost, fix it, call me when its done.."

Some of that may not be the answers you wanted to hear but.. reality sucks as they say.

BTW, you can easily find your parts relatively inexpensive shipped you your door from rock auto and save hundreds of dollars in repairs if you find a trust worthy mechanic to do the work using your parts. Sometimes making friends at a shop with a mechanic that stands out in honesty does side work and you can cut your labor costs down too.

let us know what happens.

 

[Solar03]

If you are in the DFW area, I have a guy is a great mechanic for a local city, and does work on the side. He has been working on my stuff for years and is VERY fair on price.

PM me if you are in the area and I will connect you with him.

 

[TBass]

If you are in the DFW area, I have a guy is a great mechanic for a local city, and does work on the side. He has been working on my stuff for years and is VERY fair on price.

PM me if you are in the area and I will connect you with him.

I would help him for free. I have all of the service equipment in my garage.

 

[Solar03]

I would help him for free. I have all of the service equipment in my garage.

Awesome! No clue where the member is located.