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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I realize there are a lot of headlamp questions out here already, but I didn't find my exact scenario.

Like the title says, the Driver low beam does not work, but the high beam does. The Passenger high/low beams work just fine.

So far I, one at a time:
  • replaced the driver bulb
  • checked the fuses
  • Swapped relays
  • Verified power to the socket
  • Verified resistance in the new bulb
Everything looks good except it still doesn't work on low. I also had the above checked by an experienced (but not professional) mechanic.

I haven't touched the passenger side because (a) it works and (b) it requires removing the battery.

I'll try another bulb when I get my hands one one, but I'm really at a loss here.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

David
2004 Xterra, base model.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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You've overlooked something that I believe will be the cause of your issue. I discovered it on my 2004 only after replacing the headlights (HLs) with LEDs.

The first time that I would use the turn signal (TS), I noticed my driver's HL winking momentarily. Some time later, the driver's light would take 1-2 seconds to turn on for the first time and gradually grew to being almost every time I used the HLs.

The root cause? The power for the HLs travels up and then back down the TS stalk with no relays. The HLs are controlled with 2 separate switches inside the TS stalk. Power goes up the stalk, then goes to two distinct switches that control High and Low for each bulb, then those 4 wires come down the TS stalk and go out to the HLs. Each side inside the switch is circled in blue.

It seems that your HL switch needs some attention. As I see it, you have 2 options:
  1. Replace the HL switch, which likely includes the TS but I'm not sure
  2. Use the passenger HL power to turn relays on and off, which will then power both HLs
Myself, I would opt for #2 since I know how to do that kind of stuff. Under the hood or under the dash, it won't matter, but the easier place is under the hood.

Steps to modify stock non-relay system:
  1. Install 2 relays near the battery
  2. Install 2 15A fuses from the battery, one to terminal 30 on each relay
  3. Install a wire from ground to each relay, terminal #85
  4. Cut the LOW and HIGH beam wires but leave enough room to add wire to each end. One wire will be the PLUG, the other is the FREE wire.
  5. Install a wire from the Low beam FREE wire to terminal #86 on one relay, then mark that relay as LOW BEAM
  6. Install a wire from the High beam FREE wire to terminal #86 on the other relay, then mark that relay as HIGH BEAM
  7. Install a wire from terminal #87 on the LOW beam relay to the PLUG wire on the passenger's side and the LOW wire on the driver's side
  8. Install a wire from terminal #87 on the HIGH beam relay to the PLUG wire on the passenger's side and the HIGH wire on the driver's side

Use 12 ga. wire for steps 1 and 2, 18 ga. wire for steps 3, 5, and 6, and 16 or 14 ga. wire for steps 7 and 8.

Notice the red lines under the connections in the factory wiring below. The top one is for the High Beam indicator, the bottom two go to the Vehicle Security system. The modification above should not interfere with that since you are not cutting the wires on the driver's side.

The green lines indicate where I suggest you cut the wires for the passenger's side only.

Circuit description:
  • HLs are turned on, which energizes the LOW relay
  • LOW relay turns on both LOW beams
  • TS stalk is moved to HIGH position, which energizes the HIGH relay and turns off the LOW relay
  • HIGH relay turn on both HIGH beams
  • The 2 fuses provide protected power to each relay and the HL wiring
The 2 fuses are the same size as the single stock fuse, which normally powers only 2 bulbs at a time. So with 2 fuses, if one blows out you'll at least have the other beams to drive with and not be completely dark.

As you add wires, you may want to test them as you go. This is a very basic system and there's not much that can go wrong with it.

 

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2015 Xterra Pro-4X
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You've overlooked something that I believe will be the cause of your issue. I discovered it on my 2004 only after replacing the headlights (HLs) with LEDs.

The first time that I would use the turn signal (TS), I noticed my driver's HL winking momentarily. Some time later, the driver's light would take 1-2 seconds to turn on for the first time and gradually grew to being almost every time I used the HLs.

The root cause? The power for the HLs travels up and then back down the TS stalk with no relays. The HLs are controlled with 2 separate switches inside the TS stalk. Power goes up the stalk, then goes to two distinct switches that control High and Low for each bulb, then those 4 wires come down the TS stalk and go out to the HLs. Each side inside the switch is circled in blue.

It seems that your HL switch needs some attention. As I see it, you have 2 options:
  1. Replace the HL switch, which likely includes the TS but I'm not sure
  2. Use the passenger HL power to turn relays on and off, which will then power both HLs
Myself, I would opt for #2 since I know how to do that kind of stuff. Under the hood or under the dash, it won't matter, but the easier place is under the hood.

Steps to modify stock non-relay system:
  1. Install 2 relays near the battery
  2. Install 2 15A fuses from the battery, one to terminal 30 on each relay
  3. Install a wire from ground to each relay, terminal #85
  4. Cut the LOW and HIGH beam wires but leave enough room to add wire to each end. One wire will be the PLUG, the other is the FREE wire.
  5. Install a wire from the Low beam FREE wire to terminal #86 on one relay, then mark that relay as LOW BEAM
  6. Install a wire from the High beam FREE wire to terminal #86 on the other relay, then mark that relay as HIGH BEAM
  7. Install a wire from terminal #87 on the LOW beam relay to the PLUG wire on the passenger's side and the LOW wire on the driver's side
  8. Install a wire from terminal #87 on the HIGH beam relay to the PLUG wire on the passenger's side and the HIGH wire on the driver's side

Use 12 ga. wire for steps 1 and 2, 18 ga. wire for steps 3, 5, and 6, and 16 or 14 ga. wire for steps 7 and 8.

Notice the red lines under the connections in the factory wiring below. The top one is for the High Beam indicator, the bottom two go to the Vehicle Security system. The modification above should not interfere with that since you are not cutting the wires on the driver's side.

The green lines indicate where I suggest you cut the wires for the passenger's side only.

Circuit description:
  • HLs are turned on, which energizes the LOW relay
  • LOW relay turns on both LOW beams
  • TS stalk is moved to HIGH position, which energizes the HIGH relay and turns off the LOW relay
  • HIGH relay turn on both HIGH beams
  • The 2 fuses provide protected power to each relay and the HL wiring
The 2 fuses are the same size as the single stock fuse, which normally powers only 2 bulbs at a time. So with 2 fuses, if one blows out you'll at least have the other beams to drive with and not be completely dark.

As you add wires, you may want to test them as you go. This is a very basic system and there's not much that can go wrong with it.

View attachment 81108
Is there a pre-launch checklist and count down sequence protocol?
 

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Also make sure that you have the correct bulb. There are a number of bulbs in the same format (same base, bulb etc), but are wired differently.
 

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LOL I went to a non denominational school in Canada. My son went to a Catholic school down here though (pretty much all the private schools here are Catholic and the public system is pretty bad). Nuns love me though. The mother called me in to complain about my son's hair being too long. I pointed to the giant Jesus on the Cross and said, "But I thought you wanted the kids to look to him as a role model?" There really isn't much they could say to that, though I did follow it up with, "But I'll get his hair cut this weekend."
 

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LOL I went to a non denominational school in Canada. My son went to a Catholic school down here though (pretty much all the private schools here are Catholic and the public system is pretty bad). Nuns love me though. The mother called me in to complain about my son's hair being too long. I pointed to the giant Jesus on the Cross and said, "But I thought you wanted the kids to look to him as a role model?" There really isn't much they could say to that, though I did follow it up with, "But I'll get his hair cut this weekend."
That was some quick relevant thinking on the long hair response!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also make sure that you have the correct bulb. There are a number of bulbs in the same format (same base, bulb etc), but are wired differently.
Thanks, I did check that right away, especially since simply inserting it deep enough to get the ring on was quite a challenge. The bulb(s) that I bought, by luck and research, matched the one that came out.

I had to drive it across town last night, and at some point the bulb just magically started working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks all for the advice (and entertainment!). I may ask more questions just for the latter.

I had to drive it across town last night, and at some point the bulb just magically started working. I wish I had a better explanation for how it fixed itself, but I'll just take that as is and be glad the cure didn't involve any more wiring diagrams.
 

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Thanks all for the advice (and entertainment!). I may ask more questions just for the latter.

I had to drive it across town last night, and at some point the bulb just magically started working. I wish I had a better explanation for how it fixed itself, but I'll just take that as is and be glad the cure didn't involve any more wiring diagrams.
Glad to hear you have found the light! Probably exercised the connections just enough to make that missing ground or power point.
 

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Yeah, it's quite possible that there was corrosion or the connector may have even deformed a bit from heat. If it does it again I'd consider getting some new sockets from Autozone or another store and just swap them out. I had to do that on my Frontier. The socket had deformed/melted a little due to arcing caused by corrosion. As a result the pins on the bulb just weren't making a connection. A little solder and some heat shrink tubing and they were like new.

It never hurts to put a little dab of dielectric grease in the connector to keep corrosion at bay either. Just make sure you don't get any on the bulb.
 
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