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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This, of course is a very easy task, but since it is a common mod, I figured I'd snap a few pics to make an official write up for it while I removed mine.

Introduction

The stock rear sway bar does not do a great job of anything. Most people can't detect a difference in ride quality after removal, and removing it increases articulation. The stock rear sway bar also has the potential to cause damage to the right rear shock, which is why many people choose to remove the sway bar.

If you are unsure, check out the thread that convinced me it had to go:

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=37276


Step 1: Location

Locate the rear sway bar. It is on the rear of the car going along the rear axle and has a tie rod on each end connecting the bar to the frame.



Step 2: PB Blaster!!!! If yours are really stuck, start early. Soak them, and leave them for a couple days, soak again and leave for a couple days, and have a go at them a week later with 3 really good soakings in PB Blaster. Leaving them alone for a few days seems to really help me with stuck hardware.



Step 3: PB Blast the circled bolts. Ignore the bolt with the arrow (repeat for each side):



Step 4: Remove the tie ends from each side using a 14mm socket wrench and a 14mm open end wrench. The exposed nut is easily loosened with the socket wrench. However, on the flip side of the frame bracket is a bolt head which you need to hold with the open end wrench to keep it from twisting. Look at the reference pictures below if you need clarification.



Step 5: Loosen the top bolt on the axle clamp and remove the bottom bolt on the axle clamp. Look at the reference picture below for clarification as to why one is loosened and one is removed. Do this for both sides of the sway bar.



Step 6: Admire your removed sway bar:



For reference:

Tie ends...notice that you need to hold the bolt head with an open end wrench while removing the nut with a socket wrench.



The axle brackets have a slot and a hole. The bottom bolts must be completely removed to allow the bracket hole to clear. The top bolts rest in the slot, thus they only need to be loosened.



Finally, ensure that you reinsert the bolts into the axle bracket with some anti seize compound. This just plugs the holes and threads and prevents rusting.



and LASTLY, ENJOY THE FLEX!

 

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x2 .only thing to add from the rust zone. I had to cut the end links up by the frame- they were rusted too bad for the impact to get them off. also I found it easier to get at everything by taking off the wheels.
 

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Nice write up. I've done two though and had to use a sawzall on both
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh wow...mine were pretty tightly on there when I first tried a week ago, but a few squirts of PB Blaster, letting it set over night for a few days in advance...and they came loose without too much trouble.
 

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Ya good call, I'm gonna do this too. Sweet write up, thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter #8
nice pic! looks like i could have flexed mine a bit more. I didn't really try to max out the flex though
 

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Excellent write up. Didn't need any penetrating fluid on mine. Job took about 20 minutes. Toughest part was getting the spare tire down as the bolt end is completely in the dark and a flashlight didn't seem to help.

Now on to replacing the rear shocks.
 

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Great write up. I started with the PB Blaster about a week ago, then again a few days later. Took about 15 minutes, and done.
 

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Just did mine and it was fairly challenging as fas as getting the bolts off. I soaked them in PB blaster, let them sit for a day, soaked again, sit, repeat for a week. Finally after using the back of my tire for leverage with my legs the bolts broke loose. The passenger side bracket came off easily as it was exactly the same in the write up.

The driver side however was opposite in that the bracket was upside down from the picture. So the little hook part that was on the bottom is now on top. I sat there for literally 2 minutes loosening the bolt but oddly enough it wasn't coming out. It turns, but doesn't even come out a smidgen. I tried pulling the bracket whilst loosening in hopes it would catch on a thread but no luck. Anyone have any ideas? The nut on the back is welded on so its not that but it just literally isn't coming out and I've never run into this before.
 

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Just did mine and it was fairly challenging as fas as getting the bolts off. I soaked them in PB blaster, let them sit for a day, soaked again, sit, repeat for a week. Finally after using the back of my tire for leverage with my legs the bolts broke loose. The passenger side bracket came off easily as it was exactly the same in the write up.

The driver side however was opposite in that the bracket was upside down from the picture.

So the little hook part that was on the bottom is now on top. I sat there for literally 2 minutes loosening the bolt but oddly enough it wasn't coming out. It turns, but doesn't even come out a smidgen. I tried pulling the bracket whilst loosening in hopes it would catch on a thread but no luck. Anyone have any ideas? The nut on the back is welded on so its not that but it just literally isn't coming out and I've never run into this before.
It sounds like someone put it in backwards, and stripped it.

I'd just sawzall off the critter and call it a day.

I just did this all on the 2004 I just got, and while my brackets where right side up, I did end up with the driver's side top joint unscrewing at the nut that you hold with the open ended wrench or vise grips, etc...instead of the normal nut on the threaded end you typically use a socket on.

I just sawzalled THAT rod after realizing it wasn't going to finish unthreading, and would just spin. (The blade could not get into a good position to cut off the bolt itself...so I just cut the rod below it, where the blade could fit, etc.)
 

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Thanks TJ, I'll just go ahead and do that. I almost pulled out what little hair I have trying to get it out but I prefer the power tools approach more more :-D
 

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blacked out a whole lotta stuff this weekend. wife's favorite part? the gas tank cover. cheers for that. looks awesome.
 

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removed mine today. I soaked it with pb blaster a couple days ago and used a breaker bar to loosen the bolts. I don't really notice anything different with the handling besides a little more body roll around the clover leaf turns in the on ramp.
 

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Mine was in the way when I replaced my shocks. Bolts on the end links were rusted solid. I don't have a reciprocating saw, but the cutoff wheel on my angle grinder worked fine.
 

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So I went to remove my rear sway bar today; the bolt that connects the backed off some then just keep spinning. At this point is the only option I have is to cut it off? I only have a hack saw to cut it with or I can grind it down with a high cycle grinder.
 

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So I went to remove my rear sway bar today; the bolt that connects the backed off some then just keep spinning. At this point is the only option I have is to cut it off? I only have a hack saw to cut it with or I can grind it down with a high cycle grinder.
I had to do the same thing with the left side bolt that connects the link to the frame. I had a sawzall thankfully and was able to cut it off. I'd say the quickest solution would be to just cut it right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Note that the bolt to the frame has a nut, and a bolt head. You MUST hold the bolt head with an open end wrench, and another wrench on the nut. You need two wrenches to remove the hardware!
 
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