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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First of all, many thanks to Silver Dude, couldn't have done this without him. Even with his tremendous help, this pretty much consumed me for a couple of weeks. Hopefully with this guide you can do it with a little less stress. I'll post part #s at the end.

This is a how-to for building a swing-away tire carrier for a Skid Row rear bumper found here:

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/skid-row-bare-steel-rear-bumper-p-1719.html

But the same principles should apply to other/custom bumpers.

First, either make sure you have factory frame stiffeners or buy some, either from a junkyard or from Shrock, the only 2 options I know of right now. I got mine for $70 from a junkyard, which was a bit of a ripoff, but when I was able to call in and cancel my $120 Shrock order, I was happy.

This is the Skid Row as you receive it


Courtesy of SilverDude

Courtesy of SilverDude


Mounting pieces and lower arm supprt



Now for the details on the swing arm.

Hinge

You want to use a 1" diameter bolt, around 7" long. 6.5" would have worked fine, but it left about 1/8" of threads on the lower sleeve. A nylock works well for the nut, or you can do a lock washer. For the sleeves, you want a 1" I.D. and 1.25" O.D. That means for the outside of the hinge, you want some 3/8" wall round tubing. 1.25" I.D. with 3/8" wall = 2" O.D., the same width as your swing arm so it all matches up nicely. Then drill and tap the pipe for a zerk to keep it lubed up.

Hardware:




You'll need a radius cut on the end of your swing arm to mate up to the hinge. I had a machinist do mine, but you can do it with a hole saw on the top and bottom, then cut off the sides, as SilverDude did. Keep in mind your alignment here will determine how level your arm sits.



Here's SilverDude's welded up



And mine



My final product



For the grease zerk, you'll want a lower profile one like this^^^ compared to the longer 45 degree one I showed earlier. That way it doesn't limit how far you can open the swing arm.

Latch

There are many options for the latch. SilverDude used a toggle style clamp, the big advantage of which is that it clamps the arm down tightly to the bumper, eliminating rattles.



I bought this but returned it and opted for a quick release pin. Mcmaster Carr as a ton of different sizes. I cut a piece out of some leftover tubing from the swing arm (bought 4') for the piece that the pin goes through before the arm. In the arm, I had a 1/4" plate welded into the end flush. Drilled both out to receive the pin. In the plate welded to the bumper, I attached a grommet that keeps the pin snug and rattle free.






Arm Rests

The Skid Row comes with a rest for the outer end of the arm, you just need to attach a bumpstop. It comes with one, and you really need 2 (one for behind the arm, and one for below), so I added a set of ultra low bumpstops to the order.




Then for behind the arm, I drilled and tapped the arm itself for a bumpstop, do I wouldn't have to drill the bumper. Hopefully you can see it on the end of the arm, use your imagination:



The Arm

I believe that you should take your own measurements before building your swing arm. But personally I wanted to be able to mount a 33" tire without blocking the left brake light, and without going over the top of the main part of the swing arm. This may not be as important without the clamp style latch though. But I went with 3/16" wall for everything, 2"x2" for everything except the long part of the swing arm, which I used 3x2 for. Some people go with 1/4" wall for the long swing arm, but seeing the 3/16" and feeling the weight, I'm really happy with it.

As far as the piece you mount the lug plate to, I wanted the tire snug to the arm, but with the capability to go to a wider tire. I wanted a telescoping arm, and ended up going with 2x2 for the inside of it, with 'receiver' material for the outside. I drilled a set of 1/2" holes and put a grade 8 bolt through with a nylock. If I want wider tires I just need to drill a new set of holes.





For the lug plate, you just need to get a 6 on 5.5 lug plate, either make it yourself or buy one. Then get lugs from Autozone and lug nuts from there too or a junkyard.

License Plate Mounting

The Skid Row comes with a bracket for mounting your license plate. SilverDude bent his up in a car wash and replaced it with a 1/4" thick plate.



I had my welder put a couple of beads along the weak part and weld it right to the arm. It uses one of the stock license plate lights but be careful, they are flimsy after 10 years. I broke both of mine.

Most of all, have fun with it. It's the process that makes it your own. Here's mine all finished up:







Being welded:





Part Numbers
Toggle clamp Silver Dude used: Mcmaster Carr 5135A27
Quick Disconnect I used: Mcmaster Carr 94748A308
Grommet I used: Mcmaster Carr 9307K18
Bronze sleeve bearings: Mcmaster Carr 7815K58
6.5" bolt for hinge: Mcmaster Carr 91247A929
Nylock nut for hinge bolt: Mcmaster Carr 97135A038
Up to you on grade, I also went with grade 8 nylock and grade 5 bolt so it was easier to cut.
2" hole saw: Lowes item #: 348107
Lug plate (variety of places to get them): DIY4x4: http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=spare&product_id=157
Spiderweb Gusset: http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=gusset&product_id=91

Additional Resources
SilverDude breaks down what all he bought, a little over half way down: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-28411.html

Sweet writeup of a different design on another site: http://www.dso4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4251

Steeze's first gen tire carrier build: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10653&highlight=steeze+rear+tire+carrier&page=5

Casper's Calmini bumper modification: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12186&page=2

JGBimle's build, he posts awesome drawings of his bumper if you want to build it from scratch, page 15: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?p=476581#post476581

SilverDude's build, final product on page 17: http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=7582&page=17


I'm sure I'm missing a few things... anything you need just let me know. Again, I cannot thank SilverDude enough for his endless help on this.

Cheers

Room for Improvement:

Eliminate the hammer head part opposite the lug plate; it's not necessary.

Have the quick disconnect pin vertical rather than horizontal so that in a rear impact, it will resist twisting and hitting your hatch/rear window.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice. :2cool: Like the QD pin for the arm...like to know how that holds up farther down the road as I have plans to do the same.


Edit to add: Added to the tacked DIY thread.
Cool, thanks! I'll post an update on the pin after a while. It's anodized aluminum and stainless steel with a 14k lb. breaking strength so I think it'll hold up fine, but it is getting some rust on it from the hole in the end of the arm already... not sure what to do about that, maybe some vaseline?
 

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Yea, I definitely need to learn how to weld.. haha. I particularly like the resources list and parts numbers. Excellent write up Xtacular.
 

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I like it.

:D

If I were to change anything, I'd have not had that extra hammer head facing the hatch on the tire carrier end...and, the zerk is better if its not facing what it will be likely to be hit against...

...and the end latch could be the other way to be in shear against rear impact torsion (Keeps it from twisting as much if you back the spare tire into a tree/get hit from behind, etc...)

Then again, I'm coming from the perspective of being rammed from behind twice in 2011 alone, so maybe I'm a bit more paranoid than need be.

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I like it.

:D

If I were to change anything, I'd have not had that extra hammer head facing the hatch on the tire carrier end...and, the zerk is better if its not facing what it will be likely to be hit against...

...and the end latch could be the other way to be in shear against rear impact torsion (Keeps it from twisting as much if you back the spare tire into a tree/get hit from behind, etc...)

Then again, I'm coming from the perspective of being rammed from behind twice in 2011 alone, so maybe I'm a bit more paranoid than need be.

:D
All good points! When I was planning the zerk I only had the longer one so it would have interfered with opening the arm all the way. Better yet would be oil-impregnated sleeve bearings, which Mcmaster Carr sells it turns out.

Not quite following you on the latch.

Looking forward to someone doing this and keep improving the design!
 

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The latch pin is parallel to the bumper...so the bar can rotate along its axis if you imagine a hit at the tire acting as a lever to twist it.

If the pin/bracing, or whatever, was perpendicular for example, (Rotated to a 90º different insertion point), it could resist the twisting of the bar along the bar's axis.

The hinge end for example will do this for you, as it does brace the bar against twisting.

So the latch pin could drop down through the bar from the top, or down through a hasp or latch analogous to the hinge end....or even insert through the rearward side of the bar, into the bumper, to resist twist....etc.

All the pin does in the current location/orientation, is keep the bar from swinging..which is of course also desirable. By rotating the orientation 90º, it will still keep it from swinging, but will also resist twisting forces.

BTW-

I didn't see the frame horn attachment, and as the 2000-2004's have a C-Channel end for the frame horns...rather than a closed box end, etc...you want your mount to be braced to triangulate or otherwise close/reenforce that open C section...otherwise the bumper can be as sturdy as all get out, but it will be pushed against the rear of the truck in an impact, or twist if hit or yanked in a recovery off center, etc.


I hope that all makes sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #12

The latch pin is parallel to the bumper...so the bar can rotate along its axis if you imagine a hit at the tire acting as a lever to twist it.

If the pin/bracing, or whatever, was perpendicular for example, (Rotated to a 90º different insertion point), it could resist the twisting of the bar along the bar's axis.

The hinge end for example will do this for you, as it does brace the bar against twisting.

So the latch pin could drop down through the bar from the top, or down through a hasp or latch analogous to the hinge end....or even insert through the rearward side of the bar, into the bumper, to resist twist....etc.

All the pin does in the current location/orientation, is keep the bar from swinging..which is of course also desirable. By rotating the orientation 90º, it will still keep it from swinging, but will also resist twisting forces.

BTW-

I didn't see the frame horn attachment, and as the 2000-2004's have a C-Channel end for the frame horns...rather than a closed box end, etc...you want your mount to be braced to triangulate or otherwise close/reenforce that open C section...otherwise the bumper can be as sturdy as all get out, but it will be pushed against the rear of the truck in an impact, or twist if hit or yanked in a recovery off center, etc.


I hope that all makes sense?
I gotcha, wish I would have thought of that!

For the mounting it uses the factory 3 bolts on each side plus another two on each side- the 2 rear-most bolts that hold on the frame stiffeners. Since I don't have a BL there's a spacer, then connects to a T that bolts to the bumper. Plus the frame stiffeners.


 

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Awesome Job!!
Just finished mine a bit ago too. We should have got together!

[/IMG]


I did the latch a bit differently. The swing arm is sitting low because it needs to be re-tightened and a piece of rubber goes between the seat and arm. There is also a rubber pad behind the arm mount to keep rattling down. Rain had a chance to sneak in before I got I painted.



The only thing I should have done or need to add was a stop to keep the swing arm from fully opening and hitting the quarter panel.
 

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Awesome Job!!
Just finished mine a bit ago too. We should have got together!

[/IMG]


I did the latch a bit differently. The swing arm is sitting low because it needs to be re-tightened and a piece of rubber goes between the seat and arm. There is also a rubber pad behind the arm mount to keep rattling down. Rain had a chance to sneak in before I got I painted.



The only thing I should have done or need to add was a stop to keep the swing arm from fully opening and hitting the quarter panel.
You could just add a keeper cord/retaining line to limit the swing arc...like they do for a wrangler door, etc.

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Awesome Job!!
Just finished mine a bit ago too. We should have got together!

[/IMG]


I did the latch a bit differently. The swing arm is sitting low because it needs to be re-tightened and a piece of rubber goes between the seat and arm. There is also a rubber pad behind the arm mount to keep rattling down. Rain had a chance to sneak in before I got I painted.



The only thing I should have done or need to add was a stop to keep the swing arm from fully opening and hitting the quarter panel.
Nice, did you go full custom? Doesn't quite look like a Skid Row?

My X came with a matching full size spare. I thought all the 4x4s did.

Excellent write up.
They did (maybe even the 4x2s) but I think he meant the wheel itself. I upsized 1 but got a same sized spare on the stock steelie.
 

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You could just add a keeper cord/retaining line to limit the swing arc...like they do for a wrangler door, etc.

:D
I am totally going to do that! Thanks TJ!
 

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Nice, did you go full custom? Doesn't quite look like a Skid Row?



They did (maybe even the 4x2s) but I think he meant the wheel itself. I upsized 1 but got a same sized spare on the stock steelie.
Full Custom. Designed everything in solidworks then cranked it out. I am going to add a bracket for my rotopax though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update time- loving it and it is holding up great. I had to put 1/2 turn on the hinge after everything had a chance to settle. Recently raised it for the 2" BL and it was soo nice not to have to do any measuring or drilling.




I did have to cut off the very ends of the frame stiffeners so they are flush with the end of the frame.


Kelly- the quick disconnect pin is awesome. No rattles and it's not inconvenient; I never don't open up the rear because of needing to move the arm. The grommet did wear through in one spot but I had to buy 50 so I'm not sweating it lol
 

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Finally got her finished and painted





 
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