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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Part 1
Hope you are well and ready to have some fun replacing your fuel pump. There is a How-to on here on the fuel level sending unit - check it out for further information. I'll include a little of that and then go into the fuel pump replacement.

1. Parts. I purchased a fuel pump relay, then a Delphi pump and filter bag from AutoZone. Replaced the relay to see if that was the wasn't. The dealer wanted $150 for the sending unit and they'd have to order it in. So I googled and found this on Amazon for $64.11. Next day shipped for $7 more. From the description I wasn't quite sure what I'd get but was surprised to find "Genuine Nissan Parts" on the box and Nissan labeled pieces in the bag. Great deal!
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Parts included in this kit: sending unit seal, sending unit retainer screws, orange fuel line connector, fluorescent fuel line connectors in heads. I found it too difficult to remove the old heads, so I only used the fluorescent connectors. But still good to know it was in the kit! [before you ask, the new heads cannot replace the troublesome connector in the tank. We'll get there.]
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2. Tools: 8mm ratchet, 10mm ratcheting crescent, long flathead screwdriver, wire cutters, long curved needlenose pliers. Not pictured: safety glasses, rags, container of baby wipes, gojo hand cleaner, sharp 90 degree pick. Optional: hand siphon pump and containers to hold gas from your tank. I did mine with a full tank which meant fuel on my arm up to my elbow. I don't recommend it but I'm still here to tell you about it.
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1. Relieve fuel pressure. Pull the 15A fuel pump fuse, then try to start the engine until there is no sputtering. Replace the fuse, but keep the key out of the ignition until you're all done. I know, if your fuel pump is bad, you might not think you need to do this. I've read too much of my Haynes manual.

2. Remove the rear passenger seat cushion and pull back the trunkliner material that covers this lid. I put old sheets (folded up) around the work area so that if anything dripped...yeah you get it. Remove the four 10mm screws and set them aside (the nearby cupholder works great for this.)
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3. Remove the inside/outside sealing plate - three 10mm screws. I also pulled out the body clip shown on the left so I could move the plate out of the work area. Do not try to feed the wire through the gasket. Instead, pinch the gasket and push it through the plate, then pull the plate off to the side.
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4. Clean the area. I did not take pictures of this. A few years ago I heard about the sending unit recall and took it to the dealer expecting them to replace it (the green corrosion was present.) Instead, they sprayed some black junk all over it and sent me on my way. When I got to this point, I needed to use my screwdriver to scrape the junk off, especially from the electrical connectors. The nice thing is you can blow it off the side and it'll go down to your driveway instead of to your floorboards.
Clean this area as well as you can - I used a can of baby wipes - and inspect for rust. You can't see it in this picture but I have a little light rust on the top that stopped at the rubber ring. If the rust goes further you're supposed to replace the entire tank.

5. When it's clean, you're going to disconnect the electrical connections. I used the long screwdriver to gently push down on the tabs until they click, then wiggle the connectors off.

6. Use needlenose pliers to pinch the fuel connector clips then pull the heads out of the way. You can label the heads if you want, but they won't change location or orientation, so you don't need to.
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7. Remove the 8mm screws that hold the sending unit in place. Here's what mine looked like after that. Pick up the retaining ring and clean it if you want (mine shined up pretty well.) Now it's going to get real!
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8. Here's where we deviate from the sending unit removal instructions. DO NOT disconnect anything from the sending unit! You can do this!
Look at your new sending unit so you understand the configuration of the old one. You need to find the old float foot in the tank and pull it back so it will be out of the hole (or ready to come out.) There's a weird welded bar in the tank that loves to prevent this. It's annoying but not too bad.
9. With the sending unit as far out of the hole as you can get it (which isn't really very much) reach into the tank to remove the fuel pump and its retaining bracket. Here's a picture of the retaining bracket since you won't be able to see it while you do this. The retainer is held down with four clips which connect to the retainer through the four slots, two on each side of the bracket. You can see the two on the right side in the picture. You're going to feel for the clips, push them inward (toward the center) and pull up gently on the bracket. It's pretty easy once you get your bearings.
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10. Remove the fuel pump. The bottom of the pump is connected to a filter sieve that is wedged under the fuel pump cradle. You'll have to use your hand to tug the sieve out from under the cradle. Here's a picture of the empty cradle down in the bottom of the tank. You can see the four clips that hold down the retaining bracket, as well as padding that prevents fuel pump vibration. As I look at this I kinda wish my tank were empty so I could clean all that dirt out. Oh well.
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11. Once you get the filter and sieve loose, you can work the entire sending unit assembly out of the tank. It will all fit without destroying anything so if you're in doubt, take your time and try again. Here's the entire apparatus laying on my driveway.
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12. Before you proceed: Replace the O ring! I watched a youtube video where the mechanic covered the area and ring with silicone sealant so you can do that if you want, but the ring itself is sufficient.
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Part 2

13. Disconnect the hoses and wiring harness from the sending unit. Wire harness, easy with push clip. Fuel pump hose, easy with needlenose pliers, maybe even fingers. Remaining hose: annoying. I got it off by holding the little tabs in and downward while using a small 90 degree pick to pry out the opposite tabs. Others suggest cutting off the hose and replacing it, which you're welcome to do. Use stainless hose clamps and proper rubber hose and you should be fine.
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14. Connect the retainer bracket hose, fuel pump hose, and wiring harness to the new sending unit. I replaced the orange clip with the one that came in my kit.

15. Disconnect the hose and electrical connector from the old fuel pump. I used wire cutting pliers to break off the existing clamp. Be careful not to damage the hose.
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16. Prepare the new pump. Remove the plugs from each end. Remove the plug from the new strainer, then push the strainer onto the end of the new fuel pump as shown. Push firmly but gently. Mine did not appear to be fully seated but it was very firmly connected so I'm okay with it.
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17. Apply the retaining clip that came with the strainer. I used my needlenose pliers to shove it down as far as it would go.
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18. Slip a new stainless screw clamp (mine came with the fuel pump) over the fuel pump line, then put the hose on the end of the new fuel pump. Tighten the clamp but before it's tight, make sure it's seated properly. If you try to move the clamp when it's tight, it will eat into the hose. Connect the electrical connector and you should be ready for re-insertion. Here comes the fun part!
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19. This picture may be hard to decipher, but basically, make sure the hoses are not improperly tangled and drop the fuel pump and retainer bracket into the tank. I hoped I could put the fuel pump in place before feeding in the sending unit, but the hoses aren't long enough. So,feed the temp sensor end of the sending unit down in there as well.
Once you get low enough for the float to go in, you'll need to gently bend it into the hole and under that weird welded bar inside the tank.
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20. Pull the sending unit toward you to clear as much of the hole as possible. This is where we put the pump and retainer back. Again, you won't be able to see what you're doing, so, start by feeling out where the pump cradle is in the bottom of the tank.

21. Hold the strainer and bend it a little as you feed it under the lowest end of the cradle. Once you've got that, lay the pump into the cradle. Don't worry if it doesn’t seem to sit right, that's what the retainer is for.

22. Put the retainer in place over the fuel pump. Use your fingers to feel for the clips on one of the long sides (I started with the far side) of the retainer, then hook the two holes on the clips on that side.

23. Take a deep breath and take your time! This part can be a little tedious. Smell the wonderful sweetness and power of the 87 octane fuel that's helped your x give you so much joy!

24. Now, feel for the unsecured side of the fuel pump. You want to lightly push down on the retainer while pushing the unseated clip toward the fuel pump until it clicks into place. Do the same for the remaining clip(s), give a slight tug on the fuel pump to make sure it's secure.

25. Go wash your hands! The tough stuff is pretty much done.

26. Feed the sending unit fully into the tank. Make sure the float foot points forward and the rest points directly backward. The sending unit only goes in one way and when it's in the correct direction, it will drop straight down without much force. Mine kept pushing up like it had air in it, I figure that's ok.

27. Lay the retaining ring in place and start the screws in the holes. BEFORE YOU Tighten them down, connect the fuel lines. I didn't do this and fuel started shooting out the nozzle thanks to vapor pressure differential. Learn from my mistake!
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28. Now tighten all the 8mm retainer plate screws. Then reconnect the electrical harnesses.
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29. Wedge the grommet back in the in/out cover, then re-attach the cover with the three 10mm screws.

30. Re-attach the metal trap door plate with the four 10mm screws, replace the trunkliner material, then your seat cushion...

31. Turn the key and listen for the wonderful new pump whirring... One resource I read suggested you might have to do this a couple times. I didn't.

32. Let 'er roar!
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