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HOW TO - 2002 2WD Nissan Xterra Rotor and Pad replacement procedure

19K views 67 replies 31 participants last post by  Luke_AZ 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
2002 2WD Nissan Xterra rotor and pad replacement procedure (Pics to follow)

REMOVAL
1) Set parking brake
2) Raise vehicle & support on jack stands. Failure to do this properly can lead to injury or death
3) Remove front wheels
4) Remove the upper and lower sliding pin bolts, sliding pins, and boots securing the caliper to the torque member.
5) Remove caliper
NOTE: Secure calipers so they do NOT hang from brake lines!!!
6) Remove pad retaining clips, shim cover (if equipped), shims, and brake pads
7) Remove two bolts securing brake guard to spindle assembly and remove guard
8) Remove grease cap
9) Remove two screws securing lock washer to wheel bearing locking nut
10) Using 2 pronged hub removal tool or center punch – remove locking nut
11) Remove the flat washer
12) Slide rotor off and remove outer bearing
13) Using suitable tool remove grease seal and inner bearing


INSTALLATION
15) Inspect bearings, bearing races, and rotors and replace if necessary
16) Clean bearings and rotor hubs
17) Repack bearings and rotor hub
18) Install inner bearing in hub and install NEW grease seal
19) Place new rotor back on spindle
20) Install outer bearing
21) Install the flat washer
22) Install the locking nut
23) Perform bearing preload procedure using suitable hub tool & torque wrench:
Tighten wheel bearing to 25 – 29 ft-lbs
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions to seat wheel bearing correctly
Again tighten wheel bearing lock nut to 25 – 29 ft-lbs
Turn back lock nut 45°. Align and install lock washer by loosening nut 15° or less using the two screws removed earlier
24) Install grease cap
25) Install brake guard to spindle assembly using two bolts previously removed and tighten to 101 to 130 ft-lbs
26) Remove master cylinder cap and place paper towels or rag around opening to catch excess brake fluid that may push out
27) Using large style C-clamp, CAREFULLY push caliper pistons back in. Use a flat piece of wood or the brake pad between the pistons and the clamp.
28) Apply anti-squeal grease to back of brake pads
29) Install brake pads, shim cover, shims, and retaining clips in caliper. Use a small amount of grease on the part of pad that slides back & forth in caliper
30) Install caliper and pads onto rotor assembly
31) Check for wear, cracks, rust and other damage on sliding pin bolts, sliding pins, and boots. Replace if any of the above conditions are observed.
32) Apply grease to sliding pins under rubber boot
33) Install sliding pins, boots, and sliding pin bolts and tighten pin bolts
to 17 – 22 ft-lbs
34) Adjust brake fluid to proper level if necessary
35) Install master cylinder cap
36) Pump brakes until hard and make sure there are no brake fluid leaks
37) Install wheels and tighten lug nuts to proper torque
38) Lower vehicle and test drive

Hub & Rotor Assembly


Rotor & Brake Guard Assembly


Exploded View Assembly
 
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#2 ·
Good job!! Plan on making one for the rears :)
 
#4 ·
No problem. I'll try and put something in there before the weekend. Really busy at work right now! :)

If anyone has some pics to volunteer for the write up it would be greatly appreciated!
 
#5 ·
Diagrams added for clarity. No actual pics yet.
 
#6 ·
dezurtrat said:
No problem. I'll try and put something in there before the weekend. Really busy at work right now! :)

If anyone has some pics to volunteer for the write up it would be greatly appreciated!
If you are talking about the write up for the rears that would be awesome!! I need to get my rears done and rear brakes always scare me lol
 
#9 ·
You can use a center punch and hammer to loosen it but to tighten it you need a special locking nut tool. I need to find the part number for you.
 
#13 ·
William, call me as soon as you get this, and I will walk you through it step by step

719-640-3790
 
#16 ·
It's different because you don't have the hubs on the 2wd version. I think there is a write up somewhere on the 4x4. I'll try and find it.
 
#19 ·
Kyxterra, I doubt you will find one specific to the xterra. See the tool above. I basically bought one similar or that exact one and then hammered in the tabs to fit the xterra.

Hammer gently as you can crack them and break 'em off. Go to any parts store and you should be able to find one.
 
#21 ·
Well, you can knock it loose with a punch and hammer. This is what I did the first time around.

Putting it back on is more tricky. I had done allot of brakes and had a feel for the correct torque.

I then reset it the next weekend when I got the tool and could use a torque wrench.

I would order on online in your case.

Again, it will be too big so you will have to hammer in the tabs.
 
#22 ·
alright i feel like an idiot. with the picture of the tool i was trying to remove the the nut by hitting the wrong area by the looks of the tool. i was trying to hit it loose in the square notches in front of the nut and not actually trying to remove the nut. i put the punch in one of the unthreaded hole and it backed right off no trouble at all. that is the tip that got me through the step was on another website i read the instruction to place the punch in an unthreaded hole. i am an idiot and i wonder if that is the problem that other are having by actually trying to remove the axle that the nut threads onto.
 
#24 ·
Yea, that's a great. write up that I have book marked but its the 4WD version which is a bit different from the 2WD version this thread discusses so be aware of that.
 
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