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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm very well informed of how the breaks work but it seems there several ways to bleed them. My woman is on a buissness trip and my truck is on jack stands and I'm stuck home for the weekend help lol!!! I didn't have much time to begin with but this is the first time I've ever had problems with my breaks. I started hearing a grindING and immediately stoped driving got some pads after work and got a ride home my pads where metal to metal just about. Rotor held up well though I caught it just in time as there are no gouges or anything.

Problem is is that the new pads where super thick and required me to push the caliper all the way down and not knowing it I removed the break line and let all the fluid come out. Not sure if I drained my mater cyl but I'll find that out tommorow morning. Incase it was drained can someone give me a write up on how to do this.

And if anyway possible a way to bleed the breaks without a vacuum pump? I was thinking just kind of remove the bolt at the caliper that attached the break line and push some fluid out a few times and screwing it back in but I only see the vacuum fitting not bleeding screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I fell victim to wrong information. After finding those nipples had bolts behind them that where covered in a layer of mud they didn't appear to my eye until I scracthed it with a knife. Got a brake bleeder kit finished it took it for a spin and all appears fine.
 

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Heads up for next time. When I did mine I used a c clamp to push back the piston all the way. Take the top off the cylinder to let the fluid back. It has to go back because you're pushing the piston in. Hope this helps for next time. Glad everything worked this time
 
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