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Hello all,

About 2 months ago I decided to pull my throttle body off and clean it. After I cleaned it out I had a high idle speed (around 1400 rpms). Silly me I started messing with the adjustment screws near the throttle cables to try to get the idle down. I have since corrected that and moved the screws back to their original location. Before removing the throttle body my idle speed was good. I also ended up having to replace the HVAC lines under the Air Intake and Throttle body, but I cannot seem to get a clamp on the back side of the hose that goes under the Air Intake.

Any thoughts as to what is causing the high idle? I know I got all the vacuum lines plugged back in.

Is it possible the little plunger device on the throttle body (located to the lower right of the air intake) is stuck and keeping the idle high? I am not even sure what that part is called.

Any thoughts would be most appreciated!!

Thank you
 

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any check engine light codes? also what year and engine?
 

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Check the fast idle. You know, the part with the wax pellet. If the arm on it is bent past 90 degrees it could be forcing high rpm even after warm up. This video shows it t about 5:30
 
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Hello all,

About 2 months ago I decided to pull my throttle body off and clean it. After I cleaned it out I had a high idle speed (around 1400 rpms). Silly me I started messing with the adjustment screws near the throttle cables to try to get the idle down. I have since corrected that and moved the screws back to their original location. Before removing the throttle body my idle speed was good. I also ended up having to replace the HVAC lines under the Air Intake and Throttle body, but I cannot seem to get a clamp on the back side of the hose that goes under the Air Intake.

Any thoughts as to what is causing the high idle? I know I got all the vacuum lines plugged back in.

Is it possible the little plunger device on the throttle body (located to the lower right of the air intake) is stuck and keeping the idle high? I am not even sure what that part is called.

Any thoughts would be most appreciated!!

Thank you
 

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I'm not sure where to post this....maybe somebody can watch the video and please help! :( 2000 xterra XE 175k miles, misfiring popcorn sounds over 60/70mph. Will not misfire under those speeds. Some extra commentary is in the description section on YouTube. Thank you all!!!
Video here -->
 

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I'm not sure where to post this....maybe somebody can watch the video and please help! :( 2000 xterra XE 175k miles, misfiring popcorn sounds over 60/70mph. Will not misfire under those speeds. Some extra commentary is in the description section on YouTube. Thank you all!!!
Video here -->
yours sounds like a failing distribuor, as you can still run. pup the cap off your distributor and check for metal shavings
 

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Thank you!! I've gone through probably 4 distributor caps in the last 2 years...my shop was using off brand for the first 3 and after misc issues with each leaving me stranded, I said can't we use an original OEM part? They apparently used an OEM part now but it's still doing this. You think it's still the cap?
 

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Thank you!! I've gone through probably 4 distributor caps in the last 2 years...my shop was using off brand for the first 3 and after misc issues with each leaving me stranded, I said can't we use an original OEM part? They apparently used an OEM part now but it's still doing this. You think it's still the cap?
not the cap the actual distributor itself is failing, take the cap off, look for metal shavings, if you see none take the rotor off and look down the shaft if you see shavings the bearing for the distributor is eating itself, very common on 1st gen 3.3s. the fact they ahve replaced the cap 4 times in 2 years, presumably for the same issue leads me to believe its a larger issue than the brand of cap being used, that and i used off brand caps on my 00 x and 98 pathfinder without issues, the cap isnt a huge deal as long as the posts are in good shape and the rotor can make good solid contact, might be worth checking the part of the rotor with metal on it for wear as well.
 

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Thanks a ton, all of the advice and guidance is much appreciated!! I'm not sure I can take the cap off and if I did, i probably wouldn't know how to put it back on lol. I'm handy, but not too car handy, barely know enough to post on this forum (you can tell from my cap comment, I thought the whole thing was called a cap haha). If I brought it back to the shop and told them money was no object, fix XYZ, what would you tell them i want replaced? How is it the distributor eating itself. If they saw shavings, wouldn't they have replaced whatever part keeps wearing the distributor away causing the shavings? After 2 series of shavings, I would hope they didnt just keep up the madness, no? Or is the next fix very expensive? Thank you!!!
 

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Thanks a ton, all of the advice and guidance is much appreciated!! I'm not sure I can take the cap off and if I did, i probably wouldn't know how to put it back on lol. I'm handy, but not too car handy, barely know enough to post on this forum (you can tell from my cap comment, I thought the whole thing was called a cap haha). If I brought it back to the shop and told them money was no object, fix XYZ, what would you tell them i want replaced? How is it the distributor eating itself. If they saw shavings, wouldn't they have replaced whatever part keeps wearing the distributor away causing the shavings? After 2 series of shavings, I would hope they didnt just keep up the madness, no? Or is the next fix very expensive? Thank you!!!
its easy, if you have a factory or good aftermarket cap they should be labeled 1-6 with the plug numbers each wire goes to then simply use some masking tape or duct tape and a sharpie or dry erase marker and label each wire and remove then 2 phillips head screws 1 on each side removes the cap 1 phillips holds the rotor. if you bring it back to a shop tell them the distributors are a common failure point on these model trucks and you would like to have the whole distributor checked and replaced if needed. see the pics at the top of this thread: http://forums.nicoclub.com/pulsating-rpm-t556826.html for an idea of what happens when the distributor bearing fails, his was pretty bad to put red powder all over it, usually you only see it after removing the rotor. basically tell them yyou need the entire distributor assembly tested and replaced if they find it has an issue
 

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Sardis, I'm assuming that you have fixed this now, but Satito is spot on. I had identical circumstances and my fast idle arm was bent. I don't know how cleaning the throttle body bends it, but apparently it can.

If it's bent, reach in there with a big offset pliers and make it 90°. Instant fix, can do it while running.
 

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