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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone, I'm about to get into an endeavor of epic proportions... I bought a 2005 SE a couple of weeks ago, and not 15 miles down the road it began knocking and overheating, my oil pressure fluctuated wildly depending on engine speed, y'all know the drill. When I test drove it, everything seemed fine. I called the dealer, "Hey dude, we've got a problem." He was actually more cooperative than I expected, signing over $1500 worth of warranty coverage on the powertrain and paying to have it towed on to my house. According to state law he can't do much else, and I'm too much of a nice guy to do anything crazy. I am contacting the previous owner (they left his old registration papers in the glovebox), and if he says they knew it had a problem, I'll look at my options to try to get some compensation...
Anyway, I got it off the road as soon as I noticed an issue, but not soon enough it seems. I hope to God I didn't warp or crack anything, but the oil is all banana milkshake and water is basically coming out of the head/block connection. I can't afford to pay some mechanic $3000+ to do the work, so I'm diving in. I do have a workable knowledge of engines in general, but I have never done anything close to this extensive. Still, I have confidence, the right tools, the FSM and a big ol' brain to work with, but I'm wondering if there's anything in particular to make damn sure I don't screw up. Anything the manual doesn't mention. Anything that someone with experience in this has found themselves saying "it would've be so much easier if I'd known that before". Any tips or tricks or advice or "don't even think about it"?

Wish me luck.
 

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03 XE AT w/JDM VG + SC, AC UCA & BL
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If the cylinder heads are warped, they allow for little to no machining of the deck surface. Have a professional check the heads once removed. Without knowing what else could be wrong it’s hard to give more advice other than good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the cylinder heads are warped, they allow for little to no machining of the deck surface. Have a professional check the heads once removed. Without knowing what else could be wrong it’s hard to give more advice other than good luck
Absolutely, thanks! I know the tolerance is 0.03 for the heads, and that it's easy to over-machine them. I'll definitely have them looked at when I get that far. I'm already bookmarking pages with heads for sale, haha. Hopefully the local LKQ will have some good stuff if I need it. On a pretty tight budget, but everything is going really smoothly thus far.
 

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03 XE AT w/JDM VG + SC, AC UCA & BL
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Get your numbers right before you even start wrenching. Your maximum allowed surface distortion is 0.004 inches and if the distortion exceeds this amount then the service manual says the maximum amount that can be machined is zero. This is found on page EM-94.
If your machinist insists they can be cut, don’t come around here asking why you have valve timing or cam sensor codes when you’re done.
Very few of these engines that get head gaskets actually survive for any reasonable amount of time.
 

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2004 Xterra XE 4WD Auto 3.3L NA V6
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Get your numbers right before you even start wrenching. Your maximum allowed surface distortion is 0.004 inches and if the distortion exceeds this amount then the service manual says the maximum amount that can be machined is zero. This is found on page EM-94.
If your machinist insists they can be cut, don’t come around here asking why you have valve timing or cam sensor codes when you’re done.
Very few of these engines that get head gaskets actually survive for any reasonable amount of time.
@FearinLoathin
Listen to @Blackberry! He knows his stuff. I can't add anything to what has already been shared, but I can double down on what he says and take the winnings to the bank.
 

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Hello everybody, I'm going to get into an undertaking that would blow the mind of any average person... I purchased a 2005 SE two or three weeks prior, and not 15 miles not too far off it started thumping and overheating, my oil pressure changed fiercely relying upon motor speed, you all know the drill. At the point when I test drove it, everything appeared all good.
 

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Hey everyone, I'm about to get into an endeavor of epic proportions... I bought a 2005 SE a couple of weeks ago, and not 15 miles down the road it began knocking and overheating, my oil pressure fluctuated wildly depending on engine speed, y'all know the drill. When I test drove it, everything seemed fine. I called the dealer, "Hey dude, we've got a problem." He was actually more cooperative than I expected, signing over $1500 worth of warranty coverage on the powertrain and paying to have it towed on to my house. According to state law he can't do much else, and I'm too much of a nice guy to do anything crazy. I am contacting the previous owner (they left his old registration papers in the glovebox), and if he says they knew it had a problem, I'll look at my options to try to get some compensation...
Anyway, I got it off the road as soon as I noticed an issue, but not soon enough it seems. I hope to God I didn't warp or crack anything, but the oil is all banana milkshake and water is basically coming out of the head/block connection. I can't afford to pay some mechanic $3000+ to do the work, so I'm diving in. I do have a workable knowledge of engines in general, but I have never done anything close to this extensive. Still, I have confidence, the right tools, the FSM and a big ol' brain to work with, but I'm wondering if there's anything in particular to make damn sure I don't screw up. Anything the manual doesn't mention. Anything that someone with experience in this has found themselves saying "it would've be so much easier if I'd known that before". Any tips or tricks or advice or "don't even think about it"?

Wish me luck.
If you're doing it yourself, it's a big job. Prepare for work, and check a Youtube video on the job first!
 
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