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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

So several months ago I put new cv axles in my 03 4x4 v6. I did the passenger side first and put it back together just as I had taken it out, but on the drivers side I stumbled a bit and put that hub back together without keeping everything in order. The main part that I wasn't sure of was actually the washer that goes between the cv axle and the hub, it has a slight indentation on one side and i wasn't sure how to put it back on. That being said, everything runs smoothly in drive, and the 4x4 seems to engage just fine, but it seems the axle isn't properly seated/in all of the way. If i grab the axle with my hand, there is a noticeable movement of it pulling out of the hub, not one that I can see but one that I can feel and hear. As I've been driving on it more, there is a more noticeable loud click type noise in the hub when I come down on that drivers side hard, sort of like the axle has gotten even looser in the hub and its popping in and out more.

On top of this, when going in reverse, I'm not sure if it's only if i turn the wheel one way or not, there is a loud click/pop from that hub that almost sounds like its engaging or disengaging 4wd, then it does it again when I go into drive and the pop won't occur again until i come down on that side hard or go into reverse again.

I plan on taking that hub apart tomorrow and getting in there to look at things, but I'm not sure what to look for. Is anyone aware of this being a sign that the autolocking hub is failing? Has anyone had this issue and knows how to troubleshoot it? Worst comes to worst, I take apart the passenger side again and see exactly how it is, then put both sides back together based on that.

One more thing, which I don't think should cause this, is that the camber on the side with the issue is positive. I honestly don't know how to say if it's very positive or just slightly, because I don't have much experience, but to the naked eye it is positive. I need an alignment pretty bad but I wanna run these old tires a bit longer and just get new tires and an alignment a few more months down the line.

Thanks for the help!
 

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I just did my rotors, calipers and pads the other week, which includes removal of the hub and bearings. Here is a schematic from mitchell1 software, (used at the shop I work at) and I verified everything here is accurate.
74330

I can say getting the retaining clip (c-clip, snap ring) back in and seated properly was a bit tight. I recommend installing all parts as shown and then when re-installing the c-clip pull the axle towards you. Make sure you have your wheel bearing lock nut tight and install the 2 phillips screws accordingly, post pics if you have any more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, I took it apart and put it back together and didn’t notice anything. The snap ring was a bitch to get on again for some reason, like I couldn’t pull the axle through enough, but eventually I got it, I think. But I’m gonna go back in tomorrow and give it a better look. I put it back together and drove it and it seemed the same as before, making a lot of clicking noise at slow left turns, a loud click coming down after going over a speed bump, clicking loud when first going into reverse and then going forward in drive. Other than the noise though, it drives fine, cruising for a half hour over 70mph and it seems the bearings and everything about that hub are fine, but the damn noise is loud like some metal is being snapped!
I started to notice it when braking hard too, it does a little pop, but I changed my pads a couple weeks ago and so I’ll investigate the calipers tomorrow and make sure they’re together fine.

I’m damn confused but thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also idk how to describe the sound, I bet I’m being confusing. It’s like a very loud click that almost sounds like a piece of metal is snapping under force, but then I got check and I can’t find anything that looks like it’s damaged in any way
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When turning left at full lock it does do it, but I only notice it when going slow, probably because I only turn to full lock when going slow. It only recently started to make the noise when going over bumps and stuff, but the noise at full lock has been there for quite a while
 

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Discussion Starter #9
More than likely the full lock noise is just the steering stops rubbing. Grease them and it will go away.
I don’t disagree with this entirely, because there was a sort of bumpiness at full turn that has since gone away since greasing those. But this louder noise is there and getting worse. I will grease them tomorrow and I’ll try to get a video and see if I can get that noise captured well
 

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The main part that I wasn't sure of was actually the washer that goes between the cv axle and the hub, it has a slight indentation on one side and i wasn't sure how to put it back on.
This^ I'll bet the copper thrust washer was put on backwards. I've done it and your result sounds familiar. The "indentation" is against the axle. When you place it that way you'll see it's flush.
When it's flush it will be easier to pull through and get the c-clip on and off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This^ I'll bet the copper thrust washer was put on backwards. I've done it and your result sounds familiar. The "indentation" is against the axle. When you place it that way you'll see it's flush.
When it's flush it will be easier to pull through and get the c-clip on and off.
Thank you! I’ll be taking it apart this weekend, I only undid the hub so I didn’t get to that but you are probably completely right. Hopefully I haven’t damaged it too much, cuz it sounds like it’s been getting crunched every time I go in reverse! Haha
 

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I will note the wheel bearing lock nut needs to be tightened to just over 60 ft lbs. Spin the hub/rotor forward and backwards half a dozen times during and after tightening (bearings obviously packed with high temp grease), then loosen the lock nut to 0 ft lbs. Now tighten the wheel bearing lock nut snug (I forget the torque, but it was in inch lbs, not foot, so not super tight or you could prematurely burn out your bearings) then you have 15 degrees in either tightening or loosening to match up the 2 phillips screws to the threaded holes behind the lock nut. The fact you are unsure if your snap ring is properly seated leads me to believe your wheel bearing lock nut is not torqued down to spec. I just did mine as stated in my previous reply, and I did not tighten it all the way, checked a few days later when I was doing rear brakes and noticed ALOT of play in that bearing. When the lock nut is torqued to spec, the snap ring will undoubtedly seat properly.
Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will note the wheel bearing lock nut needs to be tightened to just over 60 ft lbs. Spin the hub/rotor forward and backwards half a dozen times during and after tightening (bearings obviously packed with high temp grease), then loosen the lock nut to 0 ft lbs. Now tighten the wheel bearing lock nut snug (I forget the torque, but it was in inch lbs, not foot, so not super tight or you could prematurely burn out your bearings) then you have 15 degrees in either tightening or loosening to match up the 2 phillips screws to the threaded holes behind the lock nut. The fact you are unsure if your snap ring is properly seated leads me to believe your wheel bearing lock nut is not torqued down to spec. I just did mine as stated in my previous reply, and I did not tighten it all the way, checked a few days later when I was doing rear brakes and noticed ALOT of play in that bearing. When the lock nut is torqued to spec, the snap ring will undoubtedly seat properly.
Hope that helps.
I have had some concern about properly torquing things back together, I’m not sure where to get the proper tool to do that. But that’s good to know that that may be the reason I had trouble with the snap ring. When I take things apart again this weekend, or tomorrow if I can get off work on time, I’ll try and do a proper torque of that lock nut as best as I can. I should repack or replace my bearings too, but I may not find time for that now. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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From old "Florida Xtreme Xterra" guide:



The Directions from the service manual are:
Tighten wheel bearing lock-nut with tool to 58 - 72 ft-lb.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Loosen wheel bearing lock nut so that the torque becomes 0 ft-lb.
Tighten wheel bearing lock nut with tool to 4.3 - 13 in-lb.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Tighten wheel bearing to 4.3 - 13 in-lb

Check your auto hub, I believe that is what would have been damaged.
Good luck.

edit; I have the tool if you want to borrow it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
From old "Florida Xtreme Xterra" guide:



The Directions from the service manual are:
Tighten wheel bearing lock-nut with tool to 58 - 72 ft-lb.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Loosen wheel bearing lock nut so that the torque becomes 0 ft-lb.
Tighten wheel bearing lock nut with tool to 4.3 - 13 in-lb.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Tighten wheel bearing to 4.3 - 13 in-lb

Check your auto hub, I believe that is what would have been damaged.
Good luck.

edit; I have the tool if you want to borrow it.
You in Atlanta!? I’ll do all this tomorrow, probably just use two screwdrivers and torque by hand as hard as I can! Then torque it nice and easy the second and third time. Thanks for all the info!
 

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You can use a larger needle nose pliers to tighten the bearing lock nut, you really gotta crank it though. Place the tips of the pliers in 2 of the holes, just be careful not to damage the threads.
 

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I was told this tool from NAPA works:
BK 7769179
I can’t swear to it but was told it works. The place I got mine is no longer in business so the number isn’t good
 

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2000 Xterra XE 4x4 V6
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The socket I have on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-4170-Bearing-Locknut/dp/B00LSGDEI0

Description from my original order, note it fits multiple vehichles.

Use with 1/2" drive tools. No. Lugs: 2 Applications: 1988-up Isuzu Trooper, Rodeo, Amigo & p/u's. 1989-up '89 - up Honda Passport & Jeep J20 p/u's with Dana 60 axle; Also fits Nissan Pathfinder, Nissan Xterra, Frontier pick up
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the help everyone! So I flipped that washer and the sound remains. The snap ring was a lot easier to get on, but was acting a little funny so I may need a new one that hasn’t been taking off and put on so many times. I will get a video of the sound soon, I keep forgetting, just tried and of course the sound was not there! But I bet it’ll be back. Oh and for everyone to laugh at me, when hammering the knuckle off the upper ball joint, I ripped right through my ABS sensor, lucky me. Just wondering, would a cheap ABS sensor do the job? Should I spend a hundred bucks on a good one, or should I solder this one back together, it just looks like a wire or two in there. Thanks!
 
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